Break, Bale or Bounce back?

If you are trying to use the hidden menu in the climate display...sorry bad news it does not exist on the A2. you need to have a VCDS scan done.
Regarding the OSS talk to @Kleynie he does refurbs on OSS. See this thread for more info.

 
Yes, talking to Adam thank you ?.

Shame about the hidden menu though: a friend had not long mailed me about that, guess he's wrong. I have now received my Gendan lead so I guess it's time to see if it'll work with the VCDS I have here or whether I'll need a new (working) version!
 
Did you manage to get the 4mm (+/- 1mm) first time?

No, I went round the houses a few of times but got it pretty much bob-on in the end. I see there's actually a +- tolerance of 1mm anyway which would seem massive when using the drill-bit method. I'd say I got within a tenth of that. As I'm not paying labour and I'm in a comfy workshop with stereo I don't mind taking my time: it's a hobby after all.

As with all these things, pragmatically that 1mm tolerance is probably perfectly usable though. It wasn't very long ago timing belt tension was fixed at fitting and then the belt simply took its chances over the next 60K miles. Would have probably started off way too tight and ended up way too slack.

Just as long as the tensioner can absorb the engine expansion in one direction and the settling of the belt teeth into the wheels / stretch the other, it'll be fine.
 
Great work. I want a lathe and a TIG machine too :).

:) Both useful in their own way. Both are the sort of things that don't get used for ages, but when you need them, you really need them! Both are good skills to have (although I am remarkably unskilled with both).

As it happens I sometimes use TIGs at work so have a couple of those. I'm in the process of restoring the next lathe (Colchester Chipmaster) and that'll replace my previously restored lathe, a 1955 5" Lorch: a very rare beast but a fraction of the capacity / ability of the Chipmaster.
 
Oh yes: just when I thought I was gaining on it, a new issue.

When I got the car it had about 1/4 tank of what must have been very old fuel. After the MOT I slipped across to my local Esso and brimmed it with their premium diesel, whatever that's called.

Went to shuffle the car around yesterday and despite the gauge flying correctly up to the full mark, I also got the low fuel warning bleep (klaxon) with matching yellow fuel logo.

Sigh. Another job ... although not sure where to start. I see elsewhere the sender was deemed a culprit but later on that thread the sender was swapped and the result was the same. The trail went cold at that point. Assuming no pearls of wisdom are forthcoming I'll just run it through a tank of fuel and see what happens upon refill. Shame it didn't happen when the alternator was sulking: I'd have had alternator, fuel, immobiliser and pre-heat lights all up.

Warning light bingo: just too fun ?
 
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True testament to a proper owner....well done.
Lots of time and effort spent, and well worth it too I would say....yet again well done!
 
True testament to a proper owner....well done.
Lots of time and effort spent, and well worth it too I would say....yet again well done!

Thank you: it's beginning to feel a bit of an uphill struggle TBH. In retrospect I rather wish I'd kept Lasi and gone for a better engine and a suspension rebuild. I certainly wish I had indeed done what all my instinct told me to do when I saw the car: turn around and come home with an empty trailer. If judging it on £££'s, there is absolutely no doubt the car should have been broken.

But I've been here time and again and you always get through this phase, one way or another. For all the above, it does look pretty well in the workshop. I'm trying very hard to come in under £1000 all in, all sorted despite the flow of brick-bats that have been thrown at the project.

If I can do that, I should have a nicely spec'ed car in a good strong colour in a good, bright usable condition. I'm trying not to think of the hours which have got completely out of control :rolleyes:. I'll regard it as a life lesson: if your gut says walk away, walk away. Just because you 'can' fix something doesn't mean you 'should' fix something. The saver here is that these cars are just so lovely to work on: money no object engineering. I love finding out how to diagnose and DIY my way through issues and there's no doubt there is a deep sense of satisfaction to rescue a car and turn it around.

Just to say, I'm listing all the costs to illustrate that if you're being 100% honest with yourself how even the most attractive looking proposition can quickly run away from you. No labour costs here either and it's perfectly realistic to say I've got 40-60 hours in this. TBF, if you used a specialist they would work a LOT faster, but then again they couldn't try a cheap fix either.

That's not to say another car won't have a variety of unexpected expenses either: almost all will have something. I will at least know this car pretty well going forward.

