Drop link repalcement

J

jp.oog

Guest
Hopefully someone can help guide me in how to replace drop links.

I have searched other posts that claim how easy it is (assuming no seized nuts) does the suspension need the load removed to replace?

Is there a top and bottom?

Why is one union on the new drop links fixed but the other free moving?

Many thanks
 
1. Jack up the car, use Axel stands for safety.
2. Remove Wheels.
3. Undo top and bottom nuts you may need to use a torque key to stop the center rotating.
4. Remove drop link.

It is that simple!

I did some on a MK4 SEAT IBIZA (same setup). when I tested the car they made a huge difference, totally transformed the car!

Darren
 
Here's a nice clean shot of mine,

picture.php


Well it will be alot easier jacked up and wheel off, as you can see one end is fixed to the strut and the other to the ARB

Phil
 
Just to add to this thread, you must have the front axel off the ground entirely - both wheels up at once, otherwise the ARB will be torqued and you'll really struggle.

Cheers,

Mike
 
jp.oog said:
Hopefully someone can help guide me in how to replace drop links.

I have searched other posts that claim how easy it is (assuming no seized nuts) does the suspension need the load removed to replace?

Is there a top and bottom?

Why is one union on the new drop links fixed but the other free moving?

Many thanks
Click to expand...

If you jack the car up, raise both wheels by the same ammount otherwise the roll bar twists and loads up the drop links. This makes it very difficult to remove / replace the links.
Clean all the road muck out of the recesses in the threaded ends so the torx bit engages fully - essential if the nuts are partially seized. In severe cases an angle grinder or nut splitter may be needed

There is no top and bottom - both ends are the same.

Both ball joint end unions should have similar resistance to movement. If one end is 'sloppy' then it may rattle.

Cheers Spike
 
Many thanks for all the tips and advice. Its many years since i got the spanners out but the faith has not gone.
Still find it strange that the ARB is trailing the wheels, only ever experienced leading. But thats not the problem as its the new collared design.
Any ideas what torque to tighten the nuts too?
 
All done and dusted now. Just taken for a test drive and all clonking has gone!
 
Come to think of it mine goes over the drive shafts too
 
john-wingnut said:
The bar end pieces curve over the drive shaft, not under it.

John
Click to expand...

Yes just been looking at the A1 at work similar set up and yes thats over the top, but as i said earlier it was this way round when we took it off so didn't question it. This has been like this now for getting on nearly two years now and it doesn't drive any different but i will be swapping it round when i get the time, trying to get through 5000 cars before mid April from the start of march, so 11 hrs a day 6 days and turning out over 150 cars a day .

Cheers Phil
 
Is it not an age of vehicle issue? Mine is a 51 plate but has the later collard ARB fitted some time ago.
If its some consilation grim the photo of your front suspension was very useful to me.
 
Mine is also the other way round, but I think that if the ARB doesn't touch anything when moving, then it's OK.
One way round or the other, that's the same leverage distance, and as the bar is circular, it's the same stiffness.

That's quite a "big" and boring job to take the ARB out and re-fit it the other way.
 
Got it done at work this morning, we had a bit of time so got it on the ramp and swapped it over, on the way home the ride was no different but its done now.

Fbi i was thinking that and as i've had it like that for nearly 2 years i was going to leave but thought just in case so i swapped it

Phil
 
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