Sarge's A2 Servicing Information

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A2OC Donor
I thought I'd start yet another thread with general information on working with the 'A2'. One could say I'm doing myself out of a job! but I like to think people should be helped along, and anyway, I'd like to think that if they decided not to DIY then they can always come to people like me!
I will explain things at a basic level - in layman's terms, (I consider myself to be a layman :)), this should cover those who don't know or haven't done any mechanical work before, and hopefully will encourage you to start working on your own cars.

There are other reasons for this thread, one reason is that I hope this thread helps ease workload on regular members who are constantly dealing with repetitive questions, and eventually I hope this thread will have enough basic information to cover those generally repetitive questions.
Another reason for this thread is that I'm increasingly seeing owners considering jumping ship just because they are unsure as to the costs for repairs for their old/er cars and some wishing they could go the DIY route only if they knew how!

I will add/update/correct this thread as/when I get the time, so please bear with me. If there is any info you wish to have added here, then please let me know. Also if you think there is any mistakes then please bring them to my attention, I'll happily stand corrected :D. If you are doing your own work on the A2, then I would 'strongly' recommend having a Torque Wrench/s with appropriate range values for working with the A2, it is an invaluable tool! These are available in different types i.e Foot Lbs and Newton Metres. For all intents and purposes, I am quoting all torques in Newton Metres. You will need to convert if your using other torque wrenches, this is very important to get it right the first time, and to avoid damage!.

I will try to keep it uniform for ease of use, all additions/suggestions/opinions are openly welcome.
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I am making all this information available to you personally, I own all the information in this thread. I have the right to remove it in it's entirety at any time I see fit, it contains my personal methods, experiences, opinions and views. Although I will make this thread as accurate as possible with the information I share, neither I, nor, take any responsibility for any damage/losses/injuries incurred in any shape or form whatsoever, you are advised to take the information as a guidance and to do so, is entirely at your own risk! By accessing and reading this thread you agree acceptance of this fact. This thread and any other posts I put up are copyright, no one has the right to post this information elsewhere off this forum without my express permission.

Please Note: Always see safety as number one priority, always secure vehicle safely, use additional forms of support especially whilst working underneath the car, (NEVER just rely on a hydraulic jack, use axle stands!), use protection like gloves, eye protection, appropriate foot wear and use the correct tools.

Please Note: In order to keep things tidy, you will not be able to post on this thread, any comments, suggestions, requests, can be made on the thread here: >>> <<<

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Post 1 : Introduction/Index
Post 2 : Torque specifications

Post 3 : Removal of the Under tray (also known as Noise Insulation).
Post 4 : Air Filter (all engines)
Post 5 : Oil Filter Diesel Engine
Post 6 : Oil Filter Petrol Engine
Post 7 : Cabin filter
Post 8 : Spark Plugs
Post 9 : Glow plugs
Post 10 : Brake Pads/Shoes checking thickness
Post 11 : Cooling system: checking antifreeze and topping up with coolant if necessary
Post 12 : Jacking points
Post 13 : Door Trim Removal
Post 14 : Door check strap
Post 15 : Checking Brake fluid level
Post 16 : 'How To' Tutorial Collection
Post 17 : 'How To' Change the cowl panel grille (Cover under the wiper arm and bottom of windscreen)
Post 18 : 'How To' Remove Cylinder Head Cover (done on TDi 75 AMF Engine)
Post 19 : Removing and installing electrical wiring harness for unit (fuel) injectors (done on TDi 75 AMF Engine); Misfiring TDI? Read!
Post 20 : Removing Glovebox
Post 21 : Removing Interior Heater Fan Motor
Post 22 : Rattle Under the Dashboard area
Post 23 : Removal of Rear Brake Drums - safely
Post 24 : Fault - Not starting, Engine cranks, occasionally feels like it tries to fire, but doesn't start - (done on AUA 1.4 Petrol engine)
Post 24 : Also includes Throttle Body Cleaning Procedure
Post 25 : How to remove Bonnet Grill
Post 26 : Audi Open Sky Sunroof Systems - Service Training - Self Study Program 378
Post 27 : 'How To' remove and refit the steering wheel
Post 28 : 'How To' open CCCU (Comfort Unit)
Post 29 : 'How To' remove rear bumper cover
Post 30 : 'How to' remove rear bumper cross member (or metal bar) and the support brackets
Post 31 : 'How To' door trim aluminium cover removal
Post 32 : 'How To' Door window frame removal (with glass)
Post 33 : 'How to' Door lock mechanism removal (including the micro switch)
Post 34 : 'How to' Remove door handle and rear mount
Post 35 : TDI Owners – ** MUST READ ** Advice for the TDi owner – Warning/Advice - Oil Pump Chain and Tensioner
Post 36 : Removing Centre Vents
Post 37 : Removing cup holder and hazard switch
Post 38 : Some codes for sensors, switches, relays and and what they mean
Post 39 : FSi Coolant Sensor Change
Post 40 : FSI (engine code BAD)- Removing and installing map-controlled engine cooling thermostat
Post 41 : FSi (Engine code: BAD) Overheating, Steam coming out of expansion tank (globe)

