how can i disconnect the doors?

[bretti_kivi]

I'm still trying to find my starting problem and I'd really like to make sure there's no short to ground in the doors (I just put new speaker cable through and it was quite tight, so it's possible I've fouled something).

But how do I disconnect the cables in the footwells? They're those silly pink-locked multi-pin connectors and I can't figure them out

If I can't work it out, I will end up breaking them (as I really, really, want to avoid spending money on parts I don't really need).

help!

Bret

 

[Sarge]

I'm still trying to find my starting problem and I'd really like to make sure there's no short to ground in the doors (I just put new speaker cable through and it was quite tight, so it's possible I've fouled something).

But how do I disconnect the cables in the footwells? They're those silly pink-locked multi-pin connectors and I can't figure them out

If I can't work it out, I will end up breaking them (as I really, really, want to avoid spending money on parts I don't really need).

help!

Bret

Hi Bret What starting problem is that? sorry but I must have missed your story somewhere.

There is no connectors in the footwell for the doors, Your referring to the connectors in the door pillar I take it? Yes they can be very fiddly and a lot of people end up breaking them to get them out.
What I did was that I gently squeezed the boot on the outside of the pillar ( the visible side of the door pillar, not from the inner side of the car) and firmly wiggle it upwards, this releases the four little legs on the sides, then you will be able to remove the two clipped in connectors under it.


Hope it helps

SARGE

 

[bretti_kivi]

they're already out on that side (the outside), it was the two connectors that I needed help taking apart... I'll try something with a small screwdriver and the pink bits.

Yeah, start problems: If I try starting ATM, I get my fuel relay clicking. If I take the fuse for the fuel pump out, it's sort of OK, but there's something "pulsing" at 1-2Hz or so, and I think that might be a short. If it was the doors, that would explain a lot (like the dodgy central locking), but if it's not, well, my fuel pump won't start right now, I suspect because the voltage is hit from the short. Something like that, anyway. It's not *that* big as no fuses are blown; losing the door black boxes doesn't really help either as I think the short is in the door itself.
What I haven't tried yet, thinking about it, is removing the cables from the door box and then the fuse from the fuel pump.

exceedingly annoying is also that I can't now find my VAG-COM cable (!!), not that you can read it when the clicking is happening - after a minute or so of tries, it also shows me a yellow battery.

Bret

 

[bretti_kivi]

IT WORKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


problem solution?

- earth at base of right a-pillar was loose.
- earth at base of left a-pillar was loose.
- battery side of main 150A fuse was loose.
- battery negative not very tight.

So, four nuts. I've also tightened the + in the left footwell for good measure: it starts, runs, and I'll take it out later to wash it and shakedown. First, though, I need to lock the fuelpump relay down and fit some more parts

Bret

 

[Sarge]

IT WORKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


problem solution?

- earth at base of right a-pillar was loose.
- earth at base of left a-pillar was loose.
- battery side of main 150A fuse was loose.
- battery negative not very tight.

So, four nuts. I've also tightened the + in the left footwell for good measure: it starts, runs, and I'll take it out later to wash it and shakedown. First, though, I need to lock the fuelpump relay down and fit some more parts

Bret

WELL DONE!! As far as I can recall theres TWO Earths at the driver side and a single one on the Passenger side.

If there is any 'powder' which I believe is aluminium corrosion, around the earths, I would 'key' the area using sand paper and refit.





SARGE