jdd gearbox clutch problem update more woes

T

turbo mandrake

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guys ive fiddled around with everything to make sure its all connecting and stuff, this is what happens, i can put the car in 1st or reverse handbrake off, let the clutch out and nothing, she sits there ticking over in gear clutch out and no forward movement or anything, what in the hell.
 
Hello,
Sorry to hear your car is playing up
I'm going to reel of a list of variables in no particular order.....

Did you install a full clutch kit?
Pressure plate, friction disc and bearing?
If the old pressure plate was used it maybe weak or worse broke.
This is not critcal did flywheel get treated to some wet and dry sandpaper to remove any glazing.
Could the clutch friction plate be in backwards?
Did the gearbox get a new oil seal on the transfer shaft (not sure of its proper name)?
If not it maybe its leaking oil, possible that the friction material is contaminated?
The clutch mechanism actuator arm, spring (clip type of thing) and so called 'top hat' were they replaced for new?

I would remove the gearbox and work backwards checking each part and replacing any worn or defective items.
The car gears worked before the gearbox swap?
This may indicate the linkage to the gearbox and the slave cylinder may well not be at fault.

Good luck

Edit.

Even though a clutch is a fairly simple mechanism there are a lot of other system variables to consider when they malfunction.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
rotifer said:
Hello,
Sorry to hear your car is playing up
I'm going to reel of a list of variables in no particular order.....

Did you install a full clutch kit?
Pressure plate, friction disc and bearing?
If the old pressure plate was used it maybe weak or worse broke.
This is not critcal did flywheel treated to some wet and dry sandpaper to remove any glazing.
Could the clutch friction plate be in backwards?
Did the gearbox get a new oil seal on the transfer shaft (not sure of its proper name)?
If not it maybe its leaking oil, possible that the friction material is contaminated?
The clutch mechanism actuator arm, spring (clip type of thing) and so called 'top hat' were they replaced for new?

I would remove the gearbox and work backwards checking each part and replacing any worn or defective items.
The car gears worked before the gearbox swap?
This may indicate the linkage to the gearbox and the slave cylinder may well not be at fault.

Good luck

Edit.

Even though a clutch is a fairly simple mechanism there are a lot of other system variables to consider when they malfunction.
Click to expand...
hi mate, we installed a new borg and beck complete clutch, no new oil seal on the transfer shaft, i think the arm was transferred from the polo box, on start up the clutch release bearing rattles until you push the clutch down n up and then its quiet, we pretty sure the plate is in the right way, we replaced the old original box as it was full of water and done for. all the gears select perfectly and the clutch is nice and light, so im stumped, one thing is after i bled the system, i had a leak from the servo area that leaked onto the steering rack gaiter and then ran down the wishbone, where might this have come from, where is the slave cylinder located, cheers matt
 
Sorry I should have given its full name, clutch slave cylinder. That's easy place to start, let's not second guess that friction plate being the wrong way round just yet...plus that list was me just compiling all the possibilities off the top of my head.
Looks similar to this and it's ontop of the gearbox
Screenshot_20240129_164955_DuckDuckGo.jpg


When you say servo do you mean the other end of the hydraulic system by the brake fluid reservoir?
 
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when i was first looking for an a2 i seen one that just had a new clutch fitted and had done the exact thing and would not drive as i kept getting stuck on the bearing guide tube
 
Are you pressure bleeding the hydraulic system?

I use this as it's effective and cheap to buy.

Screenshot_20240129_170241_DuckDuckGo.jpg

Ezibleed by made by Gunson

Pressure bleeding the system will help flush new fluid to where it needs to go. A bit more readily than pumping the clutch pedal. Edit, I'm not saying that is what you did. :) 👍
 
The bearing guide is showing some wear.
Edit, I don't think that's the problem though.

I'm going to look at the workshop manual to refresh my memory on the clutch.

EDIT
After reading @kraig22 write up and comments it sounds like you have the likely part causing the problem
 
Last edited by a moderator:
rotifer said:
Are you pressure bleeding the hydraulic system?

I use this as it's effective and cheap to buy.

View attachment 118350
Ezibleed by made by Gunson

Pressure bleeding the system will help flush new fluid to where it needs to go. A bit more readily than pumping the clutch pedal. Edit, I'm not saying that is what you did. :) 👍
Click to expand...
mate i did bleed it, i kept pumping into the bottle of fluid until no more air came out into it and then tightened up the nipple and topped up the reservoir, did i do it wrong.
 
if the slave wasnt working it wouldnt get into gear , The release bearing would stop it re engaging the drive, take the slave off and push the back of the plate it may snap back and re engage the clutch plate . this is the same one
that had the high bite point id assume its not traveling the guide tube and now it catching earlier in its travel
 
May I double check so I may understand what you have explained so far.

With the engine running (stating the obvious I know)

The gearbox was able to move the car in some gears.
But....
Now the gearbox doesn't move the car at all with the clutch fully out and in gear.

Normally, when you release a clutch it is engaged and that is why a car has a neutral gear.

Stating the obvious again.

Therefore at the moment the engine is not transferring its rotational movement along the transfer shaft through the clutch plate and into the gearbox with the clutch pedal released.

Sorry thinking as typing
 
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So why is that?

It's got to be the friction material or the clutch plate is hung up on something?

Still thinking and typing.

I don't expect answers to my questions. Its just me processing:cool:

What are your thoughts on the friction plate??
 
You got access to an inspection camera to look inside the gearbox at the actuator arm and bearing ?
 
kraig22 said:
if the slave wasnt working it wouldnt get into gear , The release bearing would stop it re engaging the drive, take the slave off and push the back of the plate it may snap back and re engage the clutch plate . this is the same one
that had the high bite point id assume its not traveling the guide tube and now it catching earlier in its travel
Click to expand...
il have a go mate
 
We will sort this hitch out.
I'm just making a bite to eat. Then I'll do a bit of research and report back
 
kraig22 said:
when i was first looking for an a2 i seen one that just had a new clutch fitted and had done the exact thing and would not drive as i kept getting stuck on the bearing guide tube
Click to expand...
Must be that...sleeve a simple fix
 
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