codes 17961, 01435, 01314 Audi A2 1.4 petrol (2003 mod)

[CHeZ]

Hi all,

I'm new to this forum, so I'm sorry in advance if this is posted under the wrong thread of the forum.

So to start off, my girlfriend got herself a used Audi A2 late last year, and several problems have occured since...
First problem was "insufficient flow" (cant recall code) error code that came up on the EGR valve, where the garage she used said the problem was the EGR valve itself. So they started off replacing that. After replacement of the EGR valve, the CEL light was still on. I called a friend of mine in the VW Club, who has a VAG COM (from ross-tech) and VCDS software loaded on his laptop and agreed to help out with the diagnistics.
After the scan the code "insufficient flow" on EGR valve came up again, so we thought the problem originated somewhere else and the sensor on EGR valve was just the first to trigger a respons to the problem. So I (DIY) removed the throttlebody and adapter between throttlebody and itake manifold to find a big layer of gunk (aprox. 3 mm buildup) from the secondary side of the butterfly valve and down (towards inlet valves).
So I then proceeded to give it all a good clean, and remount all, and readapt (recalibrate the TPS within throttlebody) and run a new diagnostic.
This time all was fine and I drove home.

I feel its also necessary to add:

- coilpacks have been replaced, 2 times since it was brand new
- oilfilter and oil just done (and bolt with washer to the oilpan is new)
- airfilter is brand new
- spark plugs brand new
- MAP sensor recently replaced (VW Magnet Marelli)
- EGR valve brand new

All above things are OEM. (no china or poor quality aftermarket part)

So then... To the recent problem...
After about a week of painless driving with no CEL light popping up in the dashboard display, the car decides to shudder a bit on revs (usually around 1800-2200 revolutions) and all warning lights in the cars dashboard display light up constantly followed by 3 loud annoying beeps...
So i called my friend again in the VW Club, and ran a new diagnostic. this time the list was a bit bigger.

Here is the full scan report:




Monday,22,June,2015,19:48:08:55062
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator
VCDS Version: 14.10.2.0 (x64)
Data version: 20150311
www.Ross-Tech.com


VIN: WAUZZZ8Z33N006707 License Plate:
Mileage: 174820km-108628mi Repair Order:



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Chassis Type: 8Z (8Z - Audi A2 (2000 > 2005))
Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 16 17 18 37 45 46 56 57 75 76 77

VIN: WAUZZZ8Z33N006707 Mileage: 174820km-108628miles
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: 036-906-034-APE.lbl
Part No: 036 906 034 CA
Component: MARELLI 4MV 4637
Coding: 00051
Shop #: WSC 02138
VCID: 53A56689A1225EB983D-4B32
WAUZZZ8Z33N006707 AUZ7Z0B2128050

1 Fault Found:
17961 - Barometric / Manifold Pressure Signals
P1553 - 35-10 - Implausible Correlation - Intermittent
Readiness: 1010 0001

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 8Z0-907-379-MK60.lbl
Part No: 8Z0 907 379 C
Component: ESP FRONT MK60 0101
Coding: 0019463
Shop #: WSC 02154 785 00200
VCID: 489F41E53864ED61E6F-5140

2 Faults Found:
01435 - Brake Pressure Sensor 1 (G201)
008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
01314 - Engine Control Module
013 - Check DTC Memory

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: None
Part No: 8Z0 820 043 D
Component: A2-KLIMAVOLLAUTOMAT 0512
VCID: 377D3219159A92999F5-257A

6 Faults Found:
01272 - Positioning Motor for Central Flap (V70)
41-10 - Blocked or No Voltage - Intermittent
01271 - Positioning Motor for Temperature Flap (V68)
41-10 - Blocked or No Voltage - Intermittent
00727 - Potentiometer in Positioning Motor for Defrost Flap (G135)
30-10 - Open or Short to Plus - Intermittent
00601 - Potentiometer On Positioning Motor for Central Flap (G112)
30-10 - Open or Short to Plus - Intermittent
00600 - Potentiometer On Positioning Motor for Temperature Flap (G92)
30-10 - Open or Short to Plus - Intermittent
00818 - Sensor for Evaporator Outlet Temperature (G263)
30-00 - Open or Short to Plus

