Open to the floor

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Hi All,

Recently I removed a few body panel and both doors. It took some time getting the alignment right but it's worth the extra effort.

-The Sill and Trim-​

Refitting the sill and trim pieces is tedious.
If your fitting new rear brake lines remove the lower row of sill screws and heat it and bend to get access. Hope that works🤞
20240228_130800.jpg

20240314_143908.jpg

I snapped all the lower clips on the drivers side longer trim piece.

After puzzling for a while I came up with a plan to drill 2 side by side 2mm holes and remove the piece inbetween with the the drill bit to erode away at it.

20240314_143919.jpg

The image is the lower tab minus the triangular end piece that was once the trim mount clip. I won't spend money on new plastic parts the worlds already got enough of that laying about.
I came up with a rescue plan that was acceptable but slightly destructive. Out came the cable ties and Lidl drill.

20240314_143832.jpg

First off some cable tie sized holes in the raised sections of the sill near to where the trim attatches. The small cable ties were pushed up through from inside the sill.
20240314_143752.jpg

A hole was made in the trim and the two halves test fitted off the car to see if the plan would work.

20240314_143737.jpg

The sill was mounted on the car with two of the top body mounting screws done up half way. The cable ties were pushed through the trim and looped back and done up under the sill.

20240314_161306.jpg

If you have needle nose piers you may need them to join the cable tie together.

Did I mention don't take the sills off the car unless you fancy buying a full set of plastic trim parts from Audi Tradition.

These are definite candidate for the 3D printer but probably too long to make.

Good Luck!

Edit
Just a quick note to say the above is is not a set of instructions and I'm no mechanic. 😁👍
 
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This afternoon I washes the car after this mornings VCDS brake bleed session.

20240315_163749.jpg20240315_163759.jpg20240315_163846.jpg20240315_163831.jpg

It requires going over with a clay bar to remove the Yorkshire smog and then some paint protection.

20240315_170243.jpg

The wheels and tyres are just temporary.
 
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Progress on the car has slowed as most of the work is complete (21/03/24).

You can find my post about the o-rings, gaskets, hoses and other air intake related components in the engine bay here.

20240327_083045.jpg
 
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20240327_153559-COLLAGE.jpg


Hi all,
The car has been dropped off at the neighbourhood garage for a MOT today, Wednesday, March 27. They will examine the engine to ensure proper installation, and a document will be issued if all is well. This is what the insurance company underwriters have requested.


Compression Test⛽​
I've been checking to see if the car is up to par for the past six days since I last updated the post.
I eventually got around to running a compression test a little late in the day, despite @Little Dog's recommendation. Good results were obtained, with all four cylinders reaching 14 bar, the engine's upper limit being 15 bar.
20240317_155418-COLLAGE[1].jpg
Next was sump removal to check the oil pick-up tube didn't have a blockage made from broken dip stick ends. I only managed to round one head on a sump bolt, which was my fault for not disconnecting the exhaust before I tried to remove it.
20240322_211903-COLLAGE[1].jpg
The pan was cleaned and reassembled with room temperature vulcanizing sealant (RTV), and the engine was filled with golden Castrol Edge.
20240324_104402.jpg
I was reading, 'A scare today followed timing belt change and oil drain!!' by @datsundrew. I risked it and started the engine; thankfully, there was compression, and it fired up immediately.
 
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Ignition🎇​

Ever since the gaskets and seals were replaced, the engine has been operating flawlessly. I purposely left the car running as I went about weeding the garden. I wanted to check that the coolant fan switch was operating correctly. Everything went according to plan, but after around thirty minutes, the engine started to stumble and splutter.

VCDS came to the rescue; however, the check engine light was the only indicator of a problem. I believe misfire detection has been turned off, although I could be wrong. The VCDS measurement blocks reported that misfire detection was deactivated, if that is a thing?. I anticipated the ignition system would be worn and had already purchased coil packs and spark plugs.

20240317_154639-COLLAGE[1].jpg
Broken ignition coil

After fitting the parts, the engine worked.

20240318_144946[1].jpg
Coil Packs
 
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The dipstick has an o-ring around the collar to seal and seat it in the holder located on the slam panel. I had put a fresh o-ring on mine and after checking the engine oil level, the stick was seated in the holder but would not stay there. This got me thinking, so I wrote a short post about fixing the problem. Click the link above in red to view it.

