Just tried, I get 50 mm that is with verier on top of the O ring on both sides, can not remove O ring, sorry, hope this helps, AmiIf anyone has a duff pump, a strip down, and measure of the groove widths and ""cylinder" bores would give us the answers I think. These dimensions would enable an "O" ring supplier to recommend suitable items.
Would need a good quality vernier. I'd guess the expertise is present here ...
Mac.
Hello,
Does anybody have the o-ring dimensions please?
Evros
A scan might save a lot of time (trouble and money).Hi,
Thanks a lot. The o-ring supplier around here does not always carry a full stock, so I want to ask them first before taking it apart.
I cannot help you any further I am afraid. I am just trying to figure out where a sudden and momentary dip in power comes from around 2.7k RPM. There is a lot of judder as well on take of but the car needs a clutch anyway.
I'll post any improvements.
Evros
Hi,
Thanks a lot. The o-ring supplier around here does not always carry a full stock, so I want to ask them first before taking it apart.
I cannot help you any further I am afraid. I am just trying to figure out where a sudden and momentary dip in power comes from around 2.7k RPM. There is a lot of judder as well on take of but the car needs a clutch anyway.
I'll post any improvements.
Evros
7zap only currently lists the K version yet the J version can be found on eBay. I would think, like other part trailing letters, J is the earlier version, superseded by K, and not being aware of any change in spec to the BAD engine in production years I expect both to be compatible, the change probably coming about due to minor improvement(s) in design or change in supplier.For high pressure fuel pump I find two part numbers, numbers are the same, but letter at the end is ether K or J:
036127025K
036127025J
Maybe someone know what is the difference between them? Are they both compatible?
Some pictures for all you 1.6 FSI owners that have high pressure fuel pumps. Mine started to fail due to worn seals. Normally a very expensive fix but i managed to sort it for the cost of rubber o rings. I hope this helps people understand how to fix it their selves in the future and save hundreds!View attachment 63330View attachment 63331
The picture above shows the internals of my high pressure fuel pump. The next picture shows which o ring failed causing loss of power above 3k revvs.View attachment 63332
The next few pictures are screenshots that hopefully help people in the future.View attachment 63335View attachment 63334
I had this problem on one of my fsi's, it wasn't related to the fuel pump. in my case it was exactly as the warning code. When i checked the bolts holding the air intake manifold on, two of the bolts were very loose. after I sorted out the reason why this had happened and tightened the bolts that cleared the code, and the car ran much better.. It might be as simple as tightening the bolts if they weren't tightened sufficiently after a manifold change, could be dodgey gaskets or splits elsewhere in the air take system. Check the bolts are tight, allen key needed. Then start at the filter box on the front left and check the piping and connections to the top of the engine too to make sure nothing is loose / holed. There are a couple of more difficult to access parts at the rear of the engine to check also if non of that looks suspect. hope that helps.Hello, hav there any EML light and a fault code appeared with such a pump?
I have a reappearing "Air leak in the intake manifold" that comes back every 2-3 weeks and a garage suggested that it might
be a faulty High Pressure fuel pump since 2 smoke tests in 2 different garages did not show any traces of smoke appearing anywhere...
Thanks,
Andrei
ps i too had a smoke test done and it didn't show anything....I had this problem on one of my fsi's, it wasn't related to the fuel pump. in my case it was exactly as the warning code. When i checked the bolts holding the air intake manifold on, two of the bolts were very loose. after I sorted out the reason why this had happened and tightened the bolts that cleared the code, and the car ran much better.. It might be as simple as tightening the bolts if they weren't tightened sufficiently after a manifold change, could be dodgey gaskets or splits elsewhere in the air take system. Check the bolts are tight, allen key needed. Then start at the filter box on the front left and check the piping and connections to the top of the engine too to make sure nothing is loose / holed. There are a couple of more difficult to access parts at the rear of the engine to check also if non of that looks suspect. hope that helps.
I had this problem on one of my fsi's, it wasn't related to the fuel pump. in my case it was exactly as the warning code. When i checked the bolts holding the air intake manifold on, two of the bolts were very loose. after I sorted out the reason why this had happened and tightened the bolts that cleared the code, and the car ran much better.. It might be as simple as tightening the bolts if they weren't tightened sufficiently after a manifold change, could be dodgey gaskets or splits elsewhere in the air take system. Check the bolts are tight, allen key needed. Then start at the filter box on the front left and check the piping and connections to the top of the engine too to make sure nothing is loose / holed. There are a couple of more difficult to access parts at the rear of the engine to check also if non of that looks suspect. hope that helps.
Have you any pictures ?I'm not sure what they are called, but its a black corrugated plastic pipe and box that links across the back of the upper manifold, I also had a problem with a split pipe and dodgey connection there, it made a big difference when fixed to how smooth the engine ran.