If you have a 1.6 FSi with random misfire, READ THIS.

Sootywg

A2OC Donor
hi cud you help me pleased ive just joined and ive got a misfire on my audi a2 changed everything possible but been told there is a earth wire when you take passenger headlight out cant seem to locate it
Hi. The best pics I can find are in Post #9 in this thread http://www.a2oc.net/forum/showthread.php?29002-Earth-tag-below-NS-light

Whilst the bolt is clearly visible on the red chassis leg it is difficult to orientate yourself, the bolt runs for and aft with the head facing front. As said many times this is best accessed by removing the left headlight (2 torx bolts, really easy and good practice as this is also the easiest way to change a light bulb) once out the bolt is clearly visible looking through the headlight aperture. Even if no corrosion is visible remove the bolt as the corrosion occurs on the mating faces.

Geoff
 

Ami

Member
Hi Bdub:
Fantastic bit of help, it worked a treat on my A2 1.6 FSi.

Great,Thanks,
Ami
 

Ami

Member
Hi All:
I am new here, I had a very bad misfire on all cylinders, As mentioned above found the earth point behind the headlight, thoroughly cleaned it & the misfire is gone, but occasionally get the engine light coming on saying the same codes, but the car is running fine, Any ideas ?
Thanks,
Ami
 

Nye

Member
My misfire went away after I'd changed the spark plugs. I don't think the plugs made the difference, I suspect the coil packs weren't located or contacting properly.
 

Nye

Member
Hi. The best pics I can find are in Post #9 in this thread http://www.a2oc.net/forum/showthread.php?29002-Earth-tag-below-NS-light

Whilst the bolt is clearly visible on the red chassis leg it is difficult to orientate yourself, the bolt runs for and aft with the head facing front. As said many times this is best accessed by removing the left headlight (2 torx bolts, really easy and good practice as this is also the easiest way to change a light bulb) once out the bolt is clearly visible looking through the headlight aperture. Even if no corrosion is visible remove the bolt as the corrosion occurs on the mating faces.

Geoff
Mark the headlight position before you remove it. Otherwise, like me, you may incur an MOT failure for headlight misalignment.
 

999fire

New Member
Hi guys,
I am hoping someone can help me with my car. I bought a 2004 Colour Storm 1.6 FSI last year and my first problem that j encountered was going back to work one day and car stalled and gave up, towed it home and found 4 corroded wires on ECU. Sorted that out and then lost power with EML light on. Having read your posts here fellas, my car has no broken rod or flap lever, in fact, my flaps was stuck in the manifold which i had to remove and freed up. I replaced all injector seals as #1 was badly damaged. Anyhow, i replaced all, re built manifolds to engine and now it wont idle and no vacuum working on brake pedal, has anyone got any ideas on this new fault? I would really appreciate your help as i cannot get to enjoy my car at all. Thank you.
Incidentally guys, i had the fault codes you are all saying, misfire on cyls etc. My eml light is now off and my problem was a stuck inlet manifold flap. Although, i have already replaced all coil packs and Bosch plugs.
Also, please check your earth point on rocker cover at no. 1 cylinder, i had to extend mine as my earth wire was broken about an inch away from the lug.
 

Ami

Member
Hi Guys:
As mentioned above, my car was hardly running at all, once I cleaned the earth point behind the head light, it burst into life & started running, but every 2-3 days I get the engine light coming on with the following fault codes:
1) Long term fuel trim additive air Bank 1 Range 1 system too lean intermittent P1551
2) Misfire on cylinder 1 intermittent
3) Misfire on Cylinder 3 intermittent
4) Intake Air system leak detected P1504
The car also uses too much fuel, I think I get about 28 MPG, should be more than that I believe,
Have put new spark plugs & coil packs but no joy, it happens when taking off at low revs suddenly I clear the codes then a few days later the same issues.

Any help is very much appreciate it.

