Egr valve adaptation

Davidkinton

Davidkinton

Member
Looking for advice on egr valves. I’m on my second none genuine egr valve and I’ve not been able to get either of them to adapt. I’ve checked the part number and they are the same as the genuine pierburg valve. The genuine valve will adapt with no problem. Am I doing something wrong. I’ve followed the instructions on the Ross tech wiki. Any help or advice would be appreciated.


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Hi David,

Where such questions are concerned, it's always helpful to state which engine you've got.

Cheers,

Tom
 
Another obvious question are you sure they are for the AUA engine and not some generic rubbish? VCDS Lite or full fat?
 
PlasticMac said:
The obvious, but not, necessarily correct, thought is that the non OEM part is not even OEM spec.
Mac.
Click to expand...

Yes I think that may be the case. I may have to buy a pierburg replacement, but mine is an all metal Pierburg and the new replacements seem to be part plastic. I hope they are compatible.


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audifan said:
Another obvious question are you sure they are for the AUA engine and not some generic rubbish? VCDS Lite or full fat?
Click to expand...

They are for the Aua. Meant to be a replacement for the Pierburg OEM. VCDS Lite is the version I’m using but I’ve paid for greater functionality such as basic adaptation using measuring blocs 074.


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Davidkinton said:
Yes I think that may be the case. I may have to buy a pierburg replacement, but mine is an all metal Pierburg and the new replacements seem to be part plastic. I hope they are compatible.
Click to expand...

Is this what you're after?

EGR Valve For VW Seat Skoda Audi:FABIA I 1,BORA,POLO,GOLF IV 4,CADDY II 2 for sale

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steve_c said:
Is this what you're after?

EGR Valve For VW Seat Skoda Audi:FABIA I 1,BORA,POLO,GOLF IV 4,CADDY II 2 for sale

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for EGR Valve For VW Seat Skoda Audi:FABIA I 1,BORA,POLO,GOLF IV 4,CADDY II 2 at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products!
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Click to expand...

Might fit but the part number on the original is 036 131 503 R whereas that finishes with the suffix M.


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The last character indicates a later version, R is later version than M. If the rest of the number is the same, they should be backwards compatible.
Worth giving your local Seat, Skoda, VW dealer a shout, to get their price I'd think.
Mac
Mac.
 
PlasticMac said:
The last character indicates a later version, R is later version than M. If the rest of the number is the same, they should be backwards compatible.
Worth giving your local Seat, Skoda, VW dealer a shout, to get their price I'd think.
Mac
Mac.
Click to expand...

Called Crewe Audi for a price and they quoted £200, so I think I’ll buy a Pierburg from Amazon at £85. Hopefully this will adapt properly. Thanks for all the help.


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Things to learn every day. EGR valve adaptation. http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Exhaust_Gas_Recirculation_(EGR)_Valve_Adaptation

My 1.4 petrol AUA has given me fault codes for too high EGR flow or too lean mixture ( 16555 / P0171 ) and it has been very annoying. When I have deleted the fault code the tick over / idle has been jerky or hunting between 600 and 800 rpm. (Disconnecting the EGR valve improves idle but of course gave an EML. ) Connecting the EGR valve again and after a little while when running with poor idle, the check engine comes on and idle stabilizes.

EGR valve nice and clean. Looking for leaks by pressurizing an inlet hose slightly while blocking the throttle body revealed nothing. Then I learnt about EGR adaptation. I ran the procedure above and I noted how the low voltage changed for one position. Now idle is stable and no EML, what a blessing.

By the way. As I made an oil change at the same time I noted how poor the threads in the oil pan / carter had become. VW says a new oil plug should be used every time. No chance that that would solve my issue. Rescue is to use a M15 x 1.5 tap and gently re-cut the original M14 x 1.5 thread as the M15 tap easily finds the way into the old threads, no drilling needed. After plenty of cleaning and flushing a new M15 x 1.5 plug was fitted.
 
Not really resurrecting this as I have fixed my problem, but thought I'd share the experience. I had the EML light on dashboard and 16786 - EGR System: Excessive Flow P0402 - 35-00 popped up in VCDS-Lite but otherwise no symptoms. No change after a few days of daily commute. I then tried deleting the fault code but it came back during the test drive and I now had the same symptoms as Hans described in his post above (hunting idle, stabilising after a while). I then tried re-adapting the EGR valve but fairly certain I did not follow correct procedure - forgot to press Basic Settings after pressing Go (so no adaptation took place, but I now think it would not have made a difference in my case). Deleted the fault code again - this was a mistake. Whilst the fault code is logged, ECU does not attempt to control the EGR valve, but after it is deleted the ECU tries to use the EGR valve again. In my case the EGR valve now got stuck in even more open position than before (EML back and the excessive flow fault code). Symptoms - more of the hunting idle that stabilised a minute or so after starting from cold, diffucult to start with engine warm followed by the hunting idle again, occasionally engine dying when idling in neutral during gear change, ECP light on dashboard coming and going. Made for an interesting commute to work. Anyway followed the excellent advice on this forum and replaced today the original Pierburg part with the newer Pierburg PIE7.28248.17.0 from GSF, re-adapted with VCDS-Lite, deleted the fault code again and everything is back to normal again. Btw the original part was confirmed to be stuck open - could clearly see light through it.
1.4 petrol BBY btw
 
EGR and TB were the first restoration things needing to be done on our AUA engined car 5 years ago. Owing to budget at the time both were replaced with Amazon random-branded specials. EGR had failed completely and TB was full of tar. I was able to adapt both new EGR and new TB using the Xtools VAG401 - and I need to stress that I was much less experienced with an A2 then than I am now, and our AUA was in a properly poor state with fluctuating idle, heavy fuel use, regular engine lights and so on. Subsequently new lambda, plugs, cords, coil pack etc., and in those cases with the best I could source (mostly Bosch / NTK), but the no-name TB/EGR are still working well (knocking wood furiously!).
 
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