Yes, Febi brand, they're a pain to get in.Did you use OEM bushes?
Hi Simufly ... that's not a tool chest that's an art installation ???Cleaned out my tool chest. View attachment 64303View attachment 64304
The guide pins are meant to go through the subframe consoles before the subframe is fully loosened. Remove 2 bolts replace with guide bolts then the other 2 ,this is to pin the position of the subframe to prevent the need for wheel alignment after repair.The outer of the guide pin should be the same diameter as the subframe bolt holes the collars allow for off centre movement.Hope this helps for next time.?Just another little job completed today on my 2002 1.4 BBY project Resurgam.
Aligning the sub-frame assembly to the chassis.
Guide pins arrived from eBay (£15 including p&p), the tools are at the ready and off we go:
View attachment 64192
Essential Torque wrench, axle stands, extra jack and grease for the pins.
View attachment 64193
1. Disconnected the bottom joint between the drop links and the anti - roll bar.
2. Loosened the four new bolts that thread through the sub-frame, consoles and hold the steering rack in place, they weren't torqued yet and maybe didn't need to do this but I didn't want to risk swinging on anything when the car was on the axle stands should I have needed to at a later stage.
3. Loosened the four console stretch bolts that were only partially tightened when I installed the new arms (18mm socket).
4. The car was then jacked up onto axle stands and the four bolts that hold the console in place were removed.
5. The sub-frame is now free to move in any direction you wish, it's still connected to the car via the dampers and steering joints and moves around easily.
View attachment 64194
6. There is enough 'give' in the assembly to be able to carefully push down on each front wheel allowing enough room to insert the four guide pins. The flat edge of the taper sits in the centre of the hole (and not as shown in the first picture, the taper should be the other way round) and the 6 mm hex head bolt screws into the captive nut to hold it in position. Tighten to 20 NM as per instructions.
7. The hard bit is almost done ... I found it easier to jack the sub frame upwards into position and protected it with a piece of timber ... it was not difficult to manoeuvre the assembly around and basically the console holes will slot and position over the taper on the guide pins. Keep jacking the assembly upwards until all the gaps are closed and they will align themselves with the pins and in theory the correct position. Possibly easier if you have a second person to simply jiggle and hold the sub-frame in place ... but a second jack worked fine.
8. Take each guide pin out in turn and replace each with a new stretch bolt. I tightened to 70 NM at this stage until the torque wrench clicked..
9. Reconnected the drop links and tightened the four steering rack bolts that were loosened earlier.
10. Back on four wheels and stretched each of the four console bolts a further 90 degrees.
11. Job done ... and they look centred and vertical, always a good place to start!!
View attachment 64195
Looking good and ready to roll!!
Steering alignment to check when I take it for a test drive and then make sure all the bolts have remained tight.
View attachment 64196
Next job is to replace the rear coolant pipe, thermostat and housing, only just ordered the parts and will tackle it when they arrive.
Thanks for reading and hopefully it may inspire someone to do this simple and satisfying job. Regards from Tom
Hi. How did you treat the axle may I ask? Gavanised or power coated or plain paint?Today, we finished our recent project, a rear brake conversion. Over the past few weeks, the axle has been refurbished, ...........
The guide pins are meant to go through the subframe consoles before the subframe is fully loosened. Remove 2 bolts replace with guide bolts then the other 2 ,this is to pin the position of the subframe to prevent the need for wheel alignment after repair.The outer of the guide pin should be the same diameter as the subframe bolt holes the collars allow for off centre movement.Hope this helps for next time.?
I used galvafroid paint, and then black paint. I did sand it down first though to get rid of imperfections and to help the paint stick.Hi. How did you treat the axle may I ask? Gavanised or power coated or plain paint?
... (well, yesterday), I started thinking on how to get my first A2 (not SHE) equipped with cruice control. I had removed this stalk from an VW Sharan on a breaker yard earlier, and now I had to make the harness from the new stalk to the engine ECU.
View attachment 64312
Do you have a link to the ebay ad for the guide pins pleaseJust another little job completed today on my 2002 1.4 BBY project Resurgam.
Aligning the sub-frame assembly to the chassis.
Guide pins arrived from eBay (£15 including p&p), the tools are at the ready and off we go:
View attachment 64192
Essential Torque wrench, axle stands, extra jack and grease for the pins.
View attachment 64193
1. Disconnected the bottom joint between the drop links and the anti - roll bar.
2. Loosened the four new bolts that thread through the sub-frame, consoles and hold the steering rack in place, they weren't torqued yet and maybe didn't need to do this but I didn't want to risk swinging on anything when the car was on the axle stands should I have needed to at a later stage.
3. Loosened the four console stretch bolts that were only partially tightened when I installed the new arms (18mm socket).
4. The car was then jacked up onto axle stands and the four bolts that hold the console in place were removed.
5. The sub-frame is now free to move in any direction you wish, it's still connected to the car via the dampers and steering joints and moves around easily.
View attachment 64194
6. There is enough 'give' in the assembly to be able to carefully push down on each front wheel allowing enough room to insert the four guide pins. The flat edge of the taper sits in the centre of the hole (and not as shown in the first picture, the taper should be the other way round) and the 6 mm hex head bolt screws into the captive nut to hold it in position. Tighten to 20 NM as per instructions.
7. The hard bit is almost done ... I found it easier to jack the sub frame upwards into position and protected it with a piece of timber ... it was not difficult to manoeuvre the assembly around and basically the console holes will slot and position over the taper on the guide pins. Keep jacking the assembly upwards until all the gaps are closed and they will align themselves with the pins and in theory the correct position. Possibly easier if you have a second person to simply jiggle and hold the sub-frame in place ... but a second jack worked fine.
8. Take each guide pin out in turn and replace each with a new stretch bolt. I tightened to 70 NM at this stage until the torque wrench clicked..
9. Reconnected the drop links and tightened the four steering rack bolts that were loosened earlier.
10. Back on four wheels and stretched each of the four console bolts a further 90 degrees.
11. Job done ... and they look centred and vertical, always a good place to start!!
View attachment 64195
Looking good and ready to roll!!
Steering alignment to check when I take it for a test drive and then make sure all the bolts have remained tight.
View attachment 64196
Next job is to replace the rear coolant pipe, thermostat and housing, only just ordered the parts and will tackle it when they arrive.
Thanks for reading and hopefully it may inspire someone to do this simple and satisfying job. Regards from Tom
Do you have a link to the ebay ad for the guide pins please
Much obliged!Hi simufly, I got mine from here but there are others available:
Subframe Alignment Locating Pin Bergen 4pc VAG Set Suitable for VW AUDI 6189 for sale online | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Subframe Alignment Locating Pin Bergen 4pc VAG Set Suitable for VW AUDI 6189 at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products!www.ebay.co.uk
All the best ... Tom
Yes agree, and I took the 10pin connector and 20cm of cable with the stalk when working at the Sharan. But as mentioned on this forum, connectors from inside front doors seem to be identical too.It’s a simple loom to make up as long as you have the connector that fits into the stalk
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Much obliged!
Simon
Today I..........filled up Momentum 99. I know it’s a rubbish thing to report however what was notable was that I paid 106.9p per litre which was 21p less per litre than the previous fill. ?
Driving home however (2.9 miles) of which 0.7 miles up hill and 1.1m level and 1.1m downhill and finally reverse up a long drive up hill. The car achieved 69mpg with potential range of 640 miles.
Whilst the journey is not representative of what I’d get on a tank more like 450-550 miles, it’s good to know it’s possible to get high mpg figures. Sooo looking forward to a road trip to an A2 meet.
View attachment 64347