depronman
A2OC Donor
Run a litre of Molly purge the it
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liqui moly. Diesel purge. About £15 a litre on eBay. Best £15 you are likely to spend on your tdi A2
Paul
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Run a litre of Molly purge the it
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Hi Paul, do you add to tank or connect at filter or under bonnet? Not sure I can be motivated to take it all apart again but would have a crack under the bonnet.liqui moly. Diesel purge. About £15 a litre on eBay. Best £15 you are likely to spend on your tdi A2
Paul
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Fantastic I'll look at doing that. Why the filter change BTW?Depends what you are trying to clean
I remove the pipes from / to the tank at the drivers side of the cylinder head front
Then connect a pipe and in to a litre glass container. Put the purge in there then start and run engine at different revs until about ⅓ of the purge is used up. You have run neat purge through the injectors and tandem pump which will get them really clean
Reconnect the tank pipes and with the bear minimum of diesel in the tank add the remains of the purge
Then start up and go for a 25 mile hard drive exercise the entire Rev range trying to hold different engine revs for 30 seconds or so
The main idea is to circulate the relatively concentrated purge around the tank fuel lines tandem pump and injectors
Run as much as you dare of this diesel/purge mix through the engine and when you are at the lowest possible amount of fuel in the tank change the filter for a new one and fill up with shell super diesel
I found doing the above on numerous A2’s resulted in quieter engine more power and urgency to pick its feet up and better fuel economy
Paul
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great how toI changed my fuel filter in my Audi A2 end of 2001. It is located near my left rear wheel. I took of the metal waffle cover. After that i saw the metal filter. I took off the clamp that holds it in place(one bolt removal) . I lowered the filter down. There are 4 pipes going in the filter. 2 of them are connected together and you can't make a mistake with them. Over those 2 pipes connected together There is a pin that holds them. You have to take off the pin and disatach the pipes. Then i dissatached the other two pipes. They are holding to the filter with clamps. After that you put the New filter, i filled it up with diesel (not sure if its nesecery) Atach the separated hoses with the clamps to the filter, then the two pipes connected together you have to push them down to the filter real Hard and attach the pin. I will attach some photos.
I see good idea, thank you.Always a good idea to replace the fuel filter after any intensive fuel treatment as there could be debris that was released from the fuel system that is now in the filter. Filters are not expensive so worth changing the filter before the treatment then again shortly after, say before the second tank of fuel after the treatment. You could very well be surprised just how much fuel gets returned to the tank and fuel cooler and also explains how you find new debris in the filter as some of the fuel gets recirculated.
I'm replacing the fuel filter anyway so being the lowest point in the fuel system would seem the perfect place to drain the tank from?Why don't you drain the tank by disconnection the pipe from tank to filter first? If its possible?! I'm no expert tho!
I'm sure I didn't have to crank it lots last time and didn't squeeze anything to prime. I guess I must have got lucky.Fuel filter is in the rear as most of the components that are connected to it are also there. Only need the fuel feed and return to travel the length of the car.
Diesels except for VERY early ones only have the tandem pump, so turning the ignition on and off will do nothing as there is no electric pump.
Prime by using a squeeze type pump on the tandem return line, not trying to over work the starter and battery cranking to death.
Probably right on there! But once you've done it once it's okay.I'm sure I didn't have to crank it lots last time and didn't squeeze anything to prime. I guess I must have got lucky.
I had a 2004 1.9 tdi VW Caddy, first of the new shape 2K and the fuel filter for that was in the front of the engine bay, just like an oil filter and so easy and a pleasure to change.
I believe many or probably most A2's don't have their fuel filters changed anywhere near as often as they should because of where they are
High stakes job that when done without a @depronman standard issue drain screw to hand!So finally got a spare hour to change the fuel filter on our tdi.
All went well and it certainly needed doing judging by the colour of the old filter and the black bits that were in the fuel when it was removed, as it had been a couple of years since it was last done.
Typically the heat shield bolts sheared as the nuts were totally corroded seized despite copious amounts of penetrating fluid applied periodically in recent months and again before removing, along with a good wire brushing, so I will have to come up with a retaining solution for the protective/heat shield which thankfully is still in excellent condition and damage/rot free (advice welcomed and appreciated if you have already made a similar original quality fix)
The only scary bit was regarding the removal and replacement of the plastic nuts on the housing as they do seem to become very dry and tight with age and there is a terrifying fear that the small 10mm 2nm drain screw with shear (which fortunately mine didn't and should be good for at least another change) or the plastic 27mm nut on the housing lid itself with shear under force when undoing as then you're into a complete new housing for £80 odd but again thankfully all went fine.
The only minor issue I had was when I torqued the housing lid to the stated 25nm it appeared to leave a very slight 1-2 mm gap between the lid and the housing and I was reluctant to apply any more force in case the worst happened and although there are no leaks it bothers me slightly, so i plan on removing it again the next time I'm under the car again and will lubricate the threads with something with a bit more lubricating capabilities than the diesel that I applied to the seals and threads this time (again any advice on appropriate lubricants appreciated).
Unfortunately it didn't solve the occasional intermittent misfire that I've been recently experiencing but then again I didn't really believe it would, so next up was to replace or repair the injector wiring harness which I believe is the probable cause.
A good job done though (along with the pollen filter replacement) that thankfully won't need doing again for a couple of years ?
Yes very true and I did actually have one shear many years ago but managed to rig something up with a 10mm bolt and washer to secure the seal and prevent any leak but now I just use a long or deep 10mm socket and only tighten it by hand?Hi stakes job that when done without a @depronman standard issue drain screw to hand!