Anyway ... costs to date that I can remember:

Car £250
Wheels: £100
Fuel: £110
Valeting materials: £10
Rear springs: £33
Key cutting (no chips, manual locking only): £25
Rear bump stops (pair): £14
Various paints / abrasives from stock: £10.
MOT: £37
Air freshener: £3
Parts taken from Lasi (price reduction to dealer as result of): £100
Timing belt (bare), Dayco: £35
Oil Filter: £4
Oil let's say roughly £25.
Air filter: £10
Deproman wiper arm rebuild: £35
Deproman check-strap rebuild x1: £25
Deproman electronic services: £35
Postage with returns for above: £22
Old set eBay mudflaps: £5
Rear window repair: £0
Webasto exhaust repair: £0
Club regalia £28

(Less theoretical value of spare 15"'s (£75)

Running total at this point: £841

Still to go:

Wiper blade.
OSS repair (will abandon and disable if gets out of hand, which I really don't want to do: this will almost certainly result in selling the car). *Adam and Paul have kindly offered advice if / when needed: thanks chaps :) .*
Boot trim replacement. (in hand thanks to Clackers)
Centre dash vent replacement. Wanted
Right hand dash replacement. (Clackers?)
Climate control repair and gas (can re-gas here).
Immobilisor repair(?) and re-program. Need advice to re-start immobiliser and program two donor keys. Help wanted due to lock-down.
Source key internals. (Clackers?)

Fancy but not essential: luxuries if you like, and over and above my theoretical £1K.

Ideally some suspension refresh.
Ideally some wheel refurb (which I'll DIY).
Ideally bonnet repaint (which will be nearly free as I supply regular restoration re-paint projects to a local body-shop), plus tiny patch corrosion to top of RH rear door.

I'd like a set of 17"'s (Sport or RS Rep, probably the latter actually) to offset that dark blue, but these could stay with me for future A2's should this one go at some point.
A low grade DIS: fancy seeing instantaneous MPG.
Cruise (I retro-fitted this to my Passat which wasn't too bad at all).
Speaker upgrade for the Symphony
Bluetooth: I have an old Parrot (CK3000 possibly?) here that I'm hoping will talk to the Symphony.
Still pondering a full 3 / 10 / unlimited VCDS of some flavour as can't imagine I'll ever be without a VAG product. Message me if you're selling.
Quite fancy some factory roof bars.
 
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I think you will find all you need to know regarding keys in here...


Be aware the OSS is not light and cumbersome by size, really a two man job to remove. Will lockdown cause a problem with this?

Andy
 
I think you will find all you need to know regarding keys in here...


Be aware the OSS is not light and cumbersome by size, really a two man job to remove. Will lockdown cause a problem with this?

Andy

Thanks Andy, yes read through that thread a couple of times which is excellent to say the least. Sadly I'm further back than the starting point there, as have a disabled immobiliser and no original keys for the car.

As for the OSS, yes the same thought had occurred: getting the thing lifted out won't be an easy job. Will get it loose and see what to do from there.
 
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Well, how time flies: I've been tied up with a few family issues and a bit of gardening.

This was the black-sheep corner of the garden. I've been here nearly 1/4 century now and it's fair to say this area wasn't very good when I arrived and went downhill from there. Grass seed on order, otherwise: job done.

Feels like I've gained roughly about 1/2 an acre although reality is nearer 12ft by 10 but this means ...

P1020597sm.jpg
P1020603sm.jpg
P1020607sm.jpg


... a couple of weeks have flown by with little happening on the A2.

One thing I did manage to do though was to strip out enough interior to remove the broken OSS.

I got it loose a couple of evenings ago: was pretty sure something was about to go bang despite my softly softly approach. Looked up to see the rear glass flexing alarmingly despite my care. Even so, with a gradual firm pressure the various seals / sealants and general age-related tut let go and up it came.

Last night I propped all four corners up to stop the front bolt threads from catching on their holes and the rear corners from re-engaging on the sticky mastic. I fixed a couple of layers of dust-sheets over the rear of the car and was able to lift the roof up by standing in the car and shuffled it carefully backwards to its balance point.

