TDI Timing belt question

Howey said:
4 mm with 1 mm tolerance

Incidentally it is possible to convert a hydraulic set up to friction, there's a detailed post on here
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I am seriously considering the conversion, just afraid the hold or thread are filled with rust.
 
IvanTang said:
True, just want minimise the risk of mucking things up as I haven’t tap anything before, what’s the size of tap I should look for?
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The hole is already there so the tap would simply screw in and remove any surface corrosion so highly unlikely you could mess it up!
To be honest I don't know the tap size, would guess M8 x 1. 5 but that's a pure guess
 
IvanTang said:
I am seriously considering the conversion, just afraid the hold or thread are filled with rust.
Click to expand...
Why complicate things and create potential problems for no gain?

Keep things standard and therefore as straight forward as possible 👍
 
IvanTang said:

Audi Workshop Service and Repair Manuals > A2 > Power unit | 3-cyl. diesel direct injection engine (1.2 ltr. TDI), mechanics | Enginecrankshaft group, pistons | Servicing work on pulley end | Removing and installing toothed belt

A2 > Audi Workshop Service and Repair Manuals > Power unit | 3-cyl. diesel direct injection engine (1.2 ltr. TDI), mechanics | Enginecrankshaft group, pistons | Servicing work on pulley end | Removing and installing toothed belt
workshop-manuals.com

Find this workshop-manual about replacing Tdi timing belt, one thing I have noticed different to Gina's video, the belt tensioner gap ( dimension between tensioner pully and hydraulic tensioner), in this manual it says 7mm + - 1mm, in Gina's video the subtitle say it's 4mm + - 1mm.
Which one should be correct?
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do you know which type is in your car? old or new type of tensioner?
 
Howey said:
Incidentally it is possible to convert a hydraulic set up to friction, there's a detailed post on here
Click to expand...
Would you have the details please?
I have been rejecting hydraulic damped AMF engines because when I looked into conversion the block needs machining. The required tapped hole is very close to an existing tapped hole so the conversion is not recommended?
Edit, I found it via Google search https://www.a2oc.net/community/inde...ersion-hydraulic-to-mechanical-1-4-tdi.50643/
 
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philward said:
Would you have the details please?
I have been rejecting hydraulic damped AMF engines because when I looked into conversion the block needs machining. The required tapped hole is very close to an existing tapped hole so the conversion is not recommended?
Edit, I found it via Google search https://www.a2oc.net/community/inde...ersion-hydraulic-to-mechanical-1-4-tdi.50643/
Click to expand...
According to the "thread" lol it is already machined? Never looked myself thou but very interested!
 
Howey said:
According to the "thread" lol it is already machined? Never looked myself thou but very interested!
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I’m very interested too. I’ve turned down several good cheap hydraulically tensioned AMFs that it looks like I could have made use of and had my A2 sorted. I’ll ask more questions on my own thread on this subject.
 
Howey said:
For me as with all cars the tyres are the eyes to sole or R sole as the case maybe!
Condition, brand (matched on axles) and wear.
Coolant wants to be a vibrant pink/orange and not rusty!!
The belly undertray been present is a good sign someone has cared for it!
Condition of cabin filter can tell I lot about maintenance or lack of!
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IvanTang said:
02 Plate is the later one or earlier one? I have been searching online for a bit, but not successful to find a video with clear clear step by step instruction, am I using wrong key word? Thank you very much for the info, really appreciated!
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Just pop off the top plastic cover (two clips) and after some wiggling it will be clear to see which tensioner you have.
 
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