Washed Keyfob :-(

Intercept

Intercept

A2OC Donor
Sob...

My wife has just reported that she has found the missing A2 key... in the washing machine :( Unfortunately it has been through a wash cycle. My advice was to remove the battery and leave it in a warm dry place to properly dry out. Is there anything else that could be done to improve its chance of recovery? What is the probability of it ever working again once given a fresh battery?

Thanks

John
 
You could place the key-fob in a sealed plastic bag with rice or silica gel packet, to absorb the moisture. Usually it works quite well....
 
Bizarre as it may seem, you should be fine, as long as it dries out thoroughly.

Taking the battery out is a good suggestion, as is the rice or silica gel option. However, a good shake and a shelf in an airing cupboard is also good.

If you have the inclination, you could always separate things and remove the circuit board when you get in - not a too tricky task on the original style A2 key.

If push comes to shove, you can always have another key programmed - the blade and immobiliser chip will work after any amount of immersion in water.

Cheers,

Michael
 
Had the same problem. Tried all the techniques suggested. Non worked. Hey ho off to Audi we go. HOW MUCH? I will put up with only one remote key!
 
simufly said:
Had the same problem. Tried all the techniques suggested. Non worked. Hey ho off to Audi we go. HOW MUCH? I will put up with only one remote key!
Click to expand...

Why not just get another one off Ebay or any other good auction site? Several members here can code it in for you, me included and as long as you've kept the old blade and immo chip, it's a pretty straight forward job.

Cheers,

Michael
 
HI,

The blade and chip are in one half of the key and the remote operation buttons in the other half, so just swap the top half from your old key to the replacement key and you will be able to start the car and drive it as it is until someone on here kindly offers to pair the remote fob to your car.

In fact, your existing key should still be able to be used to start and drive the car (the water will not have affected the key half of the key), but the remote operation may have been affected by the washing machine cycle.

Steve B
 
Last edited:
Thanks Everyone, wife just returned with A2 from a few days away, so I extracted the fob components from its bag of rice, reassembled it and fitted a new battery. No joy... But then I resync'ed it using the info on A2oc and now it works :) One very relieved wife. And I'm rather pleased too :-D

Cheers

John
 
  • Like
Reactions: chb
Intercept said:
Thanks Everyone, wife just returned with A2 from a few days away, so I extracted the fob components from its bag of rice, reassembled it and fitted a new battery. No joy... But then I resync'ed it using the info on A2oc and now it works :) One very relieved wife. And I'm rather pleased too :-D

Cheers

John
Click to expand...

Told you! Happy days. Now to get a key hook, so that you never leave keys in your trousers again!!

Cheers,

Michael
 
Intercept said:
I prefer something smoother and less rattley :p
Click to expand...

Are you really insulting our great little Audi A2 tdi!!! (Only kidding)

And that rattley noise becomes much less of a problem on the inside and it is actually quite an addictive "engineered" tyoe of sound, but obviously not to everyone's taste!!

Steve B
 
Intercept said:
I prefer something smoother and less rattley :p
Click to expand...

Good job you don't have the A2 FSi - sounds like there's a bag of nails been dumped in the engine from cold. There really is nothing wrong with the TDi though - pretty smooth for a 3-pot and it doesn't rattle, it throbs!! Oooh-err!!

Cheers,


Michael
 
Skipton01 said:
There really is nothing wrong with the TDi though - pretty smooth for a 3-pot and it doesn't rattle, it throbs!! Oooh-err!!

Cheers,
Michael
Click to expand...

Indeed, it is quite a rhythmic sound and unlike petrol A2s, you can definitely tell that the engine hasn't stalled when you stop.

The petrol engines can sometimes be rattley as you say, but a well maintained petrol engine without tappet noise, is a quiet as a mouse, especially inside the car.

Steve B
 
I love the 3 pot tdi sound - the engine is great, especially after the torque boost from Stealth. It's just all the construction rattles I can't find the source of that annoy me, primarily the resonance at 1800-2000 somewhere to the right of the driver's footwell. All trim is properly attached, as is the wheel arch liner, undertray and everything else I can find :-/ I was certain I'd found it a few months back when I noticed that one of the fuel/brake lines across the bulkhead had escaped its clip, but no, once secured the rattle was still there :-S
 
Intercept said:
I love the 3 pot tdi sound - the engine is great, especially after the torque boost from Stealth. It's just all the construction rattles I can't find the source of that annoy me, primarily the resonance at 1800-2000 somewhere to the right of the driver's footwell. All trim is properly attached, as is the wheel arch liner, undertray and everything else I can find :-/ I was certain I'd found it a few months back when I noticed that one of the fuel/brake lines across the bulkhead had escaped its clip, but no, once secured the rattle was still there :-S
Click to expand...

Have you checked the alternator pulley for wear and free play, there have been some recent discussions on this very issue.

Steve B
 
If it is not an engine rattle and only happens on bumpy roads that have you checked the following, in that order of likely cause

Drop links From the strut to the Anti roll bar
Anti roll bar bush (possibly moved or badly worn)
Rattle from the corner of the bonnet (you can check by gently thumping the rear corner of the bonnet by the windscreen)
Worn strut top mount
Broken road spring.

Steve B
 
I'll also add the brake fluid reservoir mount to this list - it wasn't quite bolted on correctly when I had a change of front shockers and so intermittently caused a buzz vibration which drove me potty.

Build quality of these cars was impeccable from the factory, it's just the re-building by mechanics of varying levels of (in)competence that's the issue.

Cheers,

Michael
 
Birchall said:
If it is not an engine rattle and only happens on bumpy roads that have you checked the following, in that order of likely cause

1 Drop links From the strut to the Anti roll bar
2 Anti roll bar bush (possibly moved or badly worn)
3 Rattle from the corner of the bonnet (you can check by gently thumping the rear corner of the bonnet by the windscreen)
4 Worn strut top mount
5 Broken road spring.

Steve B
Click to expand...

Thanks Steve

The resonance is not related to the smoothness of the road. It occurs at the given RPM range, only whilst the car is moving. It stops if I dip the clutch whilst maintaining the same RPM. I have never been able to trigger it whilst the car is parked.

From your list, I can eliminate 3, 4 & 5. I have driven the car without the bonnet and the resonance still happens. The strut top mounts were replaced with the shocks a while back and this made no difference to the resonance. The springs are stock and intact. The ARB bushes are squeaky and will get attention soon, but that is an entirely different source of A2 annoyance ;-)

The alternator pulley was replaced about 2 years ago as its mech had seized, so I'm not suspecting that.

The brake fluid reservoir mount is a good call - I'll have a look at that.

Thanks

John
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top