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Audi A2 Torque Settings (in Newton Metres (Nm))

ITEM - Nm:
Oil Filter Metal can type - 20
Oil Filter Paper Element type - 25
Oil Drain Plug (also know as Sump Plug) - 30
Spark Plugs - 30
Track Rod Ball Joints - 50
Wheel Bolts - 120
Wiper Arm Small Nut - 10
Wiper Arm Large Nut - 21
Battery Terminal - 5
Fuel Filter Plastic Drum Housing Element Type Sealing Cap - 25
Fuel Filter Plastic Drum Housing Element Type Drain Plug - 2
Gearbox Oil Filler Plug - 25
Injector holder - 20
Glow Plugs - 15
Exhaust manifold to cylinder head - 25
Turbo charger to exhaust manifold (bolt should be renewed) - 25
Heat shield to exhaust manifold - 22
Oil return pipe to Cylinder Block - 30
Oil return pipe to Turbocharger - 15
Oil Supply pipe to Turbocharger - 22
Air pipe to Turbocharger - 8
Air pipe to Sump - 8
Air pipe to Body - 8
Air pipe to turbocharger - 8
Air pipe to body - 8
Drive shaft heat shield to cylinder block - 33
Engine cover panel to bracket - 5.5
Battery plus (+) cable to starter - 16
Earth wire to gearbox - 22
Bracket for wiring harness to coolant hose/pipe connection on back end of engine -10
Drive shaft heat shield to cylinder block - 33
Pendulum support to subframe (single bolt) - 40 + 90 degree
Pendulum Support to gearbox (3x bolts) - 50
Rear of Pendulum support to front section (single bolt) - 40 + 90 degree
Coolant pump (water pump) to cylinder - 15
Thermostat housing to cylinder block - 15
Charge air cooler to radiator - 6
Radiator to radiator cowl - 6
Retaining bolt for radiator fan to radiator cowl - 5
Radiator fan control unit - 5
Condenser to to radiator cowl - 6
Air ducts to radiator cowl - 1.5
Alternator to bracket - 25
Poly V belt tensioner - 25
Terminal 30/B+ cable to alternator - 16
Starter to engine - 65
Terminal B+ to starter motor - 16
Earth cable to starter motor - 22
bracket to starter motor - 22
Water collecting tank to ABS unit - 6
Driveshaft to flange - 23
Sump to block - initially torque to 5 diagonally, then torque to - 15
Dipstick tube - 9
Flywheel to crankshaft - 60+90 degrees
Sump to gearbox - 45

Types of bolts and torques to tighten them too:

Type: - Nm

M6 - 10 (on ATL engine - 9)
M7 - 15
M8 - 22 (on ATL engine - 20)
M10 - 40
M12 - 65

M6x12 - 10
M10x50 - 40
M12x55 - 80
M12x65 - 80
M12x135 - 80
M12x150 - 80
M12x80 - 80
M10x50 - 40
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Removal of Under tray (also known as Noise Insulation):

There is twelve screws holding on the under tray, please note there is also two 10mm nuts (one under each arch).

