@audifan thanks for this - much appreciated, will give it a try…. We were so chuffed to get the rear light working after finding this thread ?Door open sensor is inside the lock and not easy to get at. If the door open switch is not working there will be no DIS warning for that door being open.
You MAY be able to get the switch working by cleaning, but if the switch has failed or the cam that operates it has an issue then the microswitch and or lock assembly will need to be replaced and that involves removing all the door trim, the aluminium plate the winder motor, disconnecting the outer handle unpluging the loom then removing the entire upper half of the door that contains the glass.
To TRY to clean it spray WD40 into the rearmost gap of the black lock assembly just behind the part that rotates to lock the door to the hoop on the chassis. The open microswitch is directly below this. Spray the WD40 for about 5 seconds then using a screwdriver close the door lock open it using the handle and repeat this locking and opening a few times, then repeat the WD40 flush followed by the locking opening cycle another say 6 times. If it is covered in dirt and grease the cleaning may work. Clean up the mess created and check for DIS and interior lights.
Thanks again - much appreciated ???As said if the problem is only dirt and grease then the cleaning should work if it is the microswitch or the coating on the cam broken up then a replacement lock assembly will be required. Once the old one is out it is quicker to just fit the replacement. Job looks daunting but it it not that hard and only a few tools required, but as the upper half of the door needs to be removed make sure the car is undercover and until the door rebuilt secure. If you discover you need or want to replace the rear lock give me a shout for more instructions.
Be warned that if the car does not know that the rear right door is open there is a high chance that you may lock the keys inside the car if you unlock it and only open the rear door to get something on the back seat and place the keys on the seat while doing so. The car will automatically relock and when you close the rear door your keys are trapped, so make sure that you have a second key available that will open the car either on the remote or the drivers door lock using the key blade.
Thanks Matt, great advice and fixed within minutes as described.Hello.
I noticed recently that when opening any of the doors, only the front interior lights illuminated. The rear lights would illuminate only when the front light was set to be always on using the rocker switch, which is different to other cars and certainly does not seem conventional. I began attempting a repair by checking the wiring to the front light, but all seemed well. I then removed the rear light by gently prising it out, it is held in by 4 spring clips and simply pulls out from the headlining. Again, the wiring to the light seemed fine, leading me to the possibility of the rear light unit itself being faulty.
I examined the joints on the PCB on the back of the unit with a magnifying glass to see a small ring around a soldered joint, which seemed to be a dry joint. I have circled the offending joint on the following photo.
View attachment 17183
To fix this, I heated the joint with a soldering iron and added a little solder. I then put the light back in the car, and it worked exactly as it should. When a door is opened, both the front and rear interior lights now illuminate. I checked our other A2 as well, just out of curiosity, and I found that this rear light was faulty in the same way, and that the exact same solder joint had failed! Both cars had the same problem. I also repaired this, which also now too works perfectly.
I'm not sure if this joint is a known weakness as a forum search revealed nothing, but it's a simple fix if you have a spare 5 minutes!
Regards,
Matt.
Thank you for this, I had exactly the same dry joint problem on my rear interior light unit. And also on the reserve unit from breakers car. Now both work as they should.Hello.
I noticed recently that when opening any of the doors, only the front interior lights illuminated. The rear lights would illuminate only when the front light was set to be always on using the rocker switch, which is different to other cars and certainly does not seem conventional. I began attempting a repair by checking the wiring to the front light, but all seemed well. I then removed the rear light by gently prising it out, it is held in by 4 spring clips and simply pulls out from the headlining. Again, the wiring to the light seemed fine, leading me to the possibility of the rear light unit itself being faulty.
I examined the joints on the PCB on the back of the unit with a magnifying glass to see a small ring around a soldered joint, which seemed to be a dry joint. I have circled the offending joint on the following photo.
View attachment 17183
To fix this, I heated the joint with a soldering iron and added a little solder. I then put the light back in the car, and it worked exactly as it should. When a door is opened, both the front and rear interior lights now illuminate. I checked our other A2 as well, just out of curiosity, and I found that this rear light was faulty in the same way, and that the exact same solder joint had failed! Both cars had the same problem. I also repaired this, which also now too works perfectly.
I'm not sure if this joint is a known weakness as a forum search revealed nothing, but it's a simple fix if you have a spare 5 minutes!
Regards,
Matt.
Before taking it all apart just waggle the cable connecting to the micro switch, on mine it was the loom, replaced it & all good.I also have now stumpled upon this thread, and think this is exactly what inflicts my car too- I have gone through many light switch presses, and still wonder at the reason for my drivers-side map light working under certain conditions on my replacement OSS console pack, but the rear unit only works as previously stated, so out comes the soldering iron! What I love is that these cars are basically so good, its the little niggles that are left to fix (famous last words..)
Thanks Ami- I simply removed the rear lamp unit and soldered this joint in question. The whole process took 10mins and problem solved!Before taking it all apart just waggle the cable connecting to the micro switch, on mine it was the loom, replaced it & all good.
Good job, resultThanks Ami- I simply removed the rear lamp unit and soldered this joint in question. The whole process took 10mins and problem solved!