I must take issue there. For the majority of engines, a custom-remap is not really necessary; unless the car's hardware is significantly away from stock (e.g. different turbo, or larger injectors), or very ill, then a "basic chip" as you say will be perfectly adequate. The map in that chip will have at some point been developed on a normal motor, so provided it was developed by someone who knows what they are doing, with the ECU having inbuilt adaption it will cope with very small differences in tolerance for each motor/fuel.
A custom re-map is certainly the way forward if you're the first up with that spec (e.g. noone else has had a map done on a certain car before), or there's something very unusual about your set-up (bigger turbo, intercooler, injectors etc), or you're chasing a certain style of driving and you want the car to be tuned to how you drive (e.g. you absolutely must have an engine that revs way past the standard redline!) .
A rolling-road does not necessarily equate to best map either - even with the best setups you get major heat soak issues, and as I mentioned before, you end up chasing big numbers (which are probably not accurate), which doesn't necessarily translate into driveability, or reliability.
Locale is an issue. The best mapper in the world maybe living in Russia for all we know, but I'd rather not travel all that way to get there, especially with the cost of fuel these days
You pay your money and make your choice.