On the earlier Diesels there was a pipe for the Webasto fitted to the under tray. The three screws for this pipe almost always seize solid into the clips, will need replacing. I have seen several cars come to me where the previous mechanic has removed the under tray, by breaking the seized screws for the Webasto pipe, then not refitting/securing it back on, the result of this is that the vibrations of the engine, cause the loose pipe to vibrate and cause damage to the under tray as in pic's. There is also reports of knocking noises, this can be caused by the pipe banging around loosely. Must be resecured!

On the Diesel under tray there is noise insulation as in one picture.

Tip: If your under tray is missing, replace it immediately!, this forms part of the front structure and without it you will cause issues, including a noticeable increase in fuel consumption, shuddering front end of car at higher speeds, and possibly other kinds of damage!

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Air Filter:

The Air Filter is located up under the front bumper, on the drivers side (RHD) behind the fog light. To access it, you will need to remove the Under tray and then you can see it. It can be fiddly as one of the two screws is hidden access to it and may mean the bumper edge will need to be held forward with one hand whilst unscrewing the screw. A cross head (also know as philips) is needed.
Remove the cover, pull out the old filter, 'clean' the housing inside and the cover before refitting, which is the reverse.

Please note: There is a lug on the cover which needs to be inserted into position at an angle first, then the two screws will line up and then need to be tightened up, failure to do this will mean air (and dirt) being sucked into the system which will cause problems, some probably at a later stage, others being reported with a DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code).

Tip: The two screws on the cover do not need to be fully removed too remove the cover, they drop down but to release from the thread, but remain in the cover at all times.

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Oil Filter Diesel Engine:

Engine Codes ATL, AMF, BHC.
Remove Engine Cover Panel by removing the three bolts. You will then see the oil filter. Unscrew the cap (or housing whatever you want to call it), lift and remove the filter, pull away old filter out from cap. In with the new filter, you will have two new seals, the small usually comes pre-fitted but the one on the cap after the threads, will need to be changed. I have seen that some people hadn't removed the old seal on the cap (probably not noticed it as it might have been covered in oil and become unnoticeable), and just fitted the new one over it! hence two seals, please take care and remove old seal and fit the new one supplied. Clean cap thoroughly, put new filter into cap, smear clean oil on the seal before tightening up.
The cap is a plastic cap and it must be torqued to correct specifications when refitted.

Tip: push in new filter into the cap till you hear it clicks to seat it correctly.

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Oil Filter Petrol Engines:

The oil filter is located behind the exhaust pipes, You may need to remove the exhaust heat shield if your new to doing this although I don't need to do this. Also disconnect the oil filler pipe. Place a cloth directly under the filter where it meets the block as there will be some oil run from there upon removal. You will need a 30mm socket or spanner, to undo the filter and simply turn anti-clockwise to undo, it is a tight fit to get the tool in there and your hands, but its doable. I have found these are usually unnecessarily overtightened but it must be torqued to correct specification when replacing it.
When refitting the new filter, lightly smear the seal with a little fresh clean oil before refitting.

Tip: Don't forget to remove your oil filled cloth and Don't forget to reconnect the oil filler pipe back before refilling with oil!!
Tip: Whilst using unscrewing and refitting filter, be sure not to let the tools touch the back of the alternator, there is a high amps +12 supply there, which is a direct connection to the battery, effectively causing a short circuit! if unsure, disconnect the negative cable to the battery.
Note: if you disconnect battery your stereo may need the code, be sure you have this first!

