Lanoguard

[PaulQV]

I was chatting to Paul about some bits I needed for my A2 and explained I was doing some preventative rust protection whilst the rear wheels were off. I was trying out Lanogaurd. On the photos of the Front struts, I just sprayed a bit from the top of the wheels to see what the effect would be. In short. Not much.
At the rear, I had wire brushed the rusty bits, then pained over a rust kill type paint and then applied the Lanogaurd. I dont think it converts the rust as claimed in the adverts on Facebook.
Normaly I would wire brush, then wash, dry and apply the rust paint. It is the Milky one used in some north sea applications.

Any views or other experiences?

 

[dj_efk]

Hi @PaulQV

Seems you were the pioneer user of this stuff - I see you don’t log in very often but when you do, could you give your thoughts on this stuff - Audrey’s rear axle is looking pretty rusty so was thinking of using it on top of a stabiliser like you did. How is it holding up now it’s been a year+ since application?

 

[GingerSumer2003]

I've got some Lanoguard waiting to be applied, I'm going to wire brush and wipe off with a dry cloth and paint some Genalite rust converter on before spraying a couple coats of Lanoguard. Should have good results.

 

[sixerj]

Another one to consider. VAG, Mercedes OEM Factory & NATO protection spec type product and used by high end classic restoration companies I know of

DINITROL 970 HYDROCORR

www.dinitrol.com

RC900 & 4941. Cavity waxes (ML) not really applicable to the A2

Not cheap, but good & removal and converting prior to any treatment as per G’s comment


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[donp38]

My suggestion is to wire brush, rust converter, paint and only then put some 'wax' on.
I would suggest Lanoshield as it doesn't smell and then simply apply this annually as part of the annual service.

 

[Jeff Sutcliffe]

Lanoguard is the new kid on the block and is used a lot in the Land Rover community, primarily, I have the impression, because it's cheaper than doing the job properly.
Dinitrol, as posted by @sixerj is my recommendation. Using it after thoroughly cleaning and wire brushing any loose rust has kept my last two Land Rovers in great condition for several years, particularly with an inspection and reapplication if necessary every two years.

 

[sixerj]

Lanoguard is the new kid on the block and is used a lot in the Land Rover community, primarily, I have the impression, because it's cheaper than doing the job properly.
Dinitrol, as posted by @sixerj is my recommendation. Using it after thoroughly cleaning and wire brushing any loose rust has kept my last two Land Rovers in great condition for several years, particularly with an inspection and reapplication if necessary every two years.

True on application it does have a smell as outer surface evaporates while it semi sets 1. It’s not that bad. 2. Personally I like the oil, dirt and petrol smell of a well worn garage

Smell fades pretty quick and can be wiped off (turps I think)

It does take a long time to set fully (it never does really and that’s the point) so if your going to work on the car shortly after application expect to get it on you and touch up. But that’s true of any of these wax type systems that ‘creep’ if dinked

Buy a disposable boiler suit & don’t wear your old glasses (they get totally ruined ), hot bucket of water to drop the cans into warm up and make viscous (particularly ML cavity)

Brake flexi, exhaust, prop or drive shafts etc are usually wrapped with tin foil

All of that said it is a more expensive option and Lanogaurd (or anything waxy) has to be better than doing nothing once the rust has been treated and dealt with

Will be interesting to see G’s lanoguard pics and thoughts once she has applied


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[martin 54]

I have just bought some Morris Ankor anti rust wax to spray on my vintage combine panels.

 

[Little Dog]

Edit, there are two companies supplying these products, Lanoshield and Lanoguard. As I can’t find the conversation on Facebook to refer to I can’t be sure which company I had the exchange with. I will refer to them as LanoXXX.

I had a bit of an exchange with LanoXXX on Facebook. I was getting spammed by their adverts that I considered originated in fantasy land. After trying unsuccessfully to block the add I decided to challenge them.
They claimed it provides chip protection and when I challenged it was too soft they claimed it was self healing and needs topping up from time to time
If you need chip protection you need to apply a rubberised chip guard coat. It’s permanent unless you run over a rock and scrape the underside.
Axle and suspension components could benefit but again stones and grit will remove the soft LanoXXX which will also probably hide paint damage. Better I think rust convert and apply paint. Then you can see damage and easily repair.
That leaves panel cavities and nooks and crannies on suspension etc. I have Dynax UC for that job but did accept LanoXXX could be an environmentally friendly alternative. I committed to buying some for cavity use when the Dynax runs out.
LanoXXX were insistent their products had wider application. Perhaps on a slow off road Land Rover but I just can’t see it giving chip protection to a road car.
I no longer receive the adverts.

 

[donp38]

Very intersteing little dog.
In the main I agree with you.
As I say for the product it is I use Lanoshield.
I feel a better company than Lanoguard. But use is complimentary and not in isolation.