ok in the end I've just used a bit of kitchen towel and some metal cleaner for the stubborn bits on the outer casing along with the inside of the manifold itself (where the actual air goes through as there was a lot of stubborn oil marks in there).
I did find some oil in there and it was in amongst the cogs which I cleaned up with a dry kitchen roll and finished off with silicon lubricant once all was back in place.
i am finding though at the extreme closed off position even when clean it is sticking closed at times - is this normal? if not it might explain the issue and I'm not sure if I'm able to fix it.
On the electronics side there wasn't a massive amount of oil either but what there was I cleaned up with combo of kitchen roll and cotton buds dipped in acetone then dried off.
Will reinstall over the weekend and find out what happens - at least if it doesn't work I know how to put the new one in
when you had it apart , you say the flap was sticking , firstly were there any burs on the brass flap or any sideways movement as posibly sticking on the sides of the alloy casing , after i modified my amf one and had it welded up i noticed my flap would stick slightly at fully closed position , on inspection i found a tiny bur on the outer edge prob from me porting out the insides i must of knocked against it and being brass its very soft , i used some wet and dry and curved the whole flaps edges very slightly and it cured my issue .. may be of some help to you
Spring return does seem strong it just sticks if you put it to the extreme closed position and it will stay there until you start to move it back- it then springs back quickly. I followed the excellent guide and took the top off the main gear and cleaned off the oil I could see.
Will take a look at the inside again as I suspect it could be hard to get at crud (oil).
I'm tempted to use a fairly strong solution of degreaser but any gotchas on that - could I cause indirect issues?
Right so after EML light came back on, removed and and dirt build up from egr was removed and replaced it then came back on again so whilst for sure it is smoother I'm guessing there is something else up with it.
Before I replace with a new manifold any further ideas?
I've spotted this one of eBay is not OEM but it's quite a bit cheaper!
As a final update I picked up a VDO replacement for £190 from ebay. Fitted just there in 10 minutes and the difference is pretty stark if I'm honest.
I thought the clean up of the old one had smoothed things out but this is a whole new ball park. Smooth start and very smooth shut off so whilst this was the expensive option compared the attempted clean up I'm guessing the clean up isn't always successful so a replacement is the last resort...
So the ASV smooths the start not just shut off ? Always wondered as my starts used to be smoother, shut downs intermmitent as has was the EML light.
Thanks for that. Does anyone know if there is an easy way to extend the distance between EGR and ASV by an inch or two ? I need more clearance for the Bosch tandem pump.
Following up I re adjusted the rubber hose at the join to the metal pipe running to the intercooler. Didn't make an immediate impact until I cleared the codes off.
Despite weeks of snow, rain and very cold temperatures... including around 400 miles it hasn't come back on.
I know updating this may have tempted fate but given the length of time, extreme conditions and distances I'm hoping its now fixed. I can only assume that the hose wasn't properly aligned onto the metal pipe causing air and indeed water ingress.
The fault came back 2 weeks ago (shortly after I fixed my starting issue if you saw the thread). Last night I had time to strip the V157 again. There was only a little oil in it this time, only really enough to wet the outside of the motor and coat the inside of the casting in a few places and I wiped out what I could.
I suspect that the first time, the cleaning of the motor brushes and commutator didn't work very well because I used meths instead of a proper oil solvent like paraffin.
This time I swilled the motor out in paraffin instead, dunking it up and down a few hundred times and letting it fill and empty in a jar full. I turned the motor a good deal whilst immersed. The paraffin quickly went black, so I think the cleaning has been much more effective.
After re-assembling and clearing the fault code, all is well again. Hopefully this time it will last more than 16 months before needing to be done again.
After 4 error free months and all fingers pointing at a dodgy ecu the eml came on again this morning. I'm now utterly convinced is related to water as I had the bonnet off during a torrent last night. In addition I think my months of issues could have been water escaping from a disconnected ns washer nozzle dowsing the motor. This was what I was fixing last night! Id never noticed it in the whole time ive owned the car and i just thought a2 washers were rubbish... they aren't!
So question is should the motors be sensitive to water or could it be something like an exposed wire or slight leak sucking in water ?
I've cleared for now and hopefully water should now no longer get anywhere near...
So after convincing myself that I could have been unlucky and received a new faulty VDO intake flap motor (installed since Oct 2017) I contacted the supplier and they were happy to change over given I explained everything else that had been tried.
I replaced on Saturday....I plugged my ipod classic into the car just now with the car sitting with the ignition on - then I decided to start the car as the ipod wasn't getting enough juice and hey presto the EML light came back on with the SAME error. P3103 -35 -10 Intermittent 19559 Intake Flap motor faulty (as from vcds lite).
Its BRAND NEW and is NOT faulty...ECU has been replaced also and EGR is out of the equation as its been mapped out (or could it still be affecting things?)
Is there a fuse anywhere that controls the flap motor - I cant see anything under the dash?
Could it be hoses? Timmus checked the wiring to the flap and its good.