With a careful tip-toe around the car I was able to hold onto the roof to stop it sliding off backwards and gently lifted it down.

Like most of these things, it wasn't nearly the drama I'd been warned of. I'd already removed the two moving glass panels (which are fantastically heavy for what they are), which gave much better access to lifting and must be a good 10-12 kilos between them.

Looking at the design, I really can't see much benefit in leaving them in at this stage: assuming you're lifting from around the middle they offer no extra strength to the assembly and add probably about a third of its weight. They would also stop you lifting it through the centre. On the other hand, if you've a couple of people to lift the roof, all of this becomes moot.

BTW, no-one available to help with a lift due to lock-down and I tend to try and do everything myself where I possibly can anyway.

P1020639sm.jpg
 
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In other news ... my unlimited VIN 'real' VCDS purchase arrived this morning. Hermes were up early as it shows as arriving at 6.07. As it had been raining very hard the box (left by front door contrary to safe-place instructions) it was in was turning to mush, but the contents were very well packed so well done to the eBay seller.

Not tried it yet as ECU is currently out of the car.

P1020642sm.jpg
 
Well, how time flies: I've been tied up with a few family issues and a bit of gardening.

Feels like I've gained roughly about 1/2 an acre although reality is nearer 12ft by 10 but this means ...

View attachment 63706View attachment 63707View attachment 63708

... a couple of weeks have flown by with little happening on the A2.

One thing I did manage to do though was to strip out enough interior to remove the broken OSS.

I got it loose a couple of evenings ago: was pretty sure something was about to go bang despite my very careful methods. Looked up to see the rear glass flexing alarmingly despite my care. Even so, with a gradual firm pressure the various seals / sealants and general age-related tut let go and up it came.

Last night I propped all for corners up to stop the front threads from catching on their holes and the rear corners from re-engaging on the sticky mastic. I fixed a couple of layers of dust-sheets over the rear of the car and was able to lift the roof up by standing in the car and shuffled it carefully backwards to its balance point.

With a careful tip-toe around the car I was able to hold onto the roof to stop it sliding off backwards and gently lifted it down.

Like most of these things, it wasn't nearly the drama I'd been warned of. I'd already removed the two moving glass panels (which are fantastically heavy for what they are), which gave much better access to lifting and must have removed a good 10-12 kilos between them.

Looking at the design, I really can't see much benefit in leaving them in at this stage: assuming you're lifting from around the middle they offer no extra strength to the assembly and add probably about a third of its weight. They would also stop you lifting it through the centre. On the other hand, if you've a couple of people to lift the roof, all of this becomes moot.

BTW, no-one available to help with a lift due to lock-down and I tend to try and do everything myself where I possibly can anyway.

View attachment 63709

I’ve always managed to remove the unit complete by myself without removing the glass but then I don’t have to worry about scratching the bodywork of the car.
 
Nice work on both horticultural and automotive fronts.

Where did you source the VCDS from out of interest?

Thank you :)

It was eBay in the end. £304 all in. Might have been able to get one for a bit less but Unlimiteds with box and paper in nice condition seem to average around this level. It gets to the point where you might be able to get one for £20-50 less but you might end up waiting for weeks or months. On other hand, others have gone through for a bit more.

I think the fact the latest version in Unlimited form is around £450+ new has helped prop up prices on the earlier ones.

Not tried it yet, but looks pretty authentic, the seller had excellent feedback and was helpful (and could spell / good grammer and didn't call me 'mate': all good signs) and I paid with Paypal. I think that's as much due diligence I can do realistically.
 
I’ve always managed to remove the unit complete by myself without removing the glass but then I don’t have to worry about scratching the bodywork of the car.

Certainly if you're not worried about the body everything becomes much easier!

Assuming I'm still flying solo when it goes back on (highly likely) I'll take some time to mask everything up with cardboard before attempting re-entry.
 
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Well, how time flies: I've been tied up with a few family issues and a bit of gardening.

Feels like I've gained roughly about 1/2 an acre although reality is nearer 12ft by 10 but this means ...

View attachment 63706View attachment 63707View attachment 63708

... a couple of weeks have flown by with little happening on the A2.

One thing I did manage to do though was to strip out enough interior to remove the broken OSS.