Pic's below are two petrol engines, AUA (1.4) with heat shield, BAD (1.6FSi) with heat shield over exhaust pipes, then the rest 3 pic's with heat shield removed to show filter on the BAD engine.

DSC00167.JPG DSC00708.JPG DSC00714.JPG DSC00715.JPG DSC00716.JPG
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Cabin Filter:

The cabin filter (also known as Pollen Filter) is located under the glove box. The filter element is available in various versions. Only the dust and pollen filter version is currently fitted by Audi. A combined filter version (with integrated odour filter) is, for example provided for VW models.

Remove flap from trim below glove box:
Cover the carpet in the front passenger's footwell, below the dust and pollen filter with paper (in order to catch any dirt which may fall out).

Push both sliding pieces together towards the centre.
Remove filter cover.
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Remove dust and pollen filter together with filter frame from housing
Separate filter from filter frame

Ensure correct flow direction “arrow”-A- when inserting filter in filter frame.
Insert the first layer of the filter, in the filter frame, according to the illustration. You must ensure that no air can flow past the filter.

I've taken pic's from a unit I have in storage, hopefully these pics will make it clearer

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Spark Plugs (petrol engines):

AUA Engine:

Detach spark plug connectors -1- and unclip cables.
Remove spark plugs using spark plug socket.
Install new spark plugs using spark plug socket.
Check that ignition cables and spark plug connectors are correctly seated.

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FSI Engine (4-cyl. engines (BBY) and FSI engines (BAD)):
For these a special tool is recommended, however the coil packs can and usually are lifted up carefully using general tools like a large flat bladed screwdriver or improvise!
Only for FSI engines, Disconnect the hose from the oil filler connection.

DSC00708.JPG 20130521_130715.jpg

Using the puller or a suitable tool lift and remove the coil packs (also know as Pencil type ignition coils).
With the ignition switched off, disconnect the connectors from the ignition coils.
Remove plugs
Refit new plugs and refit these types of coil packs with the connectors plugged in onto the spark plugs.
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Glow Plugs (Diesel Engines):

Remove cover
Carefully unplug electrical connectors on glow plugs by pulling straight up.
Remove glow plugs using proper tool or a 'long' 10mm socket, Unscrew slowly and evenly, whilst holding the tool being used straight and true.
When inserting/refitting new glow plug, turn half a turn anti-clockwise (always good practice), you will feel it drop into the old thread, then start turning clockwise to tighten. Torque to correct specification!! do not over tighten or you'll cause damage!

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Brake Pads/Shoes Checking thickness:

When brake pad thickness is down to 7mm (including backplate) the brake pads have reached their wear limit and must be renewed

DSC00754.JPG DSC00755.JPG DSC00756.JPG

Rear Brake shoes lining inspection, via hole in back plate (using a torch). Wear limit 2.5mm (lining only). If brake lining is down to 2.5m, the brake linings have reached the wear limit and must be renewed.
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Cooling system: checking antifreeze and topping up with coolant if necessary


All engines are filled with the anti-freeze and anti-corrosion agent G 012 A8 D according to TL -VW 774 D-. Ensure that only G 13 (Now only G 13 is available from Audi - coloured red) is used when topping up.[/TD]
Never use G 011 A8 C. The two different coolant additives G 011 A8 C and G 012 A8 D must never be mixed. Mixing the two could result in serious damage to the engine.

Checking coolant level and topping up with coolant if necessary.
Check coolant level on expansion tank while the engine is cold.
Coolant level between min and max markings.
If coolant level is too low, add required amount (using correct mixture ratio).[/TD]

If the fluid in the expansion tank is brown, this means G 012 A8 D has been mixed with another type of coolant. If this should be the case, flush out the cooling system and change coolant (repair measure). To flush the system, fill it with clean water and run the engine for about 2 minutes. This should remove most of the old coolant.

