In search of comfort - Koni FSD

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Love the translation: "......the cathedral camps were to blame for it. After fruitless exchange of the belt poles and the Stabi storage, I was with my Latin already almost in ends." :)

I see you are suggesting a group buy on the German Forum. I might be interested, but will the FSDs fit sports suspension?
 
MPG Lover said:
I see you are suggesting a group buy on the German Forum. I might be interested, but will the FSDs fit sports suspension?

Hi MPG Lover,

I do not want to initiate a group-buy from Germany since I am convinced that the A2OC-members can negotiate a competitive price with a British Koni-distributor.

Although Britisch drivers obviously are more affected by wicked street conditions than us Krauts over here, personally I can’t understand that there are A2-folks intending to sell off their car mainly due to a simple compression damping incapability! :eek:



As for combining lowering springs and FSD shocks, you can do this up to a lowering rate of 35 mm without any problems:

So besides the standard non-lowered Audi springs you can still use FSD with following high quality sport springs:

- ABT
- AP
- Audi sport springs (S-line)
- Eibach Prokit
- Fintec
- FK
- KW
- Vogtland
- Weitec

More information, recommendations on engine type + spring type combos as well as supplementary links on each spring supplier is listed in the suspension thread:

http://www.a2oc.net/forum/showthread.php?t=4727

P.S. That funny translation-gimmick hopefully will also work for the subsequent thread-pages by pushing “next”…
 
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Hello GrayB.

I'm living with an A2 just outside Tunbridge Wells. And I swear that the ride is getting worse every week...

Would you be willing to demonstrate the change to me? I'd be very interested in comparing how yours rides compared with mine (1.4SE petrol, Oct 01).
 
I already have a set of Koni's, back and front, though I can't remember which ones, and that "metal on metal" sound does my head in. I have also got a set of Bembo Motorsports lowered springs (MOT station mention on the sheet that although there is no wheel rubbing, that the ride was very low and that the tyres sat a bit too high inside the bodywork) which are probably too hard for most peoples taste but I was wondering, can anything be done to reduce that "metal on metal" sound or is it just a new suspension package needed..?
 
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I already have a set of Koni's, back and front, though I can't remember which ones, and that "metal on metal" sound does my head in. I have also got a set of Bembo Motorsports lowered springs (MOT station mention on the sheet that although there is no wheel rubbing, that the ride was very low and that the tyres sat a bit too high inside the bodywork) which are probably too hard for most peoples taste but I was wondering, can anything be done to reduce that "metal on metal" sound or is it just a new suspension package needed..?

Hello EF MAX,

we need more info on your suspension setup, because these springs are hardly used for A2. I believe you meant BREMBO, a famous Italian performance brake system maker. Didn’t know they are doing springs also...


- Please check out the identification (numbers etc) of your springs, so we can determine
the spring rate and the spring free-length potentially.

- Do your springs come with linear or progressive characteristics?

- All Koni dampers do feature a part# being stamped on the housing.

- Have the dampers been tested for possible leaking (very improbable in case of Konis)?

- Do you encounter that "metal on metal" sound at the front or at both axes?

- Noise at left or right side?

- Or metal sound at middle front part (e.g. anti roll bar stiking the drive train during compression stage)?

- On level surface: We need the exact vertical distance between hub centre of each wheel and the fender.

- How long are your actual yellow bump stops per axis? Have they been shortened for your suspension setup?

- How much additional (non-stock) weight is permanently installed in your car per axis?

