Fog-light project

audifan

A2OC Donor
I say pipes, they can be built in mouldings. When Audi made the fog lights they are built in, so as long as the modification has not removed them and you have not accidentally blocked them with sealant should still "auto clear". Do you mean Cerium Oxide?. I have also been told the paste that dentists use when polishing teeth works very well.
 

DJ 190

A2OC Donor
. Do you mean Cerium Oxide?.
Yes, that's it! I had a very scratched windscreen a few Year's ago. (from a worm wiper-blade) I was informed by "Autoglass" that nothing could be done about it. Well they would, wouldn't they ... So I purchased 3 grades of Cerium Oxide on Ebay and a good polishing machine. It took a few hours of work, but the end result was a perfect screen with no marks whatsoever! So in the "memory-box" THAT went! I can't find that powder here, though ....
So as I've said, glass CAN be fully restored! Again, I can say that those DRL's are superb! It's been a really good project! I'm currently trying to find suitable DRL's to fit into the side mirror pods and LED arrays to fit into the rear-light clusters.

David
 

audifan

A2OC Donor
Indicators in the mirrors as per later Audi's would bring the car up to date, then replace the wing repeaters with bigger A2OC badges even 3D printed ones!. Not sure it is exactly the same stuff but does appear to be some Cerium Oxide on ebay now. I assume the Cerium Oxide will also take the rust stain out of the wind screen made by the wiper arm, is it too aggressive for restoring headlights?. Dangerous stuff Cerium Oxide do not inhale or get in your eyes. Keep us up to date, your pictures are great would love to see LED tail lights and "walking indicators"

Graham.
 

Jellybean

Admin Team
I'm really not aware of any pipes forming the construction of the Fog-light? I understand the main thrust of what you're intimating, though. That is to the effect that these fog-lights rely on ventilation to remain clear. I'll be going to the garage/workshop to make an assessment as to what is required. I do know that the front glass surfaces need to be polished to remove fine imperfections and regain clarity. That is possible, even with glass ... I've just forgot the material (powder) that is used (and it's not Jewelers rouge)

David
David, bear in mind the heat output of leds vs filament bulbs. If the reduction of condensate relies on ventilation or air circulation the this will be FAR less with leds.

On the subject of rear lights I am working on pimping a pair with leds!

Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk
 

DJ 190

A2OC Donor
There is only one obvious route for air into the fog-light and that's a small opening at the top. I could do a little experimentation and find a way too seal and pressurise the front face. Then by submerging it, I could determine any missed routes into the fog-light. I envisage using a plastic bag, air pipe and rubber bands?The mad Scientist? :) I'll let you decide on that!

David
 

ajsellors

A2OC Donor
I'm really not aware of any pipes forming the construction of the Fog-light? I understand the main thrust of what you're intimating, though. That is to the effect that these fog-lights rely on ventilation to remain clear. I'll be going to the garage/workshop to make an assessment as to what is required. I do know that the front glass surfaces need to be polished to remove fine imperfections and regain clarity. That is possible, even with glass ... I've just forgot the material (powder) that is used (and it's not Jewelers rouge)

David
If you look from the back just above where the peg sticks out you will see a rectangular opening. That's the top of the ventilation system. The plastic is molded with an internal "pipe" from there to a hole inside near the bottom by the glass. Its quite subtle and I didn't spot what it was until I leak tested my fog lights with a bucket of water.

I had a problem with my DRLs filling with water. I think the problem was caused by a combination of me moving the mounting to a lower position and my bumper being warped at the bottom and the under tray being damaged. Although I had sealed all round the join, the new position was allowing water to be splashed into the vent.

My fix which has been 100% successful was to attach pipes to the vent holes in a position to ensure that no water can get in:


regards

Andrew
 

neo

A2OC Donor
But did you fit them inside the existing fog-lights?

David
Sorry about the delay, a looot of work lately...
No, they are fixed in plastic pipe, that is then mounted with a couple of L brackets onto the original cover, but open, without any weather protection.
Also found out that this was back in 2015, so these have been working for 4 years, no change in colour, no visible loss in lumen output.
Here's a photo before filler and paint.
IMAG0648b.jpg


Just saw your photos, looks good!
Have you solved the condensation issue?
 

DJ 190

A2OC Donor
Sorry about the delay, a looot of work lately...
No, they are fixed in plastic pipe, that is then mounted with a couple of L brackets onto the original cover, but open, without any weather protection.
Also found out that this was back in 2015, so these have been working for 4 years, no change in colour, no visible loss in lumen output.
Here's a photo before filler and paint.
View attachment 56267

Just saw your photos, looks good!
Have you solved the condensation issue?
No, it's a bit of a mystery! After some warm, dry weather, it did vanish from both lights. Now it's returned to the driver's side-light! I've studied the design and there is a single path for venting, on the side. I haven't blocked/sealed it, so I can't understand why I'm still getting condensation inside the glass? I'm otherwise SO impressed with these DRL's! They really look original and the light output is uniform and superb! It has got to be a plus for safety reasons! .... and all for £5.64!

David
 

DJ 190

A2OC Donor
Following on from my earlier comments in this thread regarding my interest in (a) fitting indicators into the side door mirrors and (b) Converting the rear-light units to full LED arrays, here's some of my ideas :-
For the fitting of the indicators into the body of the side mirrors, I need to source some indicators that follow the contour of the mirror pod AND, more importantly. are relatively shallow. i.e., they don't penetrate too far into the body of the mirror. A search of Ebay shows quite a few available at nominal cost, but it's hard to be certain that they'd be suitable without actually having them to hand.
Now, regarding the converting of the rear-light clusters to LED illumination. These units are fully bonded together, front to rear. They COULD be cut apart with a "Dremel" and I've examined them and I'm fairly confident it could be done. However, there IS another way! (I think!) Small rectangular openings could be made to allow thin plastic boards to be inserted which have the appropriate arrays of LED's mounted upon them. I use old scrap number plates as a suitable material for those boards. When the boards are secured in place and the feed-wires fed back through the openings, then those openings are easily sealed. Again, there are quite a few types of LED available on Ebay in all the required colours.
So if anyone could suggest suitable indicator modules that would fit the side-mirrors, then that would be a great help!

David
 

A2Steve

A2OC Donor
If its any help, the tail lights can definately be split without damage to either part. When I was looking to fit a reverse camera to Frankie I trialled one through the tail light. It can be split using a Stanley knife around the seal or as you gave already said David, using a dremel.
 

DJ 190

A2OC Donor
If its any help, the tail lights can definitely be split without damage to either part.
Well, that's FAR more elegant that my alternative method! It would also allow for the firm mounting of my array-boards and better routing of the wiring. I've got a few rear-lights to work on .... the source? Well, A2Steve, of course!
Oh, I did get those 20 mm wheel spacers for the pepperpots, that you'd recommended .... WITH an anti-theft bolt for each wheel. I got a good saving by contacting them directly, by the way .....
David
 

DJ 190

A2OC Donor
If its any help, the tail lights can definitely be split without damage to either part.
Well Steve, if you HAVE managed to do that, I think that you deserve a medal! :) Yes, it IS probably possible, but WOW!, it would be some task! I think that a better way to do this IS my idea to cut access rectangles into the sides. I've now thought of a way to locate and support the LED board at opposite side. A series of self-tapping screws would be driven through to protrude and provide location for the boards. i.e., above and below the board with the screw-points blunted. I need to source suitable LED's and then move forward with this project. It's all in my head .... just need to put it into practice!

David
 
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