Some people use De-ionized water (also known as distilled water usually used in car battery top ups and irons etc) in the coolant system - Thanks Richard
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Jacking Points:

The jacking points are located on the sill's and concealed by round plastic covers. Push in at the bottom of the covers at a 6 o'clock position and the top of the cover will pop open, take it of and let it drop on it's strap, you will now see the jacking point where the factory jack can be fitted, and vehicle lifted. Always try to use other forms of support like an axle stand too!


The jacking points for car lifts and trolley jack as well as Axle Stands is as shown below. Place 'well' clear of the plastic sill's, I have seen a lot of damaged sill's which are easily done.

Tip: Use some sort of wooden or solid rubber block on the jack or axle stands to protect the cars metal and paint!

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Door Trim Removal

How to remove the drivers (or any other door) door trim.

Remove 2 screws under the door handle
Remove 1 screw under the tweeter speaker grill
Slide finger along underside of door trim and feel a gap from where you can insert a finger and prise away the door trim.
Detach the door handle handle cable, the wiring for the tweeter speaker, and wiring for the controls on the trim.

Pictures attached from Shoby Car :)

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Door Check Strap

Remove door trim as above.
You will now see the check strap, this is fitted onto the door with two 10mm nuts and on the 'A' pillar via a pin hidden under the rubber cover. To remove pin, put something behind it to protect the body work and look closely at the top of the pin, there is a lug that is there to stop the pin working loose and down and out by itself, a gentle push of this lug inwards will allow the pin to release by gently tapping it on the top, knocking it through, this will release the bar.

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Checking Brake Fluid Level

Brake fluid level is dependant on two things, brake pad wear and leaks.
Always use only genuine brake fluid available from dealers This is DOT 4 and use only from a sealed container. Discard those containers we've got lying in the shed or garage for years!

Brake fluid is poisonous. It also has caustic properties and must therefore not be allowed to come into contact with paintwork.
Brake fluid is hygroscopic, i.e. it absorbs moisture from the surrounding air. It must therefore always be stored in air-tight containers.
The fluid level must be at the MAX mark.

When checking brake fluid, always account for the wear of brake pads, if the pads are new or long way from needing renewing, then levels should be at between MIN and MAX marks.

If the brake fluid level is at or slightly above the MIN marking and the brake pads have almost reached the wear limit, topping up is not required.
If the brake fluid has reached MIN mark, check the brake system!
It is recommended to change the brake fluid every two years!

Brake fluid must on no account come into contact with liquids containing mineral oils (oil, petrol, cleaning agents). Mineral oils damage the plugs and sleeves in the brake system.

Brake fluid is poisonous and must under no circumstances be sucked through a tube using the mouth. Because of its caustic properties it must also not come into contact with paintwork.
Brake fluid is hygroscopic, i.e. it absorbs moisture from the surrounding air. It must therefore always be stored in air-tight containers.
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'How To' Change the
cowl panel grille (Cover under the wiper arm and bottom of windscreen)

If you have a cracked cover, then you should change this, there was a lot of rubbish under there and rusting screws etc. Clean it under there and replace the two screws as shown.

Remove Wiper arm (1x 16mm and 1x 10mm nuts under plastic caps). The removal of the wiper arm is not always an easy task, just keep jiggling the arm side to side and persevere and eventually it will work loose, you could try to use a puller device but not everyone's got one, therefore keep playing with it and it'll lift away. You may need to reposition the Wiper arm to gain access to the lower nut, as well as allowing you a better way to hold and work the arm loose. Don't forget to reset the wiper in 'off' position and lubricate the spindle before realigning and reconnecting the arm.
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If fitted, remove and unplug electrical connectors for heated washer jets. Be careful with these as the plastics holding these connectors is extremely weak and very easily breakable! also detach water drain hose. Pull away the rubber seal on the cover. The two rusted screws show are for the fresh air duct, replace them. lift up cover, and disconnect the pipes and wiring then move it over on to the new panel and fit it on that Also remove and transfer the rubber grommet around the wiper spindles to new cover.
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Clean up under the body under the panel and replace with the new panel.