I got it loose a couple of evenings ago: was pretty sure something was about to go bang despite my very careful methods. Looked up to see the rear glass flexing alarmingly despite my care. Even so, with a gradual firm pressure the various seals / sealants and general age-related tut let go and up it came.

Last night I propped all for corners up to stop the front threads from catching on their holes and the rear corners from re-engaging on the sticky mastic. I fixed a couple of layers of dust-sheets over the rear of the car and was able to lift the roof up by standing in the car and shuffled it carefully backwards to its balance point.

With a careful tip-toe around the car I was able to hold onto the roof to stop it sliding off backwards and gently lifted it down.

Like most of these things, it wasn't nearly the drama I'd been warned of. I'd already removed the two moving glass panels (which are fantastically heavy for what they are), which gave much better access to lifting and must have removed a good 10-12 kilos between them.

Looking at the design, I really can't see much benefit in leaving them in at this stage: assuming you're lifting from around the middle they offer no extra strength to the assembly and add probably about a third of its weight. They would also stop you lifting it through the centre. On the other hand, if you've a couple of people to lift the roof, all of this becomes moot.

BTW, no-one available to help with a lift due to lock-down and I tend to try and do everything myself where I possibly can anyway.

View attachment 63709
Nice work. Not that I have BSS/OSS on any of my cars, (or just because of that reason), it would be interesting to see more pictures?
 
Thank you :)

It was eBay in the end. £304 all in. Might have been able to get one for a bit less but Unlimiteds with box and paper in nice condition seem to average around this level. It gets to the point where you might be able to get one for £20-50 less but you might end up waiting for weeks or months. On other hand, others have gone through for a bit more.

I think the fact the latest version in Unlimited form is around £450+ new has helped prop up prices on the earlier ones.

Not tried it yet, but looks pretty authentic, the seller had excellent feedback and was helpful (and could spell / good grammer and didn't call me 'mate': all good signs) and I paid with Paypal. I think that's as much due diligence I can do realistically.

That's authentic. Supplied by Marshall's Industrial, one of Ross-Tech's UK distributors, and looks in very good shape. Glad you got it for a fair price.
 
Latest update:

Car £250
Wheels: £100
Fuel: £110
Valeting materials: £10
Rear springs: £33
Key cutting (no chips, manual locking only): £25
Rear bump stops (pair): £14
Various paints / abrasives from stock: £10.
MOT: £37
Air freshener: £3
Parts taken from Lasi (price reduction to dealer as result of): £100
Timing belt (bare), Dayco: £35
Oil Filter: £4
Oil let's say roughly £25.
Air filter: £10
Deproman wiper arm rebuild: £35
Deproman check-strap rebuild x1: £25
Deproman electronic services: £35
Postage with returns for above: £22
Old set eBay mudflaps: £5
Rear window repair: £0
Webasto exhaust repair: £0
Club regalia £28
Wiper blade £12
GummiPfleger sealant restorer (1/3rd bottle) £3.50
Roof seals strip (1/3rd roll) £3.50
Used Parts (hatch trim, 2x remotes, right hand vent, wheel centre puller) £35

(Less theoretical value of spare 15"'s (£75)

Running total at this point: £895

Still to go:


Centre dash vent repair: anyone got a control lever or scruffy / donor vent (left / right / centre)?

Climate control repair and gas (can re-gas here).
Immobilisor repair(?) and re-program. Need advice to re-start immobiliser and program two donor keys. VCDS purchased.

Fancy but not essential: luxuries if you like, and over and above my theoretical £1K.

Ideally some suspension refresh.
Ideally some wheel refurb (which I'll DIY).
Ideally bonnet repaint (which will be nearly free as I supply regular restoration re-paint projects to a local body-shop), plus tiny patch corrosion to top of RH rear door.

I'd like a set of 17"'s (Sport or RS Rep, probably the latter actually) to offset that dark blue, but these could stay with me for future A2's should this one go at some point.
A low grade DIS: fancy seeing instantaneous MPG. (Edit) Now on the way having found the thread on this.
Cruise (I retro-fitted this to my Passat which wasn't too bad at all).
Speaker upgrade for the Symphony
Bluetooth: I have an old Parrot (CK3000) here that I'm hoping will talk to the Symphony 1??
Quite fancy some factory roof bars.
 
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