Thanks,
Ami
 

999fire

New Member
Hi Guys:
As mentioned above, my car was hardly running at all, once I cleaned the earth point behind the head light, it burst into life & started running, but every 2-3 days I get the engine light coming on with the following fault codes:
1) Long term fuel trim additive air Bank 1 Range 1 system too lean intermittent P1551
2) Misfire on cylinder 1 intermittent
3) Misfire on Cylinder 3 intermittent
4) Intake Air system leak detected P1504
The car also uses too much fuel, I think I get about 28 MPG, should be more than that I believe,
Have put new spark plugs & coil packs but no joy, it happens when taking off at low revs suddenly I clear the codes then a few days later the same issues.

Any help is very much appreciate it.

Thanks,
Ami
Hi Ami,

My car has had the same intermittent faults with mis firing air leaks etc. As i mentioned on my previous post that my fault was the flaps inside my lower manifold was stuck tight. I also suffered poor mpg and smell of petrol at times, found my problem when fixing my car was someone else had previously been working on my car and they damaged one of my injector seals. I replaced all injector seals at about £10 per kit and cleaned out inlet manifold to get my flaps working again and now my car is going great, only finished her last night and so needs to be road tested and i will report back on this shortly.
 

Ami

Member
Hi 999fire:
Thank you for your response.
I am glad your car is running fine now, I think taking the injectors out & replacing the seals is way beyond my limited mechanical know how, thought
I already have purchased 4 second hand injectors from a known working car.
Thanks again for your reply, probably need to take the car to a Audi specialist as main dealer prices are way too expensive
Ami
 

SLEI

New Member
I bought 3 months ago 2003 1.6 FSI as my 2001 TDI had some problems which I didn't have time to fix. I also wanted to test E85 and this engine has enought compression. FSI had misfire codes on memory but didn't behave odly when testdriven. Car had been driven only few Kmiles past three years by a older lady so I was thinking REVS, new plugs or coils would solve misfires.
FSI has been maintened in a shop and coils has been also changed in some near past.
New Brisk plugs + coils later misfires are now more frequent visitor.
I cleaned the left side behind driving lamp earth point but that is a big wire for the whole engine if car starts without problems coils should get enought earth from that point.
Earth wire on cylinder head, copper coated ring terminal against aluminium possible place of corrosion, cleaned but didn't help.
I'm starting to think this is not a spark problem but has something to do with intake manifold flaps and fuel mixture. No jerking with cold engine, highway speeds, or high revs over 3000 if spark problems have't started before 3000.
VCDS error codes for coil 3 and 4 and multiple spark errors.
 

steve_c

A2OC Donor
I bought 3 months ago 2003 1.6 FSI as my 2001 TDI had some problems which I didn't have time to fix. I also wanted to test E85 and this engine has enough compression.
Welcome! This is a very interesting project. I'd encourage you to use a premium traditional fuel while you resolve the misfire. It should be minimum 98 RON, and here in the UK Shell V-Power is probably as good as it gets: https://www.shell.co.uk/motorist/shell-fuels/shell-v-power/shell-v-power-unleaded.html

I don't know what fuel choices you have in Finland, but you should buy on the basis not only of octane rating but also cleaning additives (which the main petroleum brands have, but supermarket brands generally don't).
 

SLEI

New Member
Welcome! This is a very interesting project. I'd encourage you to use a premium traditional fuel while you resolve the misfire. It should be minimum 98 RON, and here in the UK Shell V-Power is probably as good as it gets: https://www.shell.co.uk/motorist/shell-fuels/shell-v-power/shell-v-power-unleaded.html

I don't know what fuel choices you have in Finland, but you should buy on the basis not only of octane rating but also cleaning additives (which the main petroleum brands have, but supermarket brands generally don't).
Shell had best gas in Finland many many many years ago when I was also working there but Shell fuel business was sold to St1 some years ago and I think V-power is 98E5 today. I actually tested some E85 mixtures and Unisetting programming when I couldn't get appointment for full chip tune. When misfire started to show again stopped using E85.
Ultimate goal would be 1.0L 3 cylinder turbo engine with Brasilian flexfuel program 130hp E85. I haven't found any Project A2 with newer engines so I wonder if CAN things on A2 work with new engine or is essential to change every box and dash?
ST1 E85 (RE85 as they call it) is made in Finland out of organic garbage, as I'm using so old eco car I would like to use also eco fuel.
2001 TDI with dual fuel diesel+biogas would be nice but I haven't found reasonable priced Carbonfiber tank and I have to pay fuel tax for CNG.
 

