MOT fail

Pipe bending tool is a nice if you care about the finish, it's certainly the professional way but not essential. Kunifer is the only pipe I would use as copper is pants compared, flares poorly and next to zero chance of ever been undone in the future without twisting itself to oblivion.
I personally would never remove the hubs without renewing them as I have seen a very strong correlation between removing and refitting rear hubs and soon after that bearing failure.
Wire brush and brake cleaner should see the back plates nice and clean
 
Dinnae Ken said:
Oh well as you can see the hubs aff now. Will give it a guid clean one I get the cylinders aff. Nice tip ref the Kurust. Did you use a pipe bending tool for the brake pipe?
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Hi Ken, no special tool required for bending and the pipe is easy to shape ... a plumbers pipe cutter is handy for getting a clean square end 👍
 
This is the state of the hubs. Should I just replace them then?

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Hi Ken, you're doing a great job and have taken the time and trouble to get to this point, if you're keeping the car long term then personally I would replace the hubs with new ...
Just thinking about my previous reply regarding installing the brake shoes ... I did have to disconnect the spring that keeps them pre-assembled to fit over the hub but this seemed more straight forward than hub removal ... you then have to reattach the spring, I used an inner bicycle brake cable around the hook to pull it into place.
 
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You have gone to an awful amount of trouble to change shoes etc. A garage would not have gone down that route. If I had to remove the hubs to do the shoes on my 1.4 I would go the full hog and upgrade too discs on back… the same as my fsi.
 
Dinnae Ken said:
What's the best stuff from your experience to use to clean this up with?
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Brake cleaner, brake cleaner spray bottle, a drip tray and a brush.

That wasn’t the purpose of my post. At least two shoe slipper pads look almost worm through. A new set of 6 wouldn’t go amiss.
 
I see you point ref disc brakes but I'm a slow driver rarely go over 55mph. So, for me, disc brakes would be a bit of a waste on the back. I'm going to stick on new hubs, both sides were really stiff turning before I removed them, so probably not far from needing done anyways.

Considering replacing the backing plates too, would welcome any comments if it's worth doing or if a good clean will suffice. Priced up getting them blasted and powder coated, quoted £100 for the pair.
 
Dinnae Ken said:
I see you point ref disc brakes but I'm a slow driver rarely go over 55mph. So, for me, disc brakes would be a bit of a waste on the back. I'm going to stick on new hubs, both sides were really stiff turning before I removed them, so probably not far from needing done anyways.

Considering replacing the backing plates too, would welcome any comments if it's worth doing or if a good clean will suffice. Priced up getting them blasted and powder coated, quoted £100 for the pair.
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Last time I bought new backing plates, I think i only paid £100 for all 4 (1.6 FSi).
 
Backing plates on the drums are completely different to the disc ones. Just clean them up and if you wish paint them and reuse.
 
The nut holding the cylinder to the back plate is well and proper seized. Wd40'd it up and left for a few days to really soak in and it still won't budge and to top it off rounded it off a wee bit.

Any tips to get this nut loose? I even took the back plates off to get better purchase on the nut.

FYO I'm using the proper hex T30 bit.

Funny thing is the brake pipes came undone easy peasy.
 
philward said:
Brake cleaner, brake cleaner spray bottle, a drip tray and a brush.

That wasn’t the purpose of my post. At least two shoe slipper pads look almost worm through. A new set of 6 wouldn’t go amiss.
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Forgot to say thanks for the observation. Just to clarify the glide pieces part no

6N0609589​

 
WD40 is a waste of time unless you are using the PENETRANT version. much better is PB Blaster or Plusgas

Hold the nut in very tight mole grips then either use a spanner, adjustable spanner or parrot nose pliers to turn the brake cylinder.
 
if you have the backplate off it’s easy……just hacksaw or grind the wheel cylinder through the bolt. It’s knackered anyway, so just destroy it to remove it. The important it is to keep the back plate undamaged, the bolt is M6, and the cylinders are cheap and made of aluminium so it’s nice and soft.
 
Well done so far and keep at it! As you have found, there's a ton of useful help on here and a lot of owners who have been there, done it and got the tee shirt!
My only advice is too ask yourself at least twice over before you strip things down, "Is there really a need to take this apart?" I have lost count of the times that I regret doing this as it often becomes apparent, just as you break the most expensive/rare/Obsolete part, that it wasn't actually required to go that far after all!!!
Anyway, every job is a learning curve on the A2, however, for the most part, it is all actually less complicated than it may appear at first.
You clearly understand that it's not something to be completed in a few days and it'll take a while to plough through it all. As you have found, YT is a useful source of how to do things, and sometimes, how NOT to do them as well! Keep posting and asking for help as it will be here waiting for you.

Cheers
Gordon
 
Not sure if you were asking but yes 6N0609589 are the pads I was referring to.
I may have some advice on removing those cylinder screws, just need the check what you have on the car and what you bought.
Edit, it looks like you have aluminium cylinders on the car and you also bought aluminium. There is a good chance the screws won’t come out, probably solid with aluminium oxide. As the back plates are off I would drill the heads off. Be careful not to damage the back plate.
Fit new cylinders with new screws lubricated with a waterproof electrically insulating grease. I have a silicone version but used Vaseline for years.
 
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GordyC said:
Well done so far and keep at it! As you have found, there's a ton of useful help on here and a lot of owners who have been there, done it and got the tee shirt!
My only advice is too ask yourself at least twice over before you strip things down, "Is there really a need to take this apart?" I have lost count of the times that I regret doing this as it often becomes apparent, just as you break the most expensive/rare/Obsolete part, that it wasn't actually required to go that far after all!!!
Anyway, every job is a learning curve on the A2, however, for the most part, it is all actually less complicated than it may appear at first.
You clearly understand that it's not something to be completed in a few days and it'll take a while to plough through it all. As you have found, YT is a useful source of how to do things, and sometimes, how NOT to do them as well! Keep posting and asking for help as it will be here waiting for you.

Cheers
Gordon
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Aye fur sure Gordon. It's only because of this site and the help and support from members that I find myself in the position of confidence tackling this. I am also finding it interesting, learning and feeling a great sense of satisfaction working on the car.
 
Have been using Screwfix No Nonsense penetrating oil for years now, (750ml can for about £5.50) works just as well as Plusgas
and you needn't be shy with the big can.
After fitting a new cylinder or brake pipe I always spray all the parts outside the drum that can collect dirt with white lithium grease. Stops the brake pipe seizing into the fitting and gives a layer of protection over the bleed nipple and mounting bolt which I replace with a stainless one.
It can help shoe fitting if you put a cable tie around the cylinder pistons to keep the seals out of the way of the shoes. Once the shoes are fitted just snip it off.
 
philward said:
Not sure if you were asking but yes 6N0609589 are the pads I was referring to.
I may have some advice on removing those cylinder screws, just need the check what you have on the car and what you bought.
Edit, it looks like you have aluminium cylinders on the car and you also bought aluminium. There is a good chance the screws won’t come out, probably solid with aluminium oxide. As the back plates are off I would drill the heads off. Be careful not to damage the back plate.
Fit new cylinders with new screws lubricated with a waterproof electrically insulating grease. I have a silicone version but used Vaseline for years.
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.

Thanks for the advice. I'm going to order a full set and replace after I've cleaned up the backing plates.

Aye with the amount of pressure I was putting on them they are defo well seized. I've got that copper grease, will that do? Will tackle it over the weekend and see what the next hurdle is.
 
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