Loom for rear electric windows

Evening folks, I’m Chris and have been lurking here for about 4 years but I am getting around to some improvements on my ‘02 plate 1.4 tdi.
Having wanted rear ‘lecky windows for some time and recently bought the whole set-up from another forum member, he has sent me all the parts plus a part loom, however (and IIRC they are out of an ‘04 car) the connections have changed in the intervening years (I’ve surmised this from the threads on rear speaker upgrades).
Firstly, have I surmised correctly? Secondly can anybody help with connectors/extra bit of wiring, please?
First pic below is of the motor with connections for speakers and(?) the second is the old loom with connections for elec windows & central locking, the female connection can be seen on the 1st pic, LHside. I’m guessing I need cabling from the male connector into the connection box attached to the motor?
Any advice on what, where & how much appreciated. Chris
 

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It's a lot more involved retrofit than you might think, unless you've really done your homework already. If you haven't, you won't be able to lock the car until you get it right. I would say you'd do well to seek the services of @timmus.
 
Can of worms indeed. LOTS of research required and then you need compatible parts. The door connectors on the B pillars changed between those two dates and we do not know what existing wiring is in the car up to the door B pillar connectors.

I fear you may either need rewiring the connectors or even a custom wiring loom.

I think the safest option for you is to enlist timmus to fit these items for you. as I am sure there are other items you have not considered.
 
Thanks for your replies, both recommending the services of Timmus, that was my intention however the nearest he gets to me (at your place, proghound) is about 100 miles away (I’m at Christchurch, Dorset) and he’s booked up anyway.
As you have both mention, I need to do a bit more research into which connections are missing, find a suitable connector and re-pin it.
regards, Chris
 
As you have to remove current pins and install additional wiring (power, k-line, can-bus wires) for rear motors you could replace b-pillar connector housing with newer version (8E0972701).
In that case door loom that came with motors will need no modifications.
 
As you have to remove current pins and install additional wiring (power, k-line, can-bus wires) for rear motors you could replace b-pillar connector housing with newer version (8E0972701).
In that case door loom that came with motors will need no modifications.
Thank you, Neo, I will certainly look into this option. 😊 Chris
 
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I did a retro fit of rear Electic windows a few weeks ago on my new project. If I get some time I'm going to do a post on all of the wring required and how it all goes together . It was fairly easy to do if you are a competent DIYer. I had a complete loom from a donor A2 so could work out what cables go where. I spent a day separating out the cables and had spare cable to make this work it’s a really sticky job removing 20 year old loom tape This is not a step by step how to but to get some pointers if you want to do this yourself



The B pillar connectors are the same as the front A pillar connectors. For wiring the only pins you’ll have to remove from the existing B pillar connectors are the speaker pins and move them over to the new donor connector as this is what I did . I got a tool to depin on eBay ~£6 . Don’t try with out a good depin tool I left the original cables on the factory connector as they were there so could revert back at any time by swapping back manual doors. Adding the speaker pins was the last job and I added Bose at the same time a complete loom end to end. If you can get a set of front A pillar connectors with some loom it will make adding these a lot easier as all of the pins are what’s needed for the rears and extend the cables. It also allows you to do bits in stages so you don’t have no locks on the rear doors whilst you switch over. I did mine over a few days as I had time to stop and start as needed. I took the seats out as well as I had more room to work

I’ll put some details of where are good places to get Kline left and right side power and negative connections making up the looms will take some time and getting the lengths correct so not much is hanging about as well as suitable cable

Connector pic (new style) this is from the passenger front side so you can see what’s what

The 2 red orange that are crimped they go to either fuse 39 for the right side and 41 for the left side . I ran mine to the fuse box but these can be taken from other places

Thick red and black stripe goes to the blow fuse in the passenger A pillar. I added a new blow fuse as there is a slot under the cradle for it to go you need to run a cable over from the drivers side as well . Then connected this to the main live bundle

Thick brown there are a few places you can connect to passenger and drivers side a pillars crimp and connect

Can hi and can low . orange and green and orange brown. I run these to the passenger foot well where the cccu is as they are part of that bus. I’ll need to look at the plug on where on the ccu it goes. You’ll need the drivers side to get over as well . There are lots of other places you can get connections for ease of work there is lots of space to work here

Red and grey stripe is Kline again this is on the cccu in the passenger foot well. You need cables from both sides I can’t remember the plug will have to check later

The hard part is dismantling the doors and replacing the frames and the looms for the rear motors. These looms would have come from the donor vehicle . There are guides on here how to do that part and it’s a fairly complete guide and some details on cabling . I had full doors wrong colour so could test before I did the swap.

