Please help!

O07JESTER

O07JESTER

Member
Hi Everyone today I replaced my tandem pump.All went very well until re fitting the intake flap assembly.The Bosch replacement pump has a slight difference in the casing in the fuel side.This means the casing on the flap motor is fowling on the pump.Is there such a part to extend the intake between the egr valve and flap motor?.
This sadly means I can't attend the Stanford hall show ?
Any advice greatly appreciated
20190504_103208.jpg
 
Really not what you want hear but I think you need a different pump, my ATL has a LuK pump.
Do your new and old pumps have the same part number including the letter?
Matt



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
If you take the flap assembly bolts out will the assembly twist and allow the flange to mate properly? Bit of a bodge but if so you can slot the bolt holes in the flap assembly and maybe still have enough land for the bolts to tighten up on to.

Simon.
 
Hi I went for the Bosch as the LUK pump seems to have a bad rep.Mine was leaking and the vac pipe was loose!.The site selling the Bosch pump stated it would fit the ATL engine,and it does and works perfectly.Just wondered if there was any way of extending the connector pipe without fabrication?

Many thanks
 
What is the gap that you have ?
I could machine a spacer plate out of aluminium if you provide the dimensions

Cheers Paul



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
What is the gap that you have ?
I could machine a spacer plate out of aluminium if you provide the dimensions

Cheers Paul



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Hi Depronman
Just been out to have a look.I think a spacer of 30mm should give me clearance

Cheers Martin
 
OK there are a couple of options
1) I can 3D print a spacer in ABS plastic ,this should be OK as it is effectively being clamped between the two faces, it will also be a lot cheaper and quicker
2) I can mill a spacer out of aluminium plate, this will be more expensive and take longer as I will firstly need to but some suitable aluminium stock plate 30mm thick, then set about programming my CNC mill to machine the spacer.

either way I will need some measurements, is there a gasket between the two faces that you could send to me and I can make the spacer to the dimension of the gasket. Alternative is to send me one of the matting parts of the spacer and either way some photos of both mating parts so I can see if there is anything that would foul
Obviously longer bolts will be needed, are they M6 or M8 bolts ?
 
depronman said:
OK there are a couple of options
1) I can 3D print a spacer in ABS plastic ,this should be OK as it is effectively being clamped between the two faces, it will also be a lot cheaper and quicker
2) I can mill a spacer out of aluminium plate, this will be more expensive and take longer as I will firstly need to but some suitable aluminium stock plate 30mm thick, then set about programming my CNC mill to machine the spacer.

either way I will need some measurements, is there a gasket between the two faces that you could send to me and I can make the spacer to the dimension of the gasket. Alternative is to send me one of the matting parts of the spacer and either way some photos of both mating parts so I can see if there is anything that would foul
Obviously longer bolts will be needed, are they M6 or M8 bolts ?
Click to expand...
Hi Paul,the mating parts are std egr pattern.'o' ring is on the egr,so just need an 'o' ring on opposite side for the flap motor connector pipe side.clearance is okay apart from where the vacuum pipe runs under the bottom flange bolt.Bolts are m6
 

Attachments

  • 20190504_191120.jpg
    20190504_191120.jpg
    2.2 MB · Views: 204
  • 20190504_191025.jpg
    20190504_191025.jpg
    1.8 MB · Views: 213
  • 20190504_191944.jpg
    20190504_191944.jpg
    1.3 MB · Views: 211
  • 20190504_191905.jpg
    20190504_191905.jpg
    1.5 MB · Views: 201
You have been supplied the wrong tandem pump. PITA to take it back off again but could you get the supplier to swap for the correct one?
 
Ok I can certainly make a spacer but will need one of the sides to measure up properly and get the hole positions
I don’t have an tdi 90 engine here so nothing to measure from
Let me know either way
Cheers
Paul


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Hi Paul,I think I've sorted it out.Bought another cast aluminium connector pipe.This will rotate the flap motor by around 45° but I'll "modify" the charge pipe on the inlet to the flap motor.
Thank you so much for your help
Cheers Martin
 
O07JESTER said:
Hi Paul,I think I've sorted it out.Bought another cast aluminium connector pipe.This will rotate the flap motor by around 45° but I'll "modify" the charge pipe on the inlet to the flap motor.
Thank you so much for your help
Cheers Martin
Click to expand...

Great that you are sorted


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Yes it is a pity the Bosch pump is not a direct swap for the LUK on the ATL engine. Had a look around and does not appear to be a commercially available adapter. So the only option available is getting another inlet pipe and modifying the two to get the clearance, or a short adapter to rotate the assembly past the pump. Both options not 5 minute jobs but if you have the parts and tooling available can be quite satisfying knowing your one off piece sorted the problem. @sco idea of rotating the assembly past the pump is not a bad idea and could well work at least short term. That is providing you can find some way of securing the parts together perhaps three plates ( modified washers ?) that can locate under the bolt heads that then grip onto the body as you tighten them together. Good luck and let us know how you finally resolve the problem.
 
Will do,I'm hoping it will be straight forward as the connector will be just an additional piece,the clockwise rotation will be reversed by flashing off the retaining wings on the charge pipe.When in the correct position I'll put in some self tap screws in.I had to do this on my vw touran TDI.The bottom charge pipe kept blowing off and the retaining clip system is useless when fatigue sets in.
So oily hands and a split knuckle this weekend :)
 
I used an allard egr delete kit from ebay to get over this. I still had to spend some time cutting the tube and adapting the different mating faces. (The hole pattern is different to the m
51068
anifold to egr and the main bore changes, so some bore matching will be necessary for no performance loss) End result is a dogs dinner but it works !
20190223_165052.jpg
Not sure if this is still available through allard, gloucester; not listed on ebay any longer.
It is worth doing as the bosch pump improves brake response and feel i found.
Regarding the metal gasket, I do not see why this needs to be replaced. It should not have distorted and will not wear like a rubber deal. Cleanliness and a smear of sealant did it for me.
 
oko said:
I used an allard egr delete kit from ebay to get over this. I still had to spend some time cutting the tube and adapting the different mating faces. (The hole pattern is different to the mView attachment 51068anifold to egr and the main bore changes, so some bore matching will be necessary for no performance loss) End result is a dogs dinner but it works ! View attachment 51068Not sure if this is still available through allard, gloucester; not listed on ebay any longer.
It is worth doing as the bosch pump improves brake response and feel i found.
Regarding the metal gasket, I do not see why this needs to be replaced. It should not have distorted and will not wear like a rubber deal. Cleanliness and a smear of sealant did it for me.
Click to expand...
That's pretty much the result I'm hoping for.but im going for the stock connector as this will fit perfectly.my bodge will be to correct the inlet pipe.Its annoying as I think the Bosch pump is the best option but on ATL it's made a PITA because of the intake setup
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top