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags Labels: 8Z0-959-655.lbl
Part No: 8Z0 959 655 E
Component: Airbag Front+Seite 5005
Coding: 00102
Shop #: WSC 02152
VCID: 4E9377FD8A003351AC3-5140

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments Labels: 8Z0-920-xxx-17.lbl
Part No: 8Z0 920 901
Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRS. VDO D02
Coding: 04142
Shop #: WSC 00006
VCID: 77FDF219551A52995F5-5122
WAUZZZ8Z33N006707 AUZ7Z0B2128050

1 Fault Found:
01304 - Radio
49-00 - No Communications

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 46: Central Conv. Labels: None
Part No: 8Z0 959 433 S
Component: Komfortgerát T04 0615
Coding: 02048
Shop #: WSC 02138
VCID: 56A39F9DB2D04B91643-4B00

Subsystem 1 - Part No: 8Z1959801A
Component: Tõrsteuer.FS BRM 0003

Subsystem 2 - Part No: 8Z1959802A
Component: Tõrsteuer.BF BRM 0003

1 Fault Found:
01561 - Rear left door
61-00 - Won't De-Safe

End-------------------------(Elapsed Time: 04:12)--------------------------



I have tried to check for leaks in vacuum, bad gasgets, anything not boltet down, any loose pipes/wires/connector, and nothing sticks out.....
all faults under "Address 08: Auto HVAC" i assume are there because there simply isnt a A/C unit on the car. Also "Address 17: Instruments" is simply because the original radio unit has been relaced with an aftermarked one.
My main concern is with the faults under "Address 01: Engine" and "Address 03: ABS Brakes"
Am i correct in assuming this?

I also translated the "readiness code":

1010 0001:

- Exhaust Gas Recirculation: Failed
- Oxygen Senson Heating: Passed
- Oxygen Senson(s): Failed
- Air Conditioning: Passed
- Secondary Air Injection: Passed
- Evaporative Emissions: Passed
- Catalyst Heating: Passed
- Catalytic Converter(s): Failed


I am used to work on cars just not newer (or German) have done alot to japanese cars, so I'm new to this scene, any and all help is MUCH appreciated!

I know how anything as far as symptoms and error logging helps you out there to pin down anything obvious, out of the ordinary, so I will post symptoms that i know of.

- Car dips from 1000 to 5-600 rpm once or twice when engine is hot (optimal 90C +/-) and I start it up, before it find Idle (700 rpm +/-)
- Car only has the CEL light on when I start the car after taking out the keys from ignition and put them back in and turning it over (stoping and starting again basiclly)
- Car ONLY lights up all warning lights in dashboard display and beeps 3 times after engine is warm, never cold.
- Lately the Car tends to start with no CEL light i dashboard, but all lights come on like always after it gets warm
- When standing still, and holding my foot steady at aprox. 2000rpm the engine slowly decreases to aprox. 1000rpm, sometimes dying, and i havnt moved my foot AT ALL
- Rarly the car dies in motion, not stalling, but shuts off, dies.. and works normally again but starting it again

any help at all is MUCH appreciated!
cant afford to trubleshoot the problem by eliminating hardware, as the car just isnt worth it....

hoping ive created a detailed enough descrition af things for some of you to see a obvious solution to my problem, and if any pics or more info is needed ill gladly give it asap

 

[bretti_kivi]

Camshaft sensor. If it's dying it may deliver implausible values and won't drop an error,

Three beeps comes with a sign at startup. Which one?

- Bret

 

[Dave M]

With that many "warning lights" or fault codes i,d turn all the power off in the command module, crawl through into the LM and await instructions for a re-entry strategy. All indications are that you have an oxygen tank burst !.

 

[Jeffers66]

With that many "warning lights" i,d turn all the power off in the command module, crawl through into the LM and await instructions for a re-entry strategy. All indications are that you have an oxygen tank burst !.

