Front Shock Removal

[Little Dog]

I did this work on my 2003 1.4 petrol with standard suspension (i.e. not SPORT) some months ago.
On the right side there is actually not enough room for the knuckle to be pushed far enough down to allow the damper to be free out of the knuckle, without removing the driveshaft from the hub.
Else the driveshaft gets stuck on some chassi parts and stops further downward movements of the knuckle.
Might be very different on the diesels.
Left side is ok though.

Replaced the top mounts last weekend. One side is very tight on a diesel due to the drive shaft contacting the sub-frame. Got it by turning the steering, tilting the hub assembly and pushing the strut to one side, I think towards the front of the car.

 

[Little Dog]

Steering arm??

Bolt the strut back in the upper mount. this takes the weight and helps when you pry the pinch apart using a wedge and hammer the knuckle off the bottom. The use of spring compressors, if VERY CAREFUL will give more room for the knuckle to drop but can be done without the spring compressors.

LOTS OF RELEASE AGENT AND LET IS SOAK

This is the tool Audi use..

View attachment 82931
You must remove the bolt and not just take the nut off. Remember all bolts / nuts will have to be replaced with new on reassembly.

I have a 3424 but I still need to pack the slot with lengths of hack saw blade to get the spread. I did this job at the week end, the bolts are not the stretch type so I ignored the manual and fit old bolts with new lock nuts.

 

[Howey]

I have a 3424 but I still need to pack the slot with lengths of hack saw blade to get the spread. I did this job at the week end, the bolts are not the stretch type so I ignored the manual and fit old bolts with new lock nuts.

Your lucky as these bolts are often heavily worn/corroded at the pinch point, fails me why they are designed with the threaded section in contact with the shocker/damper. I fitted bolts that have a longer shank (if that's the correct term) so the threads are not placed in a vulnerable position.
Good time to fully examine the front brake flexible hoses mine were in a very concerning state!

 

[Ami]

Why are you trying to remove the hub? The strut is removed from the top mount and splits from the steering knuckle. Hub , drive shaft and brakes all left in place. You need to disconnect the drop links and the wiring for the ABS, brake wear have to be unclipped from the strut. Lower ball joint split and with the upper bolts still in place the fitting for the lower pinch bolt spread and the knuckle hammered off down wards. Top bolt removed and the strut comes out.

You can remove the hub / drive shaft but it is optional.

There is a chance that you have the early ( original ) hub nut that requires a hexagon bit to remove (19mm)

I cut the head of a 19mm Mercedes wheel bolt & used it to remove the early one.

 

[Little Dog]

Your lucky as these bolts are often heavily worn/corroded at the pinch point, fails me why they are designed with the threaded section in contact with the shocker/damper. I fitted bolts that have a longer shank (if that's the correct term) so the threads are not placed in a vulnerable position.
Good time to fully examine the front brake flexible hoses mine were in a very concerning state!

Good you found those brake hoses.
I keep my bolts well greased so I degrease them, check them over, slap some fresh grease on and put them back in.