With the MOT due I thought I'd better tackle the ARB bush issue.
Parts required
1 x 8Z0 411 305M Roll bar
2 x 6Q0 411 314L Bushes
2 x N 102 613 02 Nuts (Connect ARB to Droplinks)
4 x N 101 389 02 ARB bolts (hold bushes to the ARB)
4 x N 104 162 01 Bolts (Steering box to subframe)
4 x N 104 921 01 Subframe bolts
You might also consider the pendulum bolt. This is the tie bar which connects the engine to the subframe.
Support the car on its front jacking points and remove the wheels.
Remove nuts from droplinks
Remove ARB bolts. Lifting the driveshafts/wheel hubs enables you to get a socket on the bolts.
Remove the bolts holding the steering box the subframe.
The subframe bolts are next. Before removing them place a trolley jack underneath so that it can be lowered gently once the bolts are removed. Audi use locating pins to ensure that the subframe goes back in th same position. However some also require you to pay for an alignment check so whats the point. I actually found that having lowered the subframe you are left with 4 clean and shiny areas where the subframe attaches to the body. When replacing the subframe these act as locators - If you can see any clean metal once replaced then its not gone back in the same place!
The ARB was remove rearward by first turning it over the driveshatfs.
Replacement is reverse of removal.
Tightening torques
Anti-roll bar to suspension brackett Use new bolts. 20 Nm + 90°
Coupling rod to anti-roll bar 40 Nm
Steering box to subframet Use new bolts. 50 Nm + 90°
Subframe to bodyt Use new bolts. 70 Nm + 90°
Pendulum support to retaining platet Use new bolt. 50 Nm + 90°
You might want a mate to help with the subframe re-attachment to hold the subframe on the clean bits of metalwork while you tighten the bolts. I had to wedge myself underneath and use my shoulder!.
Test drive went fine and it passed the MOT yesterday.
I'm going to get the alignment checked once I'm near somewhere that is half competent - probably take it to Stealth. Having seen some of the poor stealer work close up now, it won't be going back to them. (While underneath spotted two broken hose brackets, a univeral joint boot spitting out grease and and small oil leak - funny how they didn't mention any of these, either at the last service or when they recently changed the NSF wheel bearing, but they did want to change discs & pads - again! - oh yeh there is nothing wrong with them I've had a look)
I used powerflex bushes instead of the standard ones. Although they don't list them for the A2 they are the same as the 02-05 Polo. Part number is PFF85-603-16.
I'll try and attach some pics.
Cheers
Jonathan
1st photo Old ARB cracked sleeve
2nd photo shows all the parts (please excuse the socks! not required but will keep feet warm))
3rd photo shows powerflex bushes compared to VAG parts
4th photo ARB detail comparison. Newer one on top
Update 11 Feb 2018 - pics found on old pc! - ahh how I miss those socks
Parts required
1 x 8Z0 411 305M Roll bar
2 x 6Q0 411 314L Bushes
2 x N 102 613 02 Nuts (Connect ARB to Droplinks)
4 x N 101 389 02 ARB bolts (hold bushes to the ARB)
4 x N 104 162 01 Bolts (Steering box to subframe)
4 x N 104 921 01 Subframe bolts
You might also consider the pendulum bolt. This is the tie bar which connects the engine to the subframe.
Support the car on its front jacking points and remove the wheels.
Remove nuts from droplinks
Remove ARB bolts. Lifting the driveshafts/wheel hubs enables you to get a socket on the bolts.
Remove the bolts holding the steering box the subframe.
The subframe bolts are next. Before removing them place a trolley jack underneath so that it can be lowered gently once the bolts are removed. Audi use locating pins to ensure that the subframe goes back in th same position. However some also require you to pay for an alignment check so whats the point. I actually found that having lowered the subframe you are left with 4 clean and shiny areas where the subframe attaches to the body. When replacing the subframe these act as locators - If you can see any clean metal once replaced then its not gone back in the same place!
The ARB was remove rearward by first turning it over the driveshatfs.
Replacement is reverse of removal.
Tightening torques
Anti-roll bar to suspension brackett Use new bolts. 20 Nm + 90°
Coupling rod to anti-roll bar 40 Nm
Steering box to subframet Use new bolts. 50 Nm + 90°
Subframe to bodyt Use new bolts. 70 Nm + 90°
Pendulum support to retaining platet Use new bolt. 50 Nm + 90°
You might want a mate to help with the subframe re-attachment to hold the subframe on the clean bits of metalwork while you tighten the bolts. I had to wedge myself underneath and use my shoulder!.
Test drive went fine and it passed the MOT yesterday.
I'm going to get the alignment checked once I'm near somewhere that is half competent - probably take it to Stealth. Having seen some of the poor stealer work close up now, it won't be going back to them. (While underneath spotted two broken hose brackets, a univeral joint boot spitting out grease and and small oil leak - funny how they didn't mention any of these, either at the last service or when they recently changed the NSF wheel bearing, but they did want to change discs & pads - again! - oh yeh there is nothing wrong with them I've had a look)
I used powerflex bushes instead of the standard ones. Although they don't list them for the A2 they are the same as the 02-05 Polo. Part number is PFF85-603-16.
I'll try and attach some pics.
Cheers
Jonathan
1st photo Old ARB cracked sleeve
2nd photo shows all the parts (please excuse the socks! not required but will keep feet warm))
3rd photo shows powerflex bushes compared to VAG parts
4th photo ARB detail comparison. Newer one on top
Update 11 Feb 2018 - pics found on old pc! - ahh how I miss those socks
Attachments
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