Thanks
 
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Do your springs come with linear or progressive characteristics?
I BELIEVE THAT THE ARE PROGRESSIVE

- All Koni dampers do feature a part# being stamped on the housing.
NOT WRITTEN ON THE INVOICE BUT PURCHASED FROM “AMD” IN MAY 04

- Have the dampers been tested for possible leaking (very improbable in case of Konis)?
NO, BUT THEY ARE STILL QUITE NEW (CAR DONE 51k, FITTED AT 9k)

- Do you encounter that "metal on metal" sound at the front or at both axes?
FRONT ONLY

- Noise at left or right side?
BOTH WHEELS

- Or metal sound at middle front part (e.g. anti roll bar stiking the drive train during compression stage)?
NO, ONLY THE WHEELS

- On level surface: We need the exact vertical distance between hub centre of each wheel and the fender.
REAR WHEEL (centre of hub to wheel arch edge) 295mm
FRONT WHEEL (centre of hub to wheel arch edge) 315mm

- How long are your actual yellow bump stops per axis? Have they been shortened for your suspension setup?
ORIGINAL FROM AUDI (sports suspension from new)

- How much additional (non-stock) weight is permanently installed in your car per axis?
STEORO HAS ADDED AT LEAST 110kg
 
Hello EF MAX, let’s do some “research“:



a) front axle:

Well, because both wheels at the front show that metal sound, we can most probably exlcude the stabiliser drop link rods, unless their bushings are worn at both sides by now.

But a strange metal sound often develops if the sleeves of the stabiliser anti roll bar are gone due to rust. The ARB can move in that case.

Your amount of lowering at the front plus the fact you are using the stock SE bumpstop length should still allow applying non-shortened drop link rods. Accordingly there shouldn’t be any probs with insufficient space between anti roll bar and drive train.



However there can be a big problem with isufficient spring pre-load at the front. Imagine everytime your car “falls“ into a deep pothole or manhole cover, your front springs (being obviously very short) are completely decompressed for a short moment. That can be quite dangerous, because the springs can leave their correct perch position. You can recheck that potential problem by turning the front Koni rebound damping completely stiff for a short test drive. If the metal sound then disappears, your front springs are much too short or much too soft for A2 requirements.

Another option can be the spring itself producing the front noise. So I would take a close look at the spring surface for coat flaking. If the spring rate is very soft, (too) many coils potentially will bind eating up valuable residual spring travel.


If you manage to “decipher“ the stamped Koni shock numbers, we can find out if your damper dimensions are suited for your actual springs or if they generally are too long for that specific application. At your amount of lowering you definitely need so called “rebound“ dampers that provide both spring pre-load in all driving situations and also sufficient piston stroke. In case your Konis do feature the standard A2 rod length, the internal shock valves maybe have been damaged already!
 
b) rear axle:

By using lowering springs on A2s, at 295 mm (corresponds to about 60 mm of lowering) distance the rear is certainly at the limit of residual spring travel. If the yellow bumpstops have not been shortended about 30 mm in your case, that does have a negative impact on dynamic driving stability. However before trimming them you have to check out the Koni identification numbers, or the bottom valve of the dampers can be destroyed potentially.






To conclude:

The most comfortable sporty solution (compared to your actual setup) would be the combo Koni FSD plus for example WEITEC 30/30 springs. But the main problem in your case is your large 110 kg boot load. Assuming a spring rate of about 40 N/mm the back should settle down to about 315 mm with that combo. That sadly would be much too low for the FSD shocks for working properly. More about the intelligent FSD operating modes is explained here:

http://www.a2oc.net/forum/showpost.php?p=45498&postcount=80

So Koni FSD is not possible in that special case, neither with the good WEITEC or ABT springs nor with your very low actual springs.



So with that large load of stereo equipment in the back the only practical solution - mobilising enough residual spring travel - are high quality coilovers. Then the A2 will not come close to its driving dynamical limits even if lowered below your actual height. That is based on perfectly matching

- spring rates being not too soft,
- springs being not too short,
- dampers supplying enough spring preload and piston stroke.


Referring to my personal (custom) setup I can highly recommend the set of Koni “yellow“ fitted FK Silverline-X coilovers. With a little modification of the damper internals of the front shocks these coilovers do provide superb riding characteristics, even with heavy rear load on bad roads. More to read here

http://www.a2oc.net/forum/showpost.php?p=36422&postcount=4
http://www.a2oc.net/forum/showthread.php?t=4727&page=8
http://www.der-a2.de/vbtest/showthread.php?t=22699

Another big advantage of course is the individual height adjustment according to best appearance. So no longer drooping rear.
 