I get disconnected the connector for manual rear doors on the ccu so could revert back if needed.

You also need to code the cccu for rear electric windows vcds is needed for this. Then the remotes need coding too .

For most this is a big job and a non starter and Tom would be your best option if you’re not confident doing this yourself.


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I did a retro fit of rear Electic windows a few weeks ago on my new project. If I get some time I'm going to do a post on all of the wring required and how it all goes together . It was fairly easy to do if you are a competent DIYer. I had a complete loom from a donor A2 so could work out what cables go where. I spent a day separating out the cables and had spare cable to make this work it’s a really sticky job removing 20 year old loom tape This is not a step by step how to but to get some pointers if you want to do this yourself



The B pillar connectors are the same as the front A pillar connectors. For wiring the only pins you’ll have to remove from the existing B pillar connectors are the speaker pins and move them over to the new donor connector as this is what I did . I got a tool to depin on eBay ~£6 . Don’t try with out a good depin tool I left the original cables on the factory connector as they were there so could revert back at any time by swapping back manual doors. Adding the speaker pins was the last job and I added Bose at the same time a complete loom end to end. If you can get a set of front A pillar connectors with some loom it will make adding these a lot easier as all of the pins are what’s needed for the rears and extend the cables. It also allows you to do bits in stages so you don’t have no locks on the rear doors whilst you switch over. I did mine over a few days as I had time to stop and start as needed. I took the seats out as well as I had more room to work

I’ll put some details of where are good places to get Kline left and right side power and negative connections making up the looms will take some time and getting the lengths correct so not much is hanging about as well as suitable cable

Connector pic (new style) this is from the passenger front side so you can see what’s what

The 2 red orange that are crimped they go to either fuse 39 for the right side and 41 for the left side . I ran mine to the fuse box but these can be taken from other places

Thick red and black stripe goes to the blow fuse in the passenger A pillar. I added a new blow fuse as there is a slot under the cradle for it to go you need to run a cable over from the drivers side as well . Then connected this to the main live bundle

Thick brown there are a few places you can connect to passenger and drivers side a pillars crimp and connect

Can hi and can low . orange and green and orange brown. I run these to the passenger foot well where the cccu is as they are part of that bus. I’ll need to look at the plug on where on the ccu it goes. You’ll need the drivers side to get over as well . There are lots of other places you can get connections for ease of work there is lots of space to work here

Red and grey stripe is Kline again this is on the cccu in the passenger foot well. You need cables from both sides I can’t remember the plug will have to check later

The hard part is dismantling the doors and replacing the frames and the looms for the rear motors. These looms would have come from the donor vehicle . There are guides on here how to do that part and it’s a fairly complete guide and some details on cabling . I had full doors wrong colour so could test before I did the swap.

I get disconnected the connector for manual rear doors on the ccu so could revert back if needed.

You also need to code the cccu for rear electric windows vcds is needed for this. Then the remotes need coding too .

For most this is a big job and a non starter and Tom would be your best option if you’re not confident doing this yourself.


