Little Dog
A2OC Donor
For the second "axle stands" read "ramps"!
RAB
I had already decided to disregard the stands and drive the car onto ramps without its auxiliary drive belt.
Clarification appreciated, thanks.
For the second "axle stands" read "ramps"!
RAB
You only need to remove the engine mount to get access to the cam belt etc. Once these are removed, you could replace the mount temporarily. Otherwise you would need a frame to support the engine from the top. These are likely to be expensive.
RAB
Why fit the cam belt before the sump? Fit the sump and have done with it. Then support the engine with a jack with a wood block in between the jack and the sump and then replace the cam belt.
RAB
Somebody once suggested what I thought was a good idea. Employ a few longish finger tight studs studs (or decapitated bolts) to act as locating pins to bed the sump spot on first time and secure with remaining fixing points. Whip out studs and complete the job. Dry run and refine before.........
Reassembly though is not quite reversal as I only have 5 minutes to torque all the sump screws. I'll think of a way
.......
I'm not sure that you need to turn the crank to get to the two screws on the flywheel end of the sump. You will need a long driver to reach the screws - a T driver might be useful.
RAB
My timing belt kit came with a warning not to remove the tension holding tool. Unfortunately it came out in transit:
Can the tension be put back into the spring once the the assembly is on the car?
Thanks
I had the same thing happen. I got a strip of aluminium about 30mm wide and 4mm thick and about 2ft long, drilled and tapped it to take some bolts that lock into the casting of the tensioner, works a treat to pull it back and fit the 4mm dia locking pinThe supplier says I can so decided to get started.
Bollocks! Failed at the first hurdle:
Ribbed belt tensioner broke while trying to lock it. Didn't even get half way to the locking point and the hex sheared off. Best course of action cut the belt and fit all new???
Did it actually shear or just turn the corners off? 5/8ths socket usually fits the cast hex better than 16mm.
If it has sheared off completely then I would block it with some sort of lever against the engine mount, cut the belt and release the tension as carefully as you can.
Simon.
I had the same thing happen. I got a strip of aluminium about 30mm wide and 4mm thick and about 2ft long, drilled and tapped it to take some bolts that lock into the casting of the tensioner, works a treat to pull it back and fit the 4mm dia locking pin
Just release the three bolts securing the tensioner. No need to lock the tensioner before removing it. When you replace it, put it in a vice and lock it.
RAB