Rear brake drums

A

A2Tone

Member
Hi all,
What would cause the rear brake shoes to look like this??
I thought it may be a cylinder leak.
What do you think?
 

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Yes, you can see it leaking on the left shoe where it meets the cylinder. Mine were way worse and needed new shoes. Yours seems to be salvagable šŸ˜‰
 
Thanks for the confirmation BigBang and will buy new cylinders and shoes (if possible to get cylinders) to be on the safe side.... šŸ˜Š
 
I bout
A2Tone said:
Thanks for the confirmation BigBang and will buy new cylinders and shoes (if possible to get cylinders) to be on the safe side.... šŸ˜Š
Click to expand...
I bought the Bosch kit
www.autodoc.co.uk

Brake Set, drum brakes BOSCH KIT SUPERPRO 0 204 114 546 with accessories, with wheel brake cylinder ā€” Buy now!

Buy BOSCH KIT SUPERPRO 0204114546 Brake Set, drum brakes with accessories, with wheel brake cylinder at low cost ā— RRP: Ā£ 79,94 ā€” Our price: Ā£ 67,95 ā€” you save 26% ā— Buy now ā—
www.autodoc.co.uk www.autodoc.co.uk
It includes the cylinders. I haven't checked the box but the pictures suggest the bolt that fixes the cylinder is not included. Mine (most) are very corroded and I had to dremel it off. Not been able to find the Audi part (N90818302 I think) in the UK.

I'm also changing the plastic slider pads and rubber bungs in the back plate. Sliders can be found but most sellers are charging an arm and a leg. I think the cheapest I saw was cĀ£8 for a set of 12.​
 
Bo
A2Tone said:
Thanks for the confirmation BigBang and will buy new cylinders and shoes (if possible to get cylinders) to be on the safe side.... šŸ˜Š
Click to expand...
Bought my fully assembled Bosch kit online through the GSF web page. The plastic inserts via a indy garage VW / TPS. Sounds about the right price.
 
Cylinders are normally selling as they are same for Fabia, Polo, Ibiza (if I am not mistaken). Only be aware that you buy the correct cylinders and not ones for 3L version šŸ˜‰

I wish you luck with removing the brake line from the cylinder. Mine were impossible to undo...
 
BigBang said:
I wish you luck with removing the brake line from the cylinder. Mine were impossible to undo...
Click to expand...
Yes by now the rust may have eaten through that part and stuck together, BUT there could be a way, like how the cylinders were changed on mine.

Instead of trying to remove the cylinder first, after all the parts inside have been removed, (except the middle big bolt, as that needs to be replaced and torqued properly every time being removed) try to untwist the whole cover plate!
It's not easy to spin it all around, but it's doable, carefully move the brake pipes though.
When you spin the plate, you'll unsrew the cylinder as well, but you'll have to realign it when adding the new one! Still better than not being able to change it.

I've seen this method on a YT, and a mechanic repeated on my A2 both sides as well.

When that's all done, you must bleed the brakes, a lot of air will be trapped!
Good time to bleed the fluid completely if necessary from all cylinders, also don't forget it's the same reservoir for the clutch. The clutch bleeding nipple is in the engine, next to the transmission weight, here's a screenshot of Mtl'sGarage YT tutorial, he's got a video about the whole process.
It's covered with rubber cap, and the top is plastic so gotta handle it carefully.
Screenshot_20230731_112620_YouTube.jpg
 
Last edited:
Sylvester said:
Yes by now the rust may have eaten through that part and stuck together, BUT there could be a way, like how the cylinders were changed on mine.

Instead of trying to remove the cylinder first, after all the parts inside have been removed, (except the middle big bolt, as that needs to be replaced and torqued properly every time being removed) try to untwist the whole cover plate!
It's not easy to spin it all around, but it's doable, carefully move the brake pipes though.
When you spin the plate, you'll unsrew the cylinder as well, but you'll have to realign it when adding the new one! Still better than not being able to change it.
...
Click to expand...

In theory yes but in my case I stripped the nut even when I was using the wrench for brake lines...
 
Thanks everyone for your replys and invaluable information..
You are right about the brakepipe connector being seized so i managed to spin the brake cylinder and remove it that way.
My issue now is that the new cylinders must have the threads at a different place on the clock from the old cylinders.
This means that when i spin the cylinders onto the brakepipe through the backplate, the holes don't then line up when nipped up because of the seizure of the connector...
The easiest way,i can think of, is to use the original brake piston outer casing and recondition the inner workings...
Unless anyone knows a way of freeing the brake pipe connector from the pipe itself.
Its the only time that I've come up against this problem..
 
A2Tone said:
Thanks everyone for your replys and invaluable information..
You are right about the brakepipe connector being seized so i managed to spin the brake cylinder and remove it that way.
My issue now is that the new cylinders must have the threads at a different place on the clock from the old cylinders.
This means that when i spin the cylinders onto the brakepipe through the backplate, the holes don't then line up when nipped up because of the seizure of the connector...
The easiest way,i can think of, is to use the original brake piston outer casing and recondition the inner workings...
Unless anyone knows a way of freeing the brake pipe connector from the pipe itself.
Its the only time that I've come up against this problem..
Click to expand...
Heat is the best option

Still testing it but atf and acetone 50/50 mix might just be the best releasing fluid there is
 
A2Tone said:
Thanks everyone for your replys and invaluable information..
You are right about the brakepipe connector being seized so i managed to spin the brake cylinder and remove it that way.
My issue now is that the new cylinders must have the threads at a different place on the clock from the old cylinders.
This means that when i spin the cylinders onto the brakepipe through the backplate, the holes don't then line up when nipped up because of the seizure of the connector...
The easiest way,i can think of, is to use the original brake piston outer casing and recondition the inner workings...
Unless anyone knows a way of freeing the brake pipe connector from the pipe itself.
Its the only time that I've come up against this problem..
Click to expand...
Pain that it is, I could only buy the long side brake pipe from Autod*c which if your in a rush is no help. The other side snapped but my local garage made a new one from copper pipe and pretty much to shape using the old one I took with me, cost me about Ā£15 which got me out of jail.
 
If you cut away the siezed nut right where it ends, there is enough pipe left for new nut and new pipe end šŸ˜‰ just an info when you don't have available new pipe
 
A2Tone said:
Thanks everyone for your replys and invaluable information..
You are right about the brakepipe connector being seized so i managed to spin the brake cylinder and remove it that way.
My issue now is that the new cylinders must have the threads at a different place on the clock from the old cylinders.
This means that when i spin the cylinders onto the brakepipe through the backplate, the holes don't then line up when nipped up because of the seizure of the connector...
Click to expand...
If the misalignement is small a tiny twist of the brake pipe could be enough. Else I would recommend to bite the dust and fabricate a new brake pipe from CuNi (rather than pure Cu).
 
Before you fit your newly formed brake pipes a lite smear of grease on the pipe inside the fitting (not on the flares) and male threads will ensure you never have this problem again. Make sure the female threads are dry of brake fluid especially if the cylinders are the aluminium variety.
 
Thanks all for your comments...
On the passenger side (R/H Drive car) i ended up fabricating a new brake pipe and fitting a new steel brake cylinder.
Where as on the drivers side i replaced the seals within the original (steel) brake cylinder.. I also fitted the rear brake fitting kit, which comprised of new springs, brake shoe holders (2xpins,springs and slotted, cupped washers).
Also i ended up changing the brake fluid as i was bleeding the rears brakes as it was...
Thanks again to all who commented and to all who contribute to the community..
 
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