PO299, breakdown, N75 and vacuum hoses

nyorker

Member
Hi all
my jerkiness when accelerating hard in 3rd or 4th or driving uphill has deteriorated suddenly to the stage where it broke down completely on a dual carriage way with no hard shoulder and my 4yr old in the back seat.

some other symptoms that I had just prior to the breakdown included
  • a p0299 (under boost warning)
  • when I took my foot off the accelerator the engine would still run on for a second or so before power was reduced.
  • after breaking down it would be very difficult to restart, sometime cranking for 30 seconds before it would fire.

I limped to a VW/Audia specialist nearby by stopping, switching off/on driving, stopping, on/off etc.

They were very helpful, put it on a ramp, took the under tray off and within 20 mins concluded there was a problem with the N75. They said tandem was OK, diaphragm on EGR (I think) was ok. they said it would be £540 to replace but the part was on back order and could take months or never for it to turn up from Audi.

I limped home and ordered a 2nd hand one from ebay, it's ( 6Q0906625F ) for the BHC engine and sits against the left hand side wing, it has 4 or 5 pipes leaving from it and a cable.

since I had a cheap Bluetooth odb2 thing connected from the day before the breakdown to read and cancel the P0299 I monitored some stats driving home from the garage. I recorded some stats including accelrator/speed and MAP (manifold pressure). The slower I got, the more accelerator I used but the MAP kept dropping despite demand for more air/fuel until it died. Sometimes it might recover to normal for a minute or two before it happens again.

I have been buying some lights from A2Steve and tried to buy a N75 from him but he didnt have one but he has been very helpful and suggested it is more likely to be a split/loose hose than N75.

  • Therefore I want to buy some replacement hose to fit while I change the N75, does anyone know the ID and OD of a suitable vacuum hose?
  • What are people's thoughts about the graphs below, does that tie in with a faulty N75 or a hose leaking or something else like a wastegate, EGR or anti shudder etc?

One graph shows the accelerator at 100% but the MAP and MAF steadily declining, the other shows me increasing accelerator to try and fight the dropping MAP.
 

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Hi
I know that had been suggested before by members for this problem so I bought a replacement filter to fit myself but before I fitted it I found a receipt for a full service that was done 12 months ago prior to me being given the car, the receipt says that the fuel filter was changed. so unless they charged for it but didnt actually fit it I would say about 16 months or 6k miles ago.

Lawrie
 
Hi
I know that had been suggested before by members for this problem so I bought a replacement filter to fit myself but before I fitted it I found a receipt for a full service that was done 12 months ago prior to me being given the car, the receipt says that the fuel filter was changed. so unless they charged for it but didnt actually fit it I would say about 16 months or 6k miles ago.

Lawrie

It's possible it wasn't changed.

I would take the following course of action eliminating one thing at a time until the issue goes :-

1. change the fuel filter
2. check all of the intercooler and boost hoses for splits
3. check all of the vacuum lines for perishing/splits
4. fit that N75 you have seeing as you've paid for it.
5. Check the wastegate isn't seized
6. check for oil leaks on the turbo
7. Clean the maf sensor
8. Replace the map sensor

After that i'm all out of ideas.
 
OK, found a little time to do a few jobs today...

Changing the N75 was fiddly as the small screws were difficult to reach with freezing hands. It made an instant difference to some of the problems in a limited test drive (engine running on after lifting foot from the accelerator and breaking down/not starting well), alas still had the problem with juddering uphill or hard acceleration in 3rd or 4th.

Did the fuel filter after that and when I was almost finished reassembling and looking forward to a test drive hopeful of the problem being fixed as a load of crud came out of the old filter. I was attaching the 10mm bleed valve centre plug with very little torque I felt a snap and it wouldn't tighten, just kept spinning, I guess the centre part has snapped. I haven't taken it off to check as I thought I would get the part first.

I am not too worried about the bleed operation of the small grub screw, what's the best/easiest/cheapest way of fixing?

1. change the fuel filter - in progress until I snapped the bleed valve when reassembling DOHHH
2. check all of the intercooler and boost hoses for splits - Checked . no obvious splits or patched of oil being blown out of a split in intercooler
3. check all of the vacuum lines for perishing/splits - all the ones that were easily visible seemed in good condition
4. fit that N75 you have seeing as you've paid for it. - Fitted it. Hoses around the N75 seemed in good order, not sure what they are like around the back near turbo, EGr etc.... Made an instant difference to the engine not running on after lifting foot from accelerator.
5. Check the wastegate isn't seized - TODO
6. check for oil leaks on the turbo - TODO
7. Clean the maf sensor - TODO
8. Replace the map sensor - TODO
 
All fixed. N75 cleared the issue with the accelerator not backing off when the foot taken off the accelerator and low boost turbo type messages and a new fuel filter fixed the lumpy throttle.

Shes running like a dream.

Thank you to everyone for your help and advice.

Eventually I will stop smelling of diesel.
 
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