Omg how many fault codes!!! Updated.

OK guys cleared last codes and some remained. Here is my new scan.
Can anyone help with translation and repairs.
Thank you so so much. Best group in the world.
 

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I had lots of fault codes and the ABS lights, this caused the engine to have reduced power (stability control kicking in) I pulled fuse 40 and the engine still lost power, this shows it’s an injector loom issue, that’s being changed this week.

Sorry scrub this, didn't notice it was a petrol, but I leave the comment in case it helps a TDI owner (Good Luck!).
 
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Concentrate on the O2 sensor and steering angle sensor. The latter could very easily be the cause of the ABS related issues due to the systems being linked. As this is a 1.4 PETROL engine not going to be the injector loom ( or at least the one on the diesel ).

Has the steering wheel been removed or replaced? Steering angle sensor A.K.A. clock spring connects the wheel to the car electrically.

The locks could be a failing CCCU unit or the 4 locks have issues and the loudspeaker possibly a loose connection or damaged wire.

About time some of our 1.4 petrol owners came up with more help.
 
I would second Audifan with the CCCU unit and the door furniture I ve seen that alot on this forum. My car has one door lock that cycles everytime i start. Often its dry joints inthe control module or lock I understand, but all doors at same time must be the CCU surely. LEave it till last though
 
Hi @audifan really appreciate your response and help.
I am not massively technically minded so wanted to ask, from research I have read that the o2 sensor is at the front and back of car. Is that right.
Do my fault codes show which one it is.
Also is an o2 sensor the same as a lamda sensor.
Is the part expensive and is it costly in labour to replace.
Also (sorry) can I buy a second hand angle sensor or and will. It resolve the problem or the one I have be repaired. Thank you so much for your help.
Regards
Jimmy
 
Hi @audifan really appreciate your response and help.
I am not massively technically minded so wanted to ask, from research I have read that the o2 sensor is at the front and back of car. Is that right.
Do my fault codes show which one it is.
Also is an o2 sensor the same as a lamda sensor.
Is the part expensive and is it costly in labour to replace.
Also (sorry) can I buy a second hand angle sensor or and will. It resolve the problem or the one I have be repaired. Thank you so much for your help.
Regards
Jimmy
If it is what I think it is, we are talking about part 13 or (13) in the AUA engine section on this 7zap page - both are lambda sensors.

Have a look at the following thread at A2oc that has been here since 2007 - the code suggests the front lambda (pre-catalyst).



part number - 036 906 265 J (pre-catalyst) or 036 906 265 H (post-catalyst).

The pre-cat one at least is relatively accessible on the exhaust manifold (behind the heat shield?) at the front of the engine as you stand with the bonnet taken off.

see part 1A, it should be situated in the round (threaded?) hole immediately above the catalyst pot, although the lambda is not in situ in this image.

The post-catalyst one is visible on this diagram :


part 13.

As far as prices are concerned - take the above part numbers in red, and put them into Ebay or another online search engine. There are various different ones, prices from as low as ~£50 up to somewhat more than this. Be careful about the pre-cat to post-cat distinction, the latter are much cheaper but would not be suitable for the precat application.

A cheap new one will generally be better than a knackered old one, but 'buy cheap, buy twice' is often true as well. Best of luck!
 
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if you pull fuse 40, does it change behaviour?
From the fault codes, I'd now head towards a possible ABS controller failure and / or the steering angle sensor. Rosstech has a couple of suggestions for reading the setup here: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/00778

would also suggest a basic setting of the angle sensor before going too much further, that *might* help.

. Bret
 
Also my steering wheel is not straight either. Is that connected to the steering angle sensor. Maybe someone did have steering wheel off.
 
Also my steering wheel is not straight either. Is that connected to the steering angle sensor. Maybe someone did have steering wheel off.
Evening Jimmy,

This could well be your issue. If the steering wheel isn’t correctly positioned within the steering angle sensor/slip ring range then this will throw up ABS type faults.

Not saying it’ll completely cure all your faults but you need to get the steering whee straight. It will then clear the G85 fault and then just take it from there.

You may need to conduct a steering angle sensor calibration but not sure if you can do this with an unregistered VCDS Lite, can anyone else comment ?

Kind regards,

Tom
 
Hi Tom I have a registered version now but not entirely sure how to calibrate the steering angle sensor once sttering wheel is straightened.
 
Hi Tom I have a registered version now but not entirely sure how to calibrate the steering angle sensor once sttering wheel is straightened.
Jimmy,

Just dealing with Dinner. Give me half hour and I’ll dig out a great link for you on how to do the calibration. The steering wheel only needs to be 2-3 splines off to produce the G85 fault.