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Thanks for all of that, I do have some reading to do.

The Koni's were the one's that AMD suggested and brought in for the A2, so I will have to have a look athem when I next get under the car.

The sound I get is only when I hit pot holes.. The springs are seriously hard (certainly not soft).. the ride at the beginning was new spring and old sports shocks.. did not like it, so I got the Koni's, first front and then backs.. as they are adjustable, this helped..

On smooth roads this set up is like a go kart, at a low rear setting and 1/3rd in on the front, the car is SOLID, you can hit roundabouts with a passion that will freighten most people and the closess I have got to that set up is on a little Lotus..

At speed, the car losses some composure but it does handles and lets you put the power down on the bends and corners that some tricked up cars just can not handle and in the wet it tames most roads,

BUT its around town that I get mad,, sleeping policemen are strictly 5mph jobs otherwise it hits them with a solid thump..

Everything was set up by AMD and I assume that they know their job in this department.
 
BUT its around town that I get mad,, sleeping policemen are strictly 5mph jobs otherwise it hits them with a solid thump..

Everything was set up by AMD and I assume that they know their job in this department.

Well if AMD had arranged a well working setup, obviously no strange metal sound would develop.;)

Personally I would change this unsatisfying status ASAP, since there are alternatives that unite LOTUS-like cornering abilities, normal speed-bump handling and high lowering rate.

IMHO your springs

- might generally be too short for A2s, thus potentially insufficient pre-load and
- don’t provide enough residual spring travel (that’s not uncommon at minus 60 mm without using coilovers).

So please keep us informed (you could start a new thread since Koni FSD can’t be applied).
 
Today I had the rear wheels off and had a look at the Konis.. stamped on the bottom is this reference number

80 2830 SPORTS

Also had a look at the springs.. they are seriously stiff, even with all that audio equipment in, I can still put three people in the back and the wheels don't rub.. with the car jacked up on a ramp.. the springs have 5 coils wrapped tight at the base and four unwrapped working their way up to the chassis.
 
Today I had the rear wheels off and had a look at the Konis.. stamped on the bottom is this reference number

80 2830 SPORTS

Also had a look at the springs.. they are seriously stiff, even with all that audio equipment in, I can still put three people in the back and the wheels don't rub.. with the car jacked up on a ramp.. the springs have 5 coils wrapped tight at the base and four unwrapped working their way up to the chassis.

Hi EF MAX,

that’s good info!

Rear:

The 80-2830 SPORTS yellow rear Konis are part of the regular set that is recommended for lowerings of 40 mm maximum. Below that, A2s MUST be fitted with # 80-2830SPD3. So our “research“ was successful because the needed SPD3 version comes with a shortened piston rod and the beforementioned “rebound“- feature.

In your case at about minus 50 mm at the front and minus 65 mm at the rear the piston rod can hit the bottom valve potentially during full compression stage. That means your compression valves could now be broken and have to be replaced.

With the SPD3 version however, at lowerings below 40 mm, there’s no danger of wrecking the bottom valve. Also your springs will always be preloaded due to the rebound sleeve. That is very important for safe operation.




Front:

So we can presume your front shocks to be the counterpart of 80-2830 SPORTS, i.e. #8710-1404Sport. Corresponding to the rears you definitely need the shortened and rebounded 8710-1404SPD3 version.

It would be interesting to see the actual condition of the front springs. Has the paintwork been flaking? If there are no visible imperfections there already seems to be a problem with the front shocks having smashed bottom valves at least. This also would be the cause for the abnormal metal sound over speed bumps.




What to do:

In Germany for instance there are at least two KONI-specialised firms that can modify any yellow and red shocks to your specs. I myself have had modded my front rebounded yellows at POOHL-POWER this year. They can retro fit the in your case needed „rebound“ feature and can also add a shortened rod if needed. In addition they would check all internals for damages (of the bottom valve e.g.) and change the oil if desired or necessary. New gaskets are assembled preventing future leaking.

