New A2

As we've drifted into manifold and flaps etc.
Is there a quick easy way to see the intake valves and flaps with a borescope without taking top or both intake manifolds off?
I wanted to get photos of intake valves for carbon buildup and then put a cleaner through and look again after
 
Best advice I have is that you don’t need a good mechanic or an Audi mechanic or an Audi dealer. You need an expert mechanic who really understands FSIs, there are very, very few who do.
I travel to WOM with my FSIs when it’s outwith my ability and trailer them when they’re beyond driving. I’m in Aberdeen so it’s a fair haul, but they’re worth it.
I’m sure there are are other really good places for FSIs but I don’t know them.
Also I back up all the recommendations for getting a VCDS, they are essential

George
 
MickAli said:
As we've drifted into manifold and flaps etc.
Is there a quick easy way to see the intake valves and flaps with a borescope without taking top or both intake manifolds off?
I wanted to get photos of intake valves for carbon buildup and then put a cleaner through and look again after
Click to expand...
You’d have to at least take off the upper inlet manifold and then if you are doing that you are almost all the way to taking the lower inlet off anyway.
 
You can start with "suck it and see"
Attach a rubber tube to the vacum actuator, that provides the source of flap movement. Remove the tube that's on it, and fit yours, (about a meter, no less).
Then simply suck on the tube, to simulate the car's vacum. If the actuator is OK the shaft will move, about 15 mm. If it doesn't move, check the linkage that links to the flap crank. It may be broken, it's old and plastic. If it's broken, it may jam the actuator. Checking the linkage is step 2, after the actuator. If the actuator and linkage are OK, then you'll need to get the manifold off, probably needs a good clean, (brake cleaner is good).
It's all a quite basic mechanism, so don't be worried, (reading the SSP253 will help you).
That's enough for now, but maybe the suck it is something you could try?
Mac.
 

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@Radian

Good Evening Ian,

Before any work to remove the manifold check the function of the N316 valve, there is a good chance the problem is it has failed.

How to check it I have I not really thought about, inflated balloon????

Andy
 
If the suck test shows everything's moving, then could be no vacum.
N316 valve, which controls the vacum to the actuator, is main suspect.
Mac
 
MickAli said:
As we've drifted into manifold and flaps etc.
Is there a quick easy way to see the intake valves and flaps with a borescope without taking top or both intake manifolds off?
I wanted to get photos of intake valves for carbon buildup and then put a cleaner through and look again after
Click to expand...
It's difficult, (maybe impossible), to clean inlet valves in situ, as the injectors are after the valves.
It's not carbon, as in products of combustion, that get deposited on the inside of the inlet manifold. It's volatile elements of engine oil, via the PCV and EGR, and soot from the exhaust, again, via EGR. They condense together on the cooler inlet manifold to form a "varnish"
A coating of this varnish does little to affect the inlet path, but can limit the flap from a full arc, or stop them moving altogether. The P1031 indicates the flap movement is not what the ECU has called for. It doesn't, necessarily, mean they are not moving at all, just a degree or so short of set value will result in a P1031.
Use top quality oil, and high detergent fuel, (eg Shell V Power), to keep things clean.
Mac.
 
PlasticMac said:
It's difficult, (maybe impossible), to clean inlet valves in situ, as the injectors are after the valves.
It's not carbon, as in products of combustion, that get deposited on the inside of the inlet manifold. It's volatile elements of engine oil, via the PCV and EGR, and soot from the exhaust, again, via EGR. They condense together on the cooler inlet manifold to form a "varnish"
A coating of this varnish does little to affect the inlet path, but can limit the flap from a full arc, or stop them moving altogether. The P1031 indicates the flap movement is not what the ECU has called for. It doesn't, necessarily, mean they are not moving at all, just a degree or so short of set value will result in a P1031.
Use top quality oil, and high detergent fuel, (eg Shell V Power), to keep things clean.
Mac.
Click to expand...
Great info. I understand all that and it wasn't so much the manifold becoming 'varnished', but reading up on GDI mentions common issues with inlet valves getting carboned up and I wanted to get a look at their condition as a preventative thing.
Surely if the manifold is removed you can see the valve stems and seats? Not that i'm now going to go to the trouble of removing it unless I need to! There are cleaners that you spray down the manifold after the MAF that claim to clean the valve stems/seats and if I were to do that I'd want a before and after photo so others could see the results
 
MickAli said:
Great info. I understand all that and it wasn't so much the manifold becoming 'varnished', but reading up on GDI mentions common issues with inlet valves getting carboned up and I wanted to get a look at their condition as a preventative thing.
Surely if the manifold is removed you can see the valve stems and seats? Not that i'm now going to go to the trouble of removing it unless I need to! There are cleaners that you spray down the manifold after the MAF that claim to clean the valve stems/seats and if I were to do that I'd want a before and after photo so others could see the results
Click to expand...
Good Afternoon Mick,

With respect I suspect you are not fully appreciating the position of the valves. Look at the diagrams on page 6 of the SSP attached earlier and the pictures in this thread, a lovely read.