First uk though is to get your steering wheel straight and true as it might not even need calibration.

Kind regards,

Tom
 
If it is what I think it is, we are talking about part 13 or (13) in the AUA engine section on this 7zap page - both are lambda sensors.

Have a look at the following thread at A2oc that has been here since 2007 - the code suggests the front lambda (pre-catalyst).



part number - 036 906 265 J (pre-catalyst) or 036 906 265 H (post-catalyst).

The pre-cat one at least is relatively accessible on the exhaust manifold (behind the heat shield?) at the front of the engine as you stand with the bonnet taken off.

see part 1A, it should be situated in the round (threaded?) hole immediately above the catalyst pot, although the lambda is not in situ in this image.

The post-catalyst one is visible on this diagram :


part 13.

As far as prices are concerned - take the above part numbers in red, and put them into Ebay or another online search engine. There are various different ones, prices from as low as ~£50 up to somewhat more than this. Be careful about the pre-cat to post-cat distinction, the latter are much cheaper but would not be suitable for the precat application.

A cheap new one will generally be better than a knackered old one, but 'buy cheap, buy twice' is often true as well. Best of luck!
Thank you so much for an amazing detailed report
 
Jimmy,

Just dealing with Dinner. Give me half hour and I’ll dig out a great link for you on how to do the calibration. The steering wheel only needs to be 2-3 splines off to produce the G85 fault.

First uk though is to get your steering wheel straight and true as it might not even need calibration.

Kind regards,

Tom
Could the steering wheel being off centre, be down to poor tracking setup? My TT was off, and getting tracking done by a real specialist alignment shop corrected this.
Mac.
 
Could the steering wheel being off centre, be down to poor tracking setup? My TT was off, and getting tracking done by a real specialist alignment shop corrected this.
Mac.
Yes might try that first as if I hold steering wheel visually straight, the car veers off to the right.
 
Is the steering wheel in the normal position when the car is driven in a straight line? If the answer is no, the wheel is offset while driving straight. Then one of two things has happened. either someone has messed up the tracking to leave the wheel offset, or the steering wheel has been off and not replaced correctly. Either way COWBOYS.

This issue is if the wheel has been off and they did not know what they were doing. The steering angle sensor ( clock spring ) needs to be correctly calibrated to the steering. As you can imagine if the steering angle sensor is seeing a constant turn to the left for example it then thinks the car is potentially in a skid to the left. This will then send signals to the linked systems of ABS and ASR. The other sensors are probably saying no the car is not in a skid and the conflict puts on a warning light or two.
 
Is the steering wheel in the normal position when the car is driven in a straight line? If the answer is no, the wheel is offset while driving straight. Then one of two things has happened. either someone has messed up the tracking to leave the wheel offset, or the steering wheel has been off and not replaced correctly. Either way COWBOYS.

This issue is if the wheel has been off and they did not know what they were doing. The steering angle sensor ( clock spring ) needs to be correctly calibrated to the steering. As you can imagine if the steering angle sensor is seeing a constant turn to the left for example it then thinks the car is potentially in a skid to the left. This will then send signals to the linked systems of ABS and ASR. The other sensors are probably saying no the car is not in a skid and the conflict puts on a warning light or two.
Great info @audifan i think maybe I should get my front wheels aligned but don't think they will adjust my steering wheel as well.
 
Hello again Jimmy,

Looks like you’ve got the attention of multiple members now. Think you’re well on the way to solving your issues with great collective support.

Should you need to calibrate your steering angle sensor to rid the G85 fault check this link out. Get your steering wheel straight and true then some of your faults might just clear.

Kind regards,

Tom
 
As the car drives OK, personally I would move the steering wheel on its mounting splines. Rather than go for a wheel alignment as this would only mask a steering wheel issue. I would also ensure when the wheel is off that the clock spring is correctly indexed with the road wheels straight ahead.. If not then it will get more complex....If the clock spring is incorrect then that will have to also be corrected and calibrated in VCDS.

The wheel would then be refitted for dead ahead, the bolt correctly torqued, the air bag refitted after connecting its wiring loom and the battery reconnected. NEVER EVER WORK ON AIR BAGS WITH THE BATTERY CONNECTED. Think of them as a loaded gun and YOU are looking down the barrel!!!!!!!!
 
Thank you all for your amazing support. I will get wheels aligned first the move into steering wheel and go from there. Thanks again.
 
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