Finding and preparing a new to me AMF

Little Dog

Little Dog

A2OC Donor
European-Union
I've put this in the technical section because once I find an AMF the thread will turn technical very quickly. Also the reasons for rejecting engines will be technical. Admin feel free to move the thread if I have missed the mark.
My owned from new AMF has fallen victim to the glow plug data base error and has had 5v glow plugs melt inside it, 11v should have been supplied and fitted. I have posted the damage to the engine here (page 4), https://www.a2oc.net/community/inde...mokey-on-cold-start-is-it-normal.45488/page-4 . There is a view that as the engine is in good order otherwise that I should run it. I have some sympathy with that view and can understand the logic. But knowing about the damage has made me haul back on maintenance. The Engineer in me drives me to reject the engine and I'm never going to be happy giving it full beams. I have shell bearings. seals. stretch bolts, gaskets waiting for an engine worthy of them. Also an A2 which is respectable.
I went to see an AMF today; I've just realised I'm on my PC and the picture I need is on my phone. Will post again shortly.
 
Been to see one today. 2004 Polo AMF engine with 71k miles. Feels like I can’t go wrong. However the deal with breakers is the engine as supplied goes into your car and if it doesn’t work you have a claim. That will not happen with any engine I buy so I have to be sure its right. 71k miles what can go wrong? Oooops:
6EDEA52A-6469-4B7F-A19C-1C602D4B6F74.jpeg


I can’t imagine how that was tensioned but it felt petrol tight not diesel tight. So it turned the engine over at the crank. One piston compression but soft. Second piston same compression but soft. Third, thats more like my broken three. Tried two more times, engine rejected.
 
philward said:
Been to see one today. 2004 Polo AMF engine with 71k miles. Feels like I can’t go wrong. However the deal with breakers is the engine as supplied goes into your car and if it doesn’t work you have a claim. That will not happen with any engine I buy so I have to be sure its right. 71k miles what can go wrong? Oooops:View attachment 104347

I can’t imagine how that was tensioned but it felt petrol tight not diesel tight. So it turned the engine over at the crank. One piston compression but soft. Second piston same compression but soft. Third, thats more like my broken three. Tried two more times, engine rejected.
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this is going to sound like a daft question and probably is - but if you're going to rebuild and refurb to the degree that is required from a Polo AMF to an A2 one in your current situation, isn't that the same degree of rebuild needed taking the core parts from a more recent 1.4tdi like a BNV or something similar maybe a few years younger and on much lower mileage, with all ancillaries (and sump?) taken off and swapped over / built up from there?
 
Robin_Cox said:
this is going to sound like a daft question and probably is - but if you're going to rebuild and refurb to the degree that is required from a Polo AMF to an A2 one in your current situation, isn't that the same degree of rebuild needed taking the core parts from a more recent 1.4tdi like a BNV or something similar maybe a few years younger and on much lower mileage, with all ancillaries (and sump?) taken off and swapped over / built up from there?
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I don’t know. I perhaps need to look at that option.
 
I have the offer of a known good AMF but it is in a car. It is 100 miles from home so I have to get it in one. The owner is enthusiastic to help but my concern is AC. I need to check again if the seller has confirmed AC or not but I need to know any way for my own car.
Is it possible to pull an engine out of the front of the car without vacuuming down the AC ?
 
Umm I say no, but no expert.
the compressor on the front has hard fittings attached and the pipe work moves from flexible to hard pipe randomly around the engine.
The pipes run across from the compressor to the right lower side into the condensor rad, then out backwards and up towards the header tank and through the bulkhead running above the shift tower.
So lifting it out would need to miss the elevated pipe top right and have a nought room to left the compressor hang down then front, it's tight down there with intercooler housing right close up.
 
Thanks @CrispyEdd this is exactly the problem I have, or problems. With my own car i can take my time and and detach and manoeuvre pipes. With the suppliers car though we, the supplier and myself, have to do, normal to me, three days work in one. The pressure to just break the AC circuit will be there. Can it be done, extract the engine without exhausting the AC.
Ill check again if the car has AC but it was otherwise well specified
 
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Looking at the above with intercooler out you get a nice window for the compressor connections but I think letting the compressor drop you will lift engine up and out okay, will be close bu the pipes are lower than the sump join so under the fattest middle part of engine.
 
CrispyEdd said:
Hopefully the gas has run out anyway?! There's a chance.
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Apparently not, the seller will have the gas extracted. I only have my own car to consider. It’s not to expensive to vac and charge but is it possible to avoid taking the front off the car?
 
CrispyEdd said:
Looking at the above with intercooler out you get a nice window for the compressor connections but I think letting the compressor drop you will lift engine up and out okay, will be close bu the pipes are lower than the sump join so under the fattest middle part of engine.
Click to expand...
No the only option I have miles from home is to drop the engine and pull out forwards. Then split from the box etc.
Suggestions and alternatives gratefully received.
 
Not quite sure I know what the problem is as I’m only scanning, but by far the easier was to remove the engine is to take the front part me off.
 
Anybody else having problems with 7Zap?

01EF4C36-4177-4B59-A569-29E820717D0B.jpeg


I’ve suddenly discovered I’m very dependant on it for part numbers. Are there any alternatives?
Thank you.
 
Here is a question for the diesel heads amongst us. When I get myself a new to me AMF I would like it to be as clean as the outgoing engine:

IMG_0779.jpeg


What is that makes my existing engine, with damaged, pistons, bores and combustion chambers, return such figures?

Injectors? Turbo? What do I need to transfer onto the new engine to maintain low emissions?

Thoughts please.
 
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