20240324_180602.jpg20240324_180700.jpg20240324_182724.jpg

The strip was missing from the car. I started a new post to collate information so I knew where the foam was located under the scuttle plastic trim piece.

The discussion is here.
20240405_201106.jpg
Audi tradition part number

8Z0863435, Sealing Strip(Self-Adhesive)​

 
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rotifer said:

Ignition​

Ever since the gaskets and seals were replaced, the engine has been operating flawlessly. I purposely left the car running as I went about weeding the garden. I wanted to check that the coolant fan switch was operating correctly. Everything went according to plan, but after around thirty minutes, the engine started to stumble and splutter.

VCDS came to the rescue; however, the check engine light was the only indicator of a problem. I believe misfire detection has been turned off, although I could be wrong. The VCDS measurement blocks reported that misfire detection was deactivated, if that is a thing?. I anticipated the ignition system would be worn and had already purchased coil packs and spark plugs.

View attachment 121369
Broken ignition coil

After fitting the parts, the engine worked.

View attachment 121364
Coil Packs
Click to expand...
I'll check later, but I think there are conditions that have to be met for misfire detection to be active.
Mac.
 
rotifer said:
Thank you 👍
Click to expand...
This is where to look, I suspect it depends on the settings in Group 018. Couldn't see anything in engine coding relating to misfire counter.
Interesting to know what Group 018 shows.
Mac.

014,0,Ignition (Misfire Recognition - Total)
014,1,Engine Speed,(G28),Range: 0...5700 RPM\nSpecification (Idle): 650...850 RPM
014,2,Engine Load,,Range: 0.0...100.0 %\nSpecification (Idle): 10.0...27.0 %
014,3,Misfire Counter,,Specification: 0
014,4,Misfire,Recognition,Range: Disabled/Enabled
;
015,0,Ignition (Misfire Recognition - Cylinder 1-3)
015,1,Misfire Counter,Cylinder 1,Specification: 0
015,2,Misfire Counter,Cylinder 2,Specification: 0
015,3,Misfire Counter,Cylinder 3,Specification: 0
015,4,Misfire,Recognition,Range: Active/Disabled
;
016,0,Ignition (Misfire Recognition - Cylinder 4-6)
016,1,Misfire Counter,Cylinder 4,Specification: 0
016,4,Misfire,Recognition,Range: Active/Disabled
;
018,0,Ignition (Misfire Recognition - RPM/Load Barriers)
018,1,Lower,RPM Barrier
018,2,Upper,RPM Barrier
018,3,Lower,Load Barrier,Range: 0.0...100.0 %
018,4,Upper,Load Barrier,Range: 0.0...100.0 %
 
Project Cost (27/03/24)​

The efficiency of the build project depended on my personal resources (money and technological know-how), as well as the decreased availability and choice of products in the UK market since the exit from the EU.
I think it will be of value to others if I provide a general estimate of what to expect to pay in the spring of 2024.
I will have accidentally left several things off the list, so the actual cost is probably 10% more than the current total.
 

Attachments

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-Interior Clean-​

20240326_133350.jpg

The day before the MOT the inside of the car was cleaned. Focus was on the seats and carpets. The foot wells under the aluminium covers collect crumbs, bits of broken glass and small stones.
Because the car lived in London in a previous life and has been driven 1/4 of a million miles a fine soot covers all hidden surfaces.

Both the seat belts had stopped retracting they needed to be removed for cleaning the webbing was degreased with a mix of water CIF and a nail brush. Once the brown muck had stopped flowing out they were put on the radiator to dry.
Both belts function perfectly now they are clean.

20240328_052417-COLLAGE.jpg
I had not used a drill mounted valet brush before. There is no going back.
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These are the front seats before being cleaned.
A sunny and breezy day, perfect conditions for drying.

The gear shift mechanism was replaced with the 2nd hand part I had removed from the low mile scrap car.

The plastic trim central tunnel and cubby cleaned up well. I used a damp cloth with cleaning vinagar followed by Autoglym rubber and plastic protector.
20240326_155001.jpg
 
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As one Bolton steeplejack may have said sometime in the past,

“Why did I do it? Well, I did it to demonstrate what can be achieved, like...”.

The End
 
Final Credit​

Thank you to everyone who has read and followed along with me on this journey.

Thank you to all who participated.

You have been watching in order of appearance.
  • Red Colour Storm KA05 JYS
  • Blue SE CV05 HVT
 
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