Nice job and nice write up.
Very well done, looks like you've done a good job. And to answer your query, all the runners are steel, no matter what year, the only thing that changes are the rear 2 panels.Now just need to finish getting the interior back in.
Costs? Not much. Some grease which I had: just normal lithium multi-purpose. I can't see why you'd need anything special: it runs in a tight temperature range, at slow speeds with low contact patch loading.
1/3rd roll of RS sealing tape, so under £4.
Bit's of steel and welding: not going to count that. Coffee consumed during whole process probably cost more and even that's instant.
1/3rd bottle seal restorer: say £3.50.
I already had some Wurth Bond and Seal, but let's say 1/ 6th tube. £1.
I'd say under £10 all in? I can't think of anything else.
What I would say however is I was lucky that feet aside, nothing was actually broken. I didn't have to replace impossible to fabricate parts (e.g. all those little sliding feet: 3D print @depronman ?).
Also, it was a lot of heavy, tricky work. Doing this commercially, for someone else with some sort of warranty? No thanks, I'll leave it to the experts. The price @Kleynie charges is a stonking bargain and I'm sure can cover the full range of issues without batting an eyelid. I suspect I've been let off lightly with this one.
Would I recommend you give it a go? Realistically you'd have to be very keen, quite well equipped, happy to have car off the road for a bit, have a garage big enough for both roof (with room to work) and the car. Not to mention that whole 'have a go' engineering aptitude. If you have, then go for it.
Also, I'm not sure all the trucks are steel: if others are plastic or aluminum my repair method becomes moot.
So ... if I was to buy another car with a broken roof, yes, I'd do it again. Does it put me off having a car with OSS? Yes, it does really: if nothing else it's massively heavy for what you gain. I think they should have done a fixed pan roof with a retracting blind. Far lighter, stiffens the car, no reliability issues. On the other hand, I might well come to love it if / when the car gets some actual use.
Anyway, once the rest of the interior is in I'll move on to whatever's next. Literally can't remember what that is!
Very well done, looks like you've done a good job. And to answer your query, all the runners are steel, no matter what year, the only thing that changes are the rear 2 panels.
I advise everyone that has a roof off of me to open at least once a week, and to service every 6 months, so I would do that too if I were you just to keep it moving. Now you know what you're doing as well, when servicing, have both moving panels out and re align them, as they do move fractionally over time. This is what I do when I service anyone's roof, have the panels out, apply CV joint long life grease, and re align and re assemble.
Again, good job.
Well I must say I've really enjoyed reading all that - I would have been bricking myself taking on this job, you seemed to approach it with very much a "whatever happens, I'll get it sorted" attitude, which I like. I also like your writing style and the pictures (just enough, showing the major stages / points of focus).
Big thumbs up from me.
Very impressive, well done. I would love to have a go at doing mine but sadly I can’t weld and also have no cover. Having said that, I could put a marquee up in the front front garden, so if you fancy popping over with your welding kit and showing me how to do it, I’ll provide endless cups of coffee!
I take my hat off to you credit we’re credit is due...aircraft airframe and toolmaking engineering was my life ..before retirement (still is as hobby ) your a talented lad having had 911s for 40 odd years I know how the early ones can rust ..your a dying trade fewer people around to do this sort of work really nice to see ..is it an old Carolina jig ..I see you’ve made up fixture that locates bulkhead to tunnel ..at least if you stick with that marque you can make up all the jigs needed and by now ..you will know them inside out ..?I am sorry, I meant to reply to this at the time! Thank you very much. It's a bit tricky knowing where to pitch these things. You don't want to bang on and on about every detail, but do want to give a good sense of the journey and what's been done. Hopefully there might be something of interest in there. Frankly also, it's brilliant getting the feedback: it really helps push a project along.
As for the can-do: my day job helps keep things in perspective. Be assured, I certainly used to be a bag of bits when I started many years ago. I had my first car project when I was 16 (Austin A35) and was very pleased with myself when I blobbed some filler over a dent and (sort of) painted it. I've done cars ever since either as a hobby or a job. The big 911 bodyshell projects can go on for half a year (800 invoiced hours is upper end, that's just my bit, the metal). After a few of those you do get to the point of knowing however bad things are (and they do get very, very bad) you will come thorough it and deliver the right product in the end. What I do is nothing compared to many: we all fight in our own way I guess. Trick is to enjoy it where you can and get the lesson out of it regardless.
The day job This is a '73 911 E in for full resto a couple of years ago: I'd say in the upper end of the range I things I do but not the worst either.
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I take my hat off to you credit we’re credit is due...aircraft airframe and toolmaking engineering was my life ..before retirement (still is as hobby ) your a talented lad having had 911s for 40 odd years I know how the early ones can rust ..your a dying trade fewer people around to do this sort of work really nice to see ..is it an old Carolina jig ..I see you’ve made up fixture that locates bulkhead to tunnel ..at least if you stick with that marque you can make up all the jigs needed and by now ..you will know them inside out ..?
Thanks Barry, very decent of you. I’ve opened it up today and from what I can see it actually runs reasonably freely. The main fault appears to be the motor and worm drive. I might have a go at putting a shaped metal fitting in to see if the drive cables can be pulled together better and help the motor to engage.I think the pragmatic repair for yours (assuming the drive can be used and your trucks are O.K.) would be the Audi repair plates. With the moving panels out, as Keynie says, you can do a lot of service work, free everything off and re-grease. Then the repair plates can go in and the system re-timed.
In your situation I wouldn't recommend removing the roof: you need loads of undercover space and it takes ages. I certainly wouldn't do anyone else's as not sufficiently confident.
I wouldn't mind having a bash at the repair plate method though if you came over, but that obviously depends on the whole Covid thing. Putting that aside, I'd then say come over and you could do as much as possible with me pointing the way. My home workshop's got everything we'd need in terms of tools etc. All you'd need is the plates, but we'd need to be sure your roof-drive will go again.
Thanks Barry, very decent of you. I’ve opened it up today and from what I can see it actually runs reasonably freely. The main fault appears to be the motor and worm drive. I might have a go at putting a shaped metal fitting in to see if the drive cables can be pulled together better and help the motor to engage.
I’ll attach a photo, was this roughly what you had to do?