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Thanks for your post, devans, I’m at the point of figuring out the relevant pins, connector blocks and cable runs, so I can refer back to this, any other info would be greatfully received. Chris
 
I did a retro fit of rear Electic windows a few weeks ago on my new project. If I get some time I'm going to do a post on all of the wring required and how it all goes together . It was fairly easy to do if you are a competent DIYer. I had a complete loom from a donor A2 so could work out what cables go where. I spent a day separating out the cables and had spare cable to make this work it’s a really sticky job removing 20 year old loom tape This is not a step by step how to but to get some pointers if you want to do this yourself



The B pillar connectors are the same as the front A pillar connectors. For wiring the only pins you’ll have to remove from the existing B pillar connectors are the speaker pins and move them over to the new donor connector as this is what I did . I got a tool to depin on eBay ~£6 . Don’t try with out a good depin tool I left the original cables on the factory connector as they were there so could revert back at any time by swapping back manual doors. Adding the speaker pins was the last job and I added Bose at the same time a complete loom end to end. If you can get a set of front A pillar connectors with some loom it will make adding these a lot easier as all of the pins are what’s needed for the rears and extend the cables. It also allows you to do bits in stages so you don’t have no locks on the rear doors whilst you switch over. I did mine over a few days as I had time to stop and start as needed. I took the seats out as well as I had more room to work

I’ll put some details of where are good places to get Kline left and right side power and negative connections making up the looms will take some time and getting the lengths correct so not much is hanging about as well as suitable cable

Connector pic (new style) this is from the passenger front side so you can see what’s what

The 2 red orange that are crimped they go to either fuse 39 for the right side and 41 for the left side . I ran mine to the fuse box but these can be taken from other places

Thick red and black stripe goes to the blow fuse in the passenger A pillar. I added a new blow fuse as there is a slot under the cradle for it to go you need to run a cable over from the drivers side as well . Then connected this to the main live bundle

Thick brown there are a few places you can connect to passenger and drivers side a pillars crimp and connect

Can hi and can low . orange and green and orange brown. I run these to the passenger foot well where the cccu is as they are part of that bus. I’ll need to look at the plug on where on the ccu it goes. You’ll need the drivers side to get over as well . There are lots of other places you can get connections for ease of work there is lots of space to work here

Red and grey stripe is Kline again this is on the cccu in the passenger foot well. You need cables from both sides I can’t remember the plug will have to check later

The hard part is dismantling the doors and replacing the frames and the looms for the rear motors. These looms would have come from the donor vehicle . There are guides on here how to do that part and it’s a fairly complete guide and some details on cabling . I had full doors wrong colour so could test before I did the swap.

I get disconnected the connector for manual rear doors on the ccu so could revert back if needed.

You also need to code the cccu for rear electric windows vcds is needed for this. Then the remotes need coding too .

For most this is a big job and a non starter and Tom would be your best option if you’re not confident doing this yourself.


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Morning David,

Wow that’s an excellent share Sir, exactly the kind of community spirited assistance I enjoy reading when I have the time to drop in. Thank you very much for the information provided here, which should help Chris (and many more members in the future) either decided to continue alone or find the funds for someone to complete the retrofit for him. Extremely good of you to add such detail without scaremongering as I can also confirm it’s a relatively straight forward retrofit if you’ve done your homework.

Chris @creesewads before you go any further and before David adds any further detail, I think it’s probably worth reading the below thread as it’s another great source of tips for this particular retrofit:


I’m at the point of figuring out the relevant pins, connector blocks and cable runs

There is no need to figure any of this out as the required information is contained within the Electrical Wiring Diagrams which you really should have access to before taking in this kind of work, note the 2 different connector revisions and the 2 pin arrangements in the later type connector. It’s not difficult to understand or follow to figure out what wire does what and what pin goes where, after all it’s a 20+ year old marque so hardly new technology. Research is key though.

Kind regards,

Tom
 
I’ve taken a couple of pictures of where can low and can high are connected in my retrofit along with Kline in the cccu .


You can see I’ve added another blow fuse for ease of install. If you ask clackers or A2Steve they will at some point have blow fuse holders and front door connectors that will help with the retrofit then solder extensions to these cables

I’ve disconnected the plug for manual doors on the cccu and the original b pillar connector is left disconnected
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Evening David,

Another great helpful nudge Sir. Awesome information for any DIYers out there wishing to conduct this particular retrofit themselves.

Kind regards,

Tom
 
Thanks to all those who have sent tips and instructions, I’m going to do the sensible thing and get it done by timmus. One good thing to come out of this is the excellent how-to by devan, now there for all to read. Chris
 
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