Hi Dave,
Not being an expert in this field whatsoever, you're last quote sounds like it wouldn't be a miss from a Star Trek episode lol!!

 

[CHeZ]

Thank you both for quick replies.

Bret, wouldnt the problem be consistent regardless of the engine being warm or cold if it is the cam sensor? All warning lights come on followed by 3 beeps, only when engine is warm. If I start the engine when cold (in the morning or wait a couple of hours) only the CEL light is on and sometimes not even that light is on. Problem is after a couple of minutes (when engine is warm, or warmer). But I am desperate so ill look into that

I will also look into burst oxygen tank

I will get back to you when I have looked into these things

- Chris

 

[Dave M]

I don,t in any way wish to be derogatory in relation to "chez,s" misfortune but it sounds like every conceivable fault code that could show up has done - a bit like " Apollo 13" Jeff

 

[bretti_kivi]

hi,

no, the cam sensor would not change whether cold or warm.

Are you still on the original battery? Tried disconnecting it for 30 minutes?

- Bret

 

[CHeZ]

Hello again,

Yes, I do believe the original battery is still in the car and i have checked it (voltage when running and when its not running). Voltages came back ok (i'm actually an electrician ). But i have told her to get it replaced because cells are not supposed live that long without replacement do to wear (on a chemical level).

One of the VW Club guys told me that he had a track car rebuildt to put out aprox. 460bhp but only but out arond 260bhp (cant remember actual HP ) and they benched it again with a new battery and it put out calculated power.

Its definitely on "todo list". But that VW didnt give any error codes tho... just hoping my initial post flagged something obvious

- Chris

 

[bretti_kivi]

I'd do the battery first and then see what happens. All lighting up is really strange, I don't remember seeing it before except in conjunction with <11V. Try steering @ tickover, teh pump pulls quite a bit of power.

Also disconnect it for a few minutes and see what happens, that may help some electronic brains reset themselves.

Standard fault picture for a screwed cam sensor is revs dropping towards zero and engine restarting without warning and no fault given. Sensor is around €100, so it's a question if you want to invest that in the car.

- Bret

 

[CHeZ]

I'd do the battery first and then see what happens. All lighting up is really strange, I don't remember seeing it before except in conjunction with <11V. Try steering @ tickover, teh pump pulls quite a bit of power.

Also disconnect it for a few minutes and see what happens, that may help some electronic brains reset themselves.

Standard fault picture for a screwed cam sensor is revs dropping towards zero and engine restarting without warning and no fault given. Sensor is around €100, so it's a question if you want to invest that in the car.

- Bret

Sounds like a good idea, i'll check that as soon as possible and post results

We leave for USA on friday, so i'm not sure i'll get it done before that but i'll try

- Chris

 

[CHeZ]

hello all again,

i didnt get ahold of a new battery or cam sensor yet as i havent had the time to... (had to work late and drive one of my old cars to the chopper)
i did however today unplug battery for aprox. 30min and and plugged it up again. i also pulled out the can sensor (on top of head on driver side) and noticed a bit of alu shavings, kinda likle dust and cleaned it off and refitted it.

in addition to this I also popped the TB cover and checked if the cams where in alignment with each other (used the lines the garage that fitted the current timimg belt @ 100k KM made), and the all lined up

wont be able to do much more until i get home from the states unfortunatly, but will leave you with this:

https://youtu.be/dmTZ3cRVlz0

its a video i made earlier this evening with the actual car that is giving me headaches and nightmares....
i start it cold and rev it to aprox. 2000prm for some time just to illustrate that as long as the engine is cold it doesnt malfunction.
then back it up and take it for a little ride down the road and back.
then i repeate the process to illustrate to you guys what i'm experiencing.
then on final trip up and down the street, youll notice how irratic and jumpy the can get.
ONLY when warm or after a bit of heat has started to build, and what you dont see in the video is that sometimes it just dies in motion, like a constant drop from 2000rpm to dead in hartbeat.
also when the car has reached its warmest (watertemp 90C) if i kill the engine and turn over again it tends to drop from 800-600rpm once or twice rapidly.

anyone seen this before or have any idea what can cause this?

- Chris