Lastly they can carry out a damper test finally to verify the shock performance before sending them back to the customer. I hope there is an equivalent Koni dealer out there in UK.

In your case I would take the opportunity to add more compression strength at both the front and the rear dampers. Normally too much compression strength is to be avoided for the very light A2 rear part, but in your special circumstance (110 kg of stereo) this would support the back springs properly.

So I would like to recommend modified bottom valves having:

- 75 kg force in total at the front instead of about stock 45 kg
- 55 kg force in total at the rear instead of about stock 35 kg

This recommendation does include new oil, meaning high viscosity oil, that also would improve speed bumps handling noticeably.

Cheers


P.S. As for “springs are seriously stiff“, I bet your back already sits onto the non-shortened yellow PU bump stops permanently. So there is virtually no residual spring travel left. With the modified (shortened and rebounded) Konis it will be feasible to shorten the stock bump stop rubbers by about 30 mm and thus gaining free valuable residual spring travel at the rear. I would buy new front and rear bump stop rubbers for the altering. Your springs seem to be of progressive type by the way.
 
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Thank you so much.. Much infor from just a few numbers. I will have to look into all of this. I can not understand why AMD did not realise this as the springs were fitted to the car before they ordered and fitted the Koni's.

Would it be more practical to just order new shocks or try and find someone to retro repair my current units.. and if I ordered new, what would you recommend..

The paintwork on the springs, is like new, no flaking at all, just nice red paint all over..
I do not know if any damage has been done to the shocks as the car still handles like glue and chewing gum on a fluffy blanket.

Thanks again for all your words and help..
 
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Would it be more practical to just order new shocks or try and find someone to retro repair my current units..

Well I really don’t know how much it would finally cost to customise your existing 4 Konis, including

- 30 mm rebound sleeve
- shorter rod
- stronger bottom valve
- high viscosity oil
- new seals
- damper test





and if I ordered new, what would you recommend..

Hmm, to be honest, any lowering spring solution is suboptimal in your case – due to the large weight of stereo. The spring rates of all available A2 springs do not really factor in that permanent amount of additional load packed onto (or behind) the rear axle.

So any kind (linearly wound or progressively) or make of lowering springs will lead to an A2 that is considerably lower at the rear than at the front. In your case it is already 20 mm difference! Your car is extreme because your springs obviously are the shortest I’ve ever heard of. In fact they are too short because they don’t offer enough residual spring travel.

Regarding the shortening of the rear bump stops to create more free positive spring travel:
By removing let’s say 30 mm of PU bump stop material there’s the possibility that the rear part statically will be dropping. So a risk remains that you won’t be able to establish more travel at the rear and still keeping the (very low IMHO) 295 mm distance.

For that I would like to point out again, that a high quality coilover solution is perfect in your special case:

- continious height adjustment. You can even arrange a lower front than the rear.
- no more “trouble“ with the large stereo load leading to insufficient spring travel.
- enough spring preload
- enough damper rod travel

By deciding for the FK Silverline-X or the FK Koenigsport coilovers for instance, you definitely have to add the front bottom valve mod that I did this year. This cost me additonal 110 EUR but it was well worth the bucks. I can confirm that

a) you won’t have any probs with speed bump handling and
b) that general ride performance and car balance will be further enhanced.




P.S. Few question are left over however: When did the strange metal to metal noise first appear? After how many miles using the actual red springs plus your actual Konis?
If it was right from the beginning, then a faulty installation can be taken into consideration as well.
 
Problem from day one. When AMD fitted them, they said it was firm, but the roads around their Oxfordshire villiage are quite smooth..

I have to say again, that on open road, this car's handling is unbelievable, to the point of letting your ego run away with your common sense of danger.. I really want to hold on to that, as I have lowered and modded cars before by the handling on this was better than my TWR series 3 BMW or my AMG Merc.. I think coil overs will be my next major investment, as if I can retain this handling or even better it and get sweet low speed comfort as well, I may never get rid of the A2 unless someone sells me an A5 at a good deal..
 
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