Finding and preparing a new to me AMF

Yeah tester has selected wrong age rating for the car.
Regarding smoke levels, a good blow out directly before the test can make whole world of difference however that test reading for me is perfectly acceptable and I would be more than happy with it if it was my car!

Interesting neither test is showing engine speed readings that's a bit naughty really
 
With no progress now for over 1 month even the tiniest amount is worth celebrating. Split edges repaired with PVA glue. large splits strengthened with garden frost guard sheet and PVA. Black finished restored with black shoe polish:

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That looks great Phil. Chapeau. I didn't think it would be possible to repair one of those covers. They always feel very insubtantial to me. Have you got any closer-up shots of the bits that you've repaired? Is the "frost guard sheet" you mention the lightweight white stuff that you drape over the top of plants?
 
I had three problems, four if I include it looked a bit tatty.

It had ripped. I opened the inner and outer skins either side of the rip and poked in garden plant frost protection sheet to bridge the rip. The white stuff that comes in a roll to protect plants in the garden overwinter, we have loads of it used at the moment. I then brushed in PVA, squeezed out and cleaned off the excess and clamped with special tools while the glue dried:

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Surface tears, glue down and hold with low tack masking tape while the glue sets:

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Inner and outer skins delaminating. Split deeper if necessary, brush in PVA, squeeze out and clean off excess glue, special tool to clamp while glue dries:

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General tattyness improved by applying black shoe polish,

The essential special tool, many required:

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Little Dog said:
I had three problems, four if I include it looked a bit tatty.

It had ripped. I opened the inner and outer skins either side of the rip and poked in garden plant frost protection sheet to bridge the rip. The white stuff that comes in a roll to protect plants in the garden overwinter, we have loads of it used at the moment. I then brushed in PVA, squeezed out and cleaned off the excess and clamped with special tools while the glue dried:

View attachment 122342

Surface tears, glue down and hold with low tack masking tape while the glue sets:

View attachment 122343

Inner and outer skins delaminating. Split deeper if necessary, brush in PVA, squeeze out and clean off excess glue, special tool to clamp while glue dries:

View attachment 122344

General tattyness improved by applying black shoe polish,

The essential special tool, many required:

View attachment 122345
Click to expand...
Horticultural Fleece.
Mac.
 
Thanks Phil. I think I may have to have a go at this myself, as I've got all of the necessary to hand, including the essential special tools!
 
I've found what looks to be fairly significant pitting on two of the valve seats in my cylinder head. I'm a bit gutted about this, as the rest of the engine looks to be in very good condition internally. The camshaft bearings and balancer chain and related gears in particular just don't look 23 years old. The bores appear good too. But it looks as though I'm going to have to darken the door of a local machine shop to get this sorted out :confused:

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TFG said:
I've found what looks to be fairly significant pitting on two of the valve seats in my cylinder head. I'm a bit gutted about this, as the rest of the engine looks to be in very good condition internally. The camshaft bearings and balancer chain and related gears in particular just don't look 23 years old. The bores appear good too. But it looks as though I'm going to have to darken the door of a local machine shop to get this sorted out :confused:

View attachment 122497
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My valve seats had slight pitting at 100k miles. I was able to lap a continuous grey band on all 6 so avoided a trip to the local machine shop.
I’m not so lucky with the bores, they look glazed to me. I can see the honing marks but can’t feel them. So off to a machine shop for an opinion. If my valve seats had looked like yours I would have been taking the head too.
 
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Took the head to my local machine shop. They tried to drop the valve seats back a fraction (around 0.1mm) to restore the surface. That did the trick with the smaller seats. The larger ones have had to be replaced. He's also given the head a very light skim. Just enough to clean the face up. It's turned into a bit of a costly diversion.

I now need to buy a new set of valves. The seats on the old ones look to have gone a bit concave to me and while I've got it all apart it seems silly not to sort them out. Does anybody have a recommendation on make? I slo see that 7Zap list two different lengths of valve for both inlet and exhaust. Later ones appear to be shorter. Is there any view one whether the later-spec ones should be used, when replacing, or should I stick to like-for-like? I'm wodering if the spec change was brought about by complaints of burnt valves.
 
"Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans" John Lennon.

I can't believe how badly wrong this has gone, back on the case soon.
 
TFG said:
Yes, I have. After a good 3-4 months without doing a thing on my AMF rebuild, I now have to shift the whole lot as a pile of bits as I’m about to move house. Nightmare.

Perhaps we can compare notes 😅
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When I get back on the case I will post up my experiences.
I think @CrispyEdd is doing a similar job but unlike myself will be compiling photographic records. I’m sure between us we will get three AMFs running 👍
 
I wish I'd taken more photos, that's for certain 😂

I went with Freccia valves btw, on the recommendation of the guy at the machine shop. AutoDoc sell both lengths, for both the inlet and exhaust.
 
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