If you have a 1.6 FSi with random misfire, READ THIS.

[Sootywg]

hi cud you help me pleased ive just joined and ive got a misfire on my audi a2 changed everything possible but been told there is a earth wire when you take passenger headlight out cant seem to locate it

Hi. The best pics I can find are in Post #9 in this thread http://www.a2oc.net/forum/showthread.php?29002-Earth-tag-below-NS-light

Whilst the bolt is clearly visible on the red chassis leg it is difficult to orientate yourself, the bolt runs for and aft with the head facing front. As said many times this is best accessed by removing the left headlight (2 torx bolts, really easy and good practice as this is also the easiest way to change a light bulb) once out the bolt is clearly visible looking through the headlight aperture. Even if no corrosion is visible remove the bolt as the corrosion occurs on the mating faces.

Geoff

 

[Ami]

Hi Bdub:
Fantastic bit of help, it worked a treat on my A2 1.6 FSi.

Great,Thanks,
Ami

 

[Ami]

Hi All:
I am new here, I had a very bad misfire on all cylinders, As mentioned above found the earth point behind the headlight, thoroughly cleaned it & the misfire is gone, but occasionally get the engine light coming on saying the same codes, but the car is running fine, Any ideas ?
Thanks,
Ami

 

[Nye]

My misfire went away after I'd changed the spark plugs. I don't think the plugs made the difference, I suspect the coil packs weren't located or contacting properly.

 

[Nye]

Hi. The best pics I can find are in Post #9 in this thread http://www.a2oc.net/forum/showthread.php?29002-Earth-tag-below-NS-light

Whilst the bolt is clearly visible on the red chassis leg it is difficult to orientate yourself, the bolt runs for and aft with the head facing front. As said many times this is best accessed by removing the left headlight (2 torx bolts, really easy and good practice as this is also the easiest way to change a light bulb) once out the bolt is clearly visible looking through the headlight aperture. Even if no corrosion is visible remove the bolt as the corrosion occurs on the mating faces.

Geoff

Mark the headlight position before you remove it. Otherwise, like me, you may incur an MOT failure for headlight misalignment.

 

[999fire]

Hi guys,
I am hoping someone can help me with my car. I bought a 2004 Colour Storm 1.6 FSI last year and my first problem that j encountered was going back to work one day and car stalled and gave up, towed it home and found 4 corroded wires on ECU. Sorted that out and then lost power with EML light on. Having read your posts here fellas, my car has no broken rod or flap lever, in fact, my flaps was stuck in the manifold which i had to remove and freed up. I replaced all injector seals as #1 was badly damaged. Anyhow, i replaced all, re built manifolds to engine and now it wont idle and no vacuum working on brake pedal, has anyone got any ideas on this new fault? I would really appreciate your help as i cannot get to enjoy my car at all. Thank you.
Incidentally guys, i had the fault codes you are all saying, misfire on cyls etc. My eml light is now off and my problem was a stuck inlet manifold flap. Although, i have already replaced all coil packs and Bosch plugs.
Also, please check your earth point on rocker cover at no. 1 cylinder, i had to extend mine as my earth wire was broken about an inch away from the lug.

 

[Ami]

Hi Guys:
As mentioned above, my car was hardly running at all, once I cleaned the earth point behind the head light, it burst into life & started running, but every 2-3 days I get the engine light coming on with the following fault codes:
1) Long term fuel trim additive air Bank 1 Range 1 system too lean intermittent P1551
2) Misfire on cylinder 1 intermittent
3) Misfire on Cylinder 3 intermittent
4) Intake Air system leak detected P1504
The car also uses too much fuel, I think I get about 28 MPG, should be more than that I believe,
Have put new spark plugs & coil packs but no joy, it happens when taking off at low revs suddenly I clear the codes then a few days later the same issues.

Any help is very much appreciate it.

Thanks,
Ami

 

[999fire]

Hi Guys:
As mentioned above, my car was hardly running at all, once I cleaned the earth point behind the head light, it burst into life & started running, but every 2-3 days I get the engine light coming on with the following fault codes:
1) Long term fuel trim additive air Bank 1 Range 1 system too lean intermittent P1551
2) Misfire on cylinder 1 intermittent
3) Misfire on Cylinder 3 intermittent
4) Intake Air system leak detected P1504
The car also uses too much fuel, I think I get about 28 MPG, should be more than that I believe,
Have put new spark plugs & coil packs but no joy, it happens when taking off at low revs suddenly I clear the codes then a few days later the same issues.

Any help is very much appreciate it.

Thanks,
Ami

Hi Ami,

My car has had the same intermittent faults with mis firing air leaks etc. As i mentioned on my previous post that my fault was the flaps inside my lower manifold was stuck tight. I also suffered poor mpg and smell of petrol at times, found my problem when fixing my car was someone else had previously been working on my car and they damaged one of my injector seals. I replaced all injector seals at about £10 per kit and cleaned out inlet manifold to get my flaps working again and now my car is going great, only finished her last night and so needs to be road tested and i will report back on this shortly.

