Aero parts; definitive list
- Thread starter Adrian888
- Start date
fbi
Member
RightI know it is that is why I said 'had' as in past tense.....
didn't notice the subtlety !
BTW, I suppose you know what LOTUS stands for : Lots Of Troubles Usually Serious
phil pk
Member
Just spotted this thread. Think i will order the wheelarch spoilers, as that looks like a simple task.
I do agree that everyone should have mudflaps as a safety precaution for other drivers. At first I did not have them, but got fed up of how dirty the car was getting, so 2 wks later, they were fitted, with a big reduction on dirty sides!
I do agree that everyone should have mudflaps as a safety precaution for other drivers. At first I did not have them, but got fed up of how dirty the car was getting, so 2 wks later, they were fitted, with a big reduction on dirty sides!
having now fitted the undertray and wheel arch 'spoilers' took the car on a 40 mile m/way run last night. Can tell the car is not having to work just quite as hard. Hope to have a go at fitting the under car spoiler later today..... weather permitting..... One disadvantge of the front winglets is i cannot get on forward my wheel ramps anymore.....
Cheers and thanks for the info on a2sum's album, I'll try to view them. Though the more photos the merrier
Photos as requested! Hope they are self explanatory. For those still to undertake fitting the parts i recommend the following:View attachment 4358 View attachment 4359 View attachment 4360
View attachment 4361 View attachment 4362 View attachment 4363
Get the car as high as possible on axle stands working on hard level ground (If working on tarmac put boards under the stands or better still find somewhere else). Don't forget to chock the rear wheels, handbrake on, in a low gear. You need to remove the front wheels anyway to fit the wheeel arch spoilers and leaving the wheels off until you have fitted all the other parts allows more room and lets more light under the car. The under tray is a doddle, just removing the 6 'nuts' (i think either 8 or 10mm) offer up the new tray and rescrew the nuts, they almost tighten up by hand. Front spoliers are also easy and use existing fittings for the undertray and wheel arch liners. The under spoiler is a bit trickier. Offer up the spoiler and mark where the screw holes are. Use a good quality steel punch mark each location which needs drilling with a good clout from a hammer onto the punch, if you can get someone to hold the punch for you your fingers will not be injured if you miss..... using a 4mm high speed steel (very important otherwise you will get absolutely nowhere) drill bit drill the holes. It might help to put some masking tape on first (as when drilling into ceramic wall tiles) to stop the drill from drifting. You do not need them to be exactly at right angles as the new screws are self tappers and under the car who will notice if they are a bit askew? Before offering up the spoiler run the screws into each of the holes to remove swarf and ensure they screw in easily. Fit spoiler, job done! Please work safely at all times and if not sure then don't tackle it. I have seen the results of a car falling on someone underneath it..... The whole job should take no more than an hour working steadily and with a cup of tea to keep you lubricated.
If anyone thinks I have missed anything please feel free to add comments. These are purely my recommendations and cannot take any liability for any c*ck ups!
View attachment 4361 View attachment 4362 View attachment 4363
Get the car as high as possible on axle stands working on hard level ground (If working on tarmac put boards under the stands or better still find somewhere else). Don't forget to chock the rear wheels, handbrake on, in a low gear. You need to remove the front wheels anyway to fit the wheeel arch spoilers and leaving the wheels off until you have fitted all the other parts allows more room and lets more light under the car. The under tray is a doddle, just removing the 6 'nuts' (i think either 8 or 10mm) offer up the new tray and rescrew the nuts, they almost tighten up by hand. Front spoliers are also easy and use existing fittings for the undertray and wheel arch liners. The under spoiler is a bit trickier. Offer up the spoiler and mark where the screw holes are. Use a good quality steel punch mark each location which needs drilling with a good clout from a hammer onto the punch, if you can get someone to hold the punch for you your fingers will not be injured if you miss.....
using a 4mm high speed steel (very important otherwise you will get absolutely nowhere) drill bit drill the holes. It might help to put some masking tape on first (as when drilling into ceramic wall tiles) to stop the drill from drifting. You do not need them to be exactly at right angles as the new screws are self tappers and under the car who will notice if they are a bit askew? Before offering up the spoiler run the screws into each of the holes to remove swarf and ensure they screw in easily. Fit spoiler, job done! Please work safely at all times and if not sure then don't tackle it. I have seen the results of a car falling on someone underneath it..... The whole job should take no more than an hour working steadily and with a cup of tea to keep you lubricated.If anyone thinks I have missed anything please feel free to add comments. These are purely my recommendations and cannot take any liability for any c*ck ups!
To clarify you do NOT need an angled drill! Simply drill at an angle, it doesn't make any difference if the screw is 'square' into the spoiler or not, read my post above again! I ams ure Audi have tested the benefits of the spoliers in appropriate conditions (wind tunnel) to ensure they work as intended!
Having an engineering background that's something I could never do. It may survive on a plastic spoiler but the principal is horrendous. Without full face contact, the fastener is likely to come loose, overtighten it and the head will be overstressed as it tries to 'square up' to the flat face and may crack off in time.
When I fitted mine I drilled the most difficult hole first, fitted the spoiler with one fastener then marked and drilled the remaining holes. I used a 90deg drill chuck adaptor
Cheers Spike
I don't disagree with you Spike and in an ideal world would preferred to do it as you did however I put it in context of what is actually been done here. It is not safety related and it is plastic which can easily get ripped off in deep snow or rough ground! I agree with your suggestion of drilling the centre hole first will make life a little easier. For those who have the apropriate drill then it is not a problem however the cost of buying a right angled chuck is probably more than the cost of the spoiler..... It still leaves two holes drilled square so 2 out of 3 fixings are properly seated. I would do the same again without hesitation.
the grim reeper
A2OC Donor
You could try using 2 bits of wood to drive on to before going on to the ramps this should give you a little bit of a lift
Phil
thanks Phil, I used to do that when garage space allowed such items (or junk as my g/f would have it....) to be stored. I have also seen somewhere (flea bay?) some steel ramp extensions to do same and probably safer in the long run. Was same problem with my 944, could never get that up the ramps in either direction!