Project FSI - "The Yellow Peril"

Afternoon all, after being quiet for a while (I've been busy!!!) I'm starting a project/maintenance & fault finding thread about my FSI - the somewhat aptly named "Yellow Peril" by a friend (You'll find out why soon enough!). ? Hopefully in time this will add to an already really helpful...
www.a2oc.net www.a2oc.net

Andy
 
Andrew said:
Good Afternoon Mick,

With respect I suspect you are not fully appreciating the position of the valves. Look at the diagrams on page 6 of the SSP attached earlier and the pictures in this thread, a lovely read.

Project FSI - "The Yellow Peril"

Afternoon all, after being quiet for a while (I've been busy!!!) I'm starting a project/maintenance & fault finding thread about my FSI - the somewhat aptly named "Yellow Peril" by a friend (You'll find out why soon enough!). ? Hopefully in time this will add to an already really helpful...
www.a2oc.net www.a2oc.net

Andy
Click to expand...
Andy,
Yes I see and the yellow peril story shows the state of the inlet valves. I'll wait till a service is due then remove the manifold, clean it up and look with a borescope to see the state of the valves, I think that's certainly possible. After that it may be worth using one of the valve cleaners available because it requires an oil change straight after using them.
That's next year now though. Some bodywork to sort first!
Onwards 🙏
 
I'm very impressed by all the technical knowledge, Ill print all the advice, manual and discuss with the mechanic. It would probably make a good YouTube clip. I also get the impression that some mechanics have little knowledge of the FSI engine.
 
So, the suck test is fine and flap linkage also.
I got a KKL lead and vcds lite for now, but can anyone tell me if you can get 'live' flap data on vcds lite like a graph to show opening and closing, I'd just like to tick it off my checklist.
Mick
 
MickAli said:
So, the suck test is fine and flap linkage also.
I got a KKL lead and vcds lite for now, but can anyone tell me if you can get 'live' flap data on vcds lite like a graph to show opening and closing, I'd just like to tick it off my checklist.
Mick
Click to expand...
Not on the free version. You need to register it for $99 via the Ross-Tech website. They send you a "key" file, for one pc. You can change to another pc once only.
Or, you can consider the enthusiast, (lowest cost), version of the current version. If you do go for registred Lite, Ross-Tech will credit you if you subsequently upgrade to the full version. There are advantages. I'd suggest starting with the registered version, then see how you get on and how long you stay in the FSI fold.
Mac.
Then you can log the groups associated with the flaps. What error codes are you getting, when u scan the engine controller?
Mac.
 
Thanks Mac.
Yes I suspected that. I was really just curious to see a working graph/log, I don't have any fault codes on engine module and everything else looks perfect 👍
 
MickAli said:
Thanks Mac.
Yes I suspected that. I was really just curious to see a working graph/log, I don't have any fault codes on engine module and everything else looks perfect 👍
Click to expand...
Leave well alone, and keep your fingers crossed. Meanwhile, drive it, and enjoy it. FSIs like revs, Max torque at around 4000 rpm!
Mac.
 
Latest update is that the water in the expansion tank was bubbling like mad. A friend said not good news the head gasket has gone. He cleared a blockage in one of the pipes with his airline. Its all very strange as the water has stopped bubbling and I don't seem to be loosing water. In a morning the car seems to run fine ish for a time. I don't know if Ill be doing any damage driving it around. I will take it to the garage to get a price for the repairs.
 
You have said water in the expansion tank was bubbling like mad. Hope that you were using the term "water" for the correct coolant. Water boils at 100 degrees, FSI runs hotter than that by a good 10 degrees.
 
audifan said:
You have said water in the expansion tank was bubbling like mad. Hope that you were using the term "water" for the correct coolant. Water boils at 100 degrees, FSI runs hotter than that by a good 10 degrees.
Click to expand...
Not under pressure it doesn’t.
Did you see the bubbles with the expansion tank cap on, or off?
Mac.
 
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