SLEI

New Member
Been running the TDI because I didn't need the tow hook anymore and misfires pissed me, but electric gremlings has appered to TDI when It was not driven so I really would like to drive the FSI.
I have read many topics about misfires but not many succes stories about repairs and people has changed many different parts but cure has been only short term.
I have driven more the FSI since my last posts and the misfires seem to appear only at city style driving when warm, I can drive long time in highway without problems but when I arrive to city and accelerate there I get misfire under 3000rpm and power is lost.
Maybe flaps or throttle flap are stuck then but I really don't understand why there is no errors from them as they have sensors for movement?
I have very good serviced 2.0 FSI injectors which I could try if injector wires are long enought but I really don't like random repairs.
 

steaman

A2OC Donor
I would suggest_
Check the earthing point behind the front passenger head light
I would recommend you to use OEM sparkplugs from Bosch instead of sparkplugs from Brisk.
 

SLEI

New Member
I would suggest_
Check the earthing point behind the front passenger head light
I would recommend you to use OEM sparkplugs from Bosch instead of sparkplugs from Brisk.
My car has a service book and it had been maintened and driven very little yearly mainly in city, only about 1000km since last maintenence when I bought it.
I inspected error codes before I bought it, intermittent spark errors on 3 and 4.
My thinking was that a lot of gas pedal would cure 60+ lady drivers city miles but it didn't.
So new spark plugs went in and ordered new coils. Old spark plugs looked used but usable still, coils propably less than two years old, errors still after new parts.
As I have written above I allready cleaned one earth point near cylinder one and the earth point in frame.
While I'm writing this I went outside and started the car +1C and it has been below zero at night, 5 seconds of little bit weak starting but running anyway. Car hasn't been driven for two months and I think daytime running lights may drain battery a little bit as they act funny after car is turned off.
Earth point behind driving lamp seems to be earth point for whole engine so if car starts easily with full battery and gets +100 amps, spark coils are going to get their share of electrons also.
E85 are reported to remove all old s**t in engine maybe I try to inject it directly to inlet pipe but revs are going jump a lot so can't be shure what happends.
 

SLEI

New Member
I'm slightly optimistic that I have solved my misfire. No plinking on check engine light for a week and didn't light up again when I cleared code today. Warm 90C dash engine allways plinked at 2-3000 rpm and sometimes also higher up and power was a little bit lost while plinking.
I sprayed CRC Carp cleaner to oil breather pipe connector in inlet track: cold and hot engine running and standing still, low and high revs, 3-4 different sessions maybe half bottle total.
Didn't start immidiately after first cold spray and swet rised, second start + little bit gas pedal solved it.
Why Carp cleaner not direct injection version? I figured out that older engines have more dirt at inlet track and worse cunk on pipes and maybe this version is heavier stuff and was also slightly cheaper.
So gas flap or the 4 inlet flaps were sticking and engine got wrong AFR or didn't got what ECU demanded?
Fingers crossed that this is semi permanent fix, garage is full and weather don't allow long dissassembly sessions of inlet track.
 

SLEI

New Member
So I didn't solve my misfire, blinging went away and I started to test with E85 and Unisettings program. Car was pulling like my chipped 1.4Tdi until my credit card quit working while I was going to fill up about 100% e85. Chistmass day and nothing was open got some 98 with cash and lots of testing but blinking came back. Eventually got rid of alcohol but got blinking after 98 only and stock settings, but now signs of missing power which happened allways before?
Dumped also more cleaner but don't understand why there is no rev change when I pull the oil breather pipe from inlet track?
Unmeasured air coming in after MAF, carb engine would stall, rev or something. Is the ECU so fast when wb-lambda is hot or is this indication of some part broken?
 

StefanoP

Member
Hello all

thank you to everyone contributing to this thread, it helps a lot when I try to understand what goes wrong in my own 1.6 FSI. It's also a sort of psychological support, seeing that I'm not alone in going through all types of malfunctioning of this complicated little engine. I think it's a brilliant car and a very interesting unit but perhaps a bit too advanced for its times: anyway when it works it's great and keeping in mind its rarity, the FSI remains a desirable car, a very peculiar little jewel.

Somebody mentioned /recommended to check and replace the crank and cam sensors to improve the idle and misfiring. My FSI doesn't misfire (yet), but the idle was rough even after I had replaced coils, injectors, plugs etc.so I bought a cam sensor on Amazon for a few pounds, fitted it (very simple, see pic attached) and the idle smoothed immediately, I'm very grateful to anyone who suggested this job. The 1.6 now has a more pleasant idle while keeping her strong pull (having to move such a light body is an obvious bonus) and a very nice growl, so I'm pleased with her now. Fingers crossed....

FW888WS is now at the garage to replace its badly scratched windscreen, I can't wait to have her back and drive her after so many months of fixing all her previous maladies. Thanks a lot to this wonderful Forum!

Have a nice time,

Stefano
 

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Teresa

Social Secretary
Hello all

thank you to everyone contributing to this thread, it helps a lot when I try to understand what goes wrong in my own 1.6 FSI. It's also a sort of psychological support, seeing that I'm not alone in going through all types of malfunctioning of this complicated little engine. I think it's a brilliant car and a very interesting unit but perhaps a bit too advanced for its times: anyway when it works it's great and keeping in mind its rarity, the FSI remains a desirable car, a very peculiar little jewel.

Somebody mentioned /recommended to check and replace the crank and cam sensors to improve the idle and misfiring. My FSI doesn't misfire (yet), but the idle was rough even after I had replaced coils, injectors, plugs etc.so I bought a cam sensor on Amazon for a few pounds, fitted it (very simple, see pic attached) and the idle smoothed immediately, I'm very grateful to anyone who suggested this job. The 1.6 now has a more pleasant idle while keeping her strong pull (having to move such a light body is an obvious bonus) and a very nice growl, so I'm pleased with her now. Fingers crossed....

FW888WS is now at the garage to replace its badly scratched windscreen, I can't wait to have her back and drive her after so many months of fixing all her previous maladies. Thanks a lot to this wonderful Forum!

Have a nice time,

Stefano
They are awesome cars when running properly. I will look at the cam sensor thing as mine has a tiny cough at idle and scans show nothing.

The main thing I've learnt with mine is not to stress when the EML comes on. It really can be for anything sometimes. Mine came on a while back, just before I was going to put her in storage for a bit. I couldn't be bothered to scan it before I did. Got her out at the weekend and no light at all. Think putting her in the garage is the car version of the naughty step 😄
 

A2Steve

A2OC Donor
There does seem to be a definite sway from the FSI being the butt of all jokes to now being considered a very viable option.

Is this in part due to the motoring press stating that its the most likely to be the appreciating classic amongst the flock or moreso the anti diesel sway over recent years.

I think the P1031 thread has done a lot to unravel the mystery around the inlet manifold and certainly in my case has made me less daunted of taking on an FSI.

I currently have 3 A2's here that I have the potential to keep as my main car (the other 2 must then be sold)

My 165k re-mapped TDI 90 that goes like **** off a shovel
A black 1.4 petrol with 70k and high spec or
A dolphin grey FSI with 50k and high spec

I feel the 1.4 is a little underpowered for my commute (up and down the welsh valleys) so I think I can scratch that one off, but I may just keep this FSI, which even a year ago would be something I could never imagine me saying.

A2Steve- on the cusp of starting an FSI journey :)
 
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