 

[Ami]

Hi 999fire:
Thank you for your response.
I am glad your car is running fine now, I think taking the injectors out & replacing the seals is way beyond my limited mechanical know how, thought
I already have purchased 4 second hand injectors from a known working car.
Thanks again for your reply, probably need to take the car to a Audi specialist as main dealer prices are way too expensive
Ami

 

[SLEI]

I bought 3 months ago 2003 1.6 FSI as my 2001 TDI had some problems which I didn't have time to fix. I also wanted to test E85 and this engine has enought compression. FSI had misfire codes on memory but didn't behave odly when testdriven. Car had been driven only few Kmiles past three years by a older lady so I was thinking REVS, new plugs or coils would solve misfires.
FSI has been maintened in a shop and coils has been also changed in some near past.
New Brisk plugs + coils later misfires are now more frequent visitor.
I cleaned the left side behind driving lamp earth point but that is a big wire for the whole engine if car starts without problems coils should get enought earth from that point.
Earth wire on cylinder head, copper coated ring terminal against aluminium possible place of corrosion, cleaned but didn't help.
I'm starting to think this is not a spark problem but has something to do with intake manifold flaps and fuel mixture. No jerking with cold engine, highway speeds, or high revs over 3000 if spark problems have't started before 3000.
VCDS error codes for coil 3 and 4 and multiple spark errors.

 

[steve_c]

I bought 3 months ago 2003 1.6 FSI as my 2001 TDI had some problems which I didn't have time to fix. I also wanted to test E85 and this engine has enough compression.

Welcome! This is a very interesting project. I'd encourage you to use a premium traditional fuel while you resolve the misfire. It should be minimum 98 RON, and here in the UK Shell V-Power is probably as good as it gets: https://www.shell.co.uk/motorist/shell-fuels/shell-v-power/shell-v-power-unleaded.html

I don't know what fuel choices you have in Finland, but you should buy on the basis not only of octane rating but also cleaning additives (which the main petroleum brands have, but supermarket brands generally don't).

 

[SLEI]

Welcome! This is a very interesting project. I'd encourage you to use a premium traditional fuel while you resolve the misfire. It should be minimum 98 RON, and here in the UK Shell V-Power is probably as good as it gets: https://www.shell.co.uk/motorist/shell-fuels/shell-v-power/shell-v-power-unleaded.html

I don't know what fuel choices you have in Finland, but you should buy on the basis not only of octane rating but also cleaning additives (which the main petroleum brands have, but supermarket brands generally don't).

Shell had best gas in Finland many many many years ago when I was also working there but Shell fuel business was sold to St1 some years ago and I think V-power is 98E5 today. I actually tested some E85 mixtures and Unisetting programming when I couldn't get appointment for full chip tune. When misfire started to show again stopped using E85.
Ultimate goal would be 1.0L 3 cylinder turbo engine with Brasilian flexfuel program 130hp E85. I haven't found any Project A2 with newer engines so I wonder if CAN things on A2 work with new engine or is essential to change every box and dash?
ST1 E85 (RE85 as they call it) is made in Finland out of organic garbage, as I'm using so old eco car I would like to use also eco fuel.
2001 TDI with dual fuel diesel+biogas would be nice but I haven't found reasonable priced Carbonfiber tank and I have to pay fuel tax for CNG.

 

[SLEI]

Been running the TDI because I didn't need the tow hook anymore and misfires pissed me, but electric gremlings has appered to TDI when It was not driven so I really would like to drive the FSI.
I have read many topics about misfires but not many succes stories about repairs and people has changed many different parts but cure has been only short term.
I have driven more the FSI since my last posts and the misfires seem to appear only at city style driving when warm, I can drive long time in highway without problems but when I arrive to city and accelerate there I get misfire under 3000rpm and power is lost.
Maybe flaps or throttle flap are stuck then but I really don't understand why there is no errors from them as they have sensors for movement?
I have very good serviced 2.0 FSI injectors which I could try if injector wires are long enought but I really don't like random repairs.

 

[steaman]

I would suggest_
Check the earthing point behind the front passenger head light
I would recommend you to use OEM sparkplugs from Bosch instead of sparkplugs from Brisk.

 

[SLEI]

I would suggest_
Check the earthing point behind the front passenger head light
I would recommend you to use OEM sparkplugs from Bosch instead of sparkplugs from Brisk.

My car has a service book and it had been maintened and driven very little yearly mainly in city, only about 1000km since last maintenence when I bought it.
I inspected error codes before I bought it, intermittent spark errors on 3 and 4.
My thinking was that a lot of gas pedal would cure 60+ lady drivers city miles but it didn't.
So new spark plugs went in and ordered new coils. Old spark plugs looked used but usable still, coils propably less than two years old, errors still after new parts.
As I have written above I allready cleaned one earth point near cylinder one and the earth point in frame.
While I'm writing this I went outside and started the car +1C and it has been below zero at night, 5 seconds of little bit weak starting but running anyway. Car hasn't been driven for two months and I think daytime running lights may drain battery a little bit as they act funny after car is turned off.
Earth point behind driving lamp seems to be earth point for whole engine so if car starts easily with full battery and gets +100 amps, spark coils are going to get their share of electrons also.
E85 are reported to remove all old s**t in engine maybe I try to inject it directly to inlet pipe but revs are going jump a lot so can't be shure what happends.