I'm unable to upload more pictures to show you. Refitting is the reverse.

Part number for the two screws is: N-103-546-02
Part number for the Cowl Panel Grill (cover) is: 8Z2-819-403-D0 01C

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'How To' Remove Cylinder Head Cover (done on TDi 75 AMF Engine).

Fault: Engine running very rough, little power struggles to move.
Scan on car shows fault as:

18074 - PD Unit Injector; Cylinder 1 (N240)
P1666 - 35-10 - Electrical Malfunction - Intermittent

Repair/fix: Replace injector wiring loom.

Remove engine cover (3x 10mm nuts)
Remove wiper arm as above
Remove fresh air duct (3x 10mm nuts and 2x screws fitted from under the cowl Panel grille as shown in last post 17)

Disconnect crankcase breather pipe
DSC00806 pipe marked.jpg

Remove toothed belt (Cambelt) cover - (via two clips) - TIP: You can just move it forward instead of removing it totally.
DSC00803 marked clips.jpg

Remove cylinder head cover. There is 11x 10mm bolts. Now 8 bolts you can see are easily accessed, even the top left is not too bad, however the top middle and top right are a real pain, you will end up spending a fair amount of time trying to access these two and they will cause you a little grief!
The bolts do not come out completely, they are the type that you loosen and lift up to clear the thread, but they do not come out of the cover so don't expect to remove them! Unless all the bolts are fully loose, (check them by lifting up), the cover will not come off!! the two at the top are the ones that will prevent the cover from lifting off! Detach bracket with fuel pipes, Remove Cover
DSC00805 marked.jpg DSC00823.JPG

Refitting is the reverse, but clean both the seal and the mating surface area on the head, and inspect the seal properly, can save a lot of headache! if seal is damaged then replace it!

Tighten the head cover bolts to 10Nm Torque
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Removing and installing electrical wiring harness for fuel injectors (done on TDi 75 AMF Engine)

Fault: Engine running very rough, little power struggles to move, Instrument Cluster (Clocks) may show warning lights ABS and ESP as well as triple loud beeps

Scan on car shows fault as:

18074 - PD Unit Injector; Cylinder 1 (N240)
P1666 - 35-10 - Electrical Malfunction - Intermittent

Repair/fix: Replace injector wiring loom.

Remove engine cover.
Remove Wiper arm (as in post 17)
Remove Cylinder Head Cover (as above post 18)

To unplug multi-pin connector for unit (fuel) injectors, turn & slacken knurled nut. loosen the bracket bolt, remove bracket, undo and remove two 10mm bolts mounting the other half of the round multi-pin connector to the cylinder head.

BE CAREFUL HERE: The plastic on this loom is very brittle, it will snap bits off it very easily and the last thing you want is bits down the engine!!! Best is to get
3 pieces of clean cloth, fill the area under the connector with it, thereby preventing anything going down there before you touch it!

Pry off connector upwards from the unit injector using a flat screwdriver, carefully in a controlled manner. Press gently against the other side of connector with finger to prevent it from tilting.


Look at the new loom, it will show you where the removed wiring connector seats onto the plastic frame, carefully seat the connectors onto the plastic frame.
Pull loom frame forward a little and when the two metal clips on the frame are clear, use a thin screwdriver to un-clip and remove the two metal clips. Slide loom out carefully.
On the new loom, un-clip the metal clips and remove them, slide new loom into cylinder head, but leaving a little bit out, carefully remount the two metal clips, they must 'click' when correctly connected, then slide the loom home till the metal clips are holding it in position. Tighten the round connector, check everything and then reconnect injectors to the new connectors.
Remove your 3 pieces of clean cloth (now not so clean :)) DOUBLE CHECK EVERYTHING TAKING TIME!

Fitting is the reverse
Make sure the round multi-pin connector is mated back together carefully and turn it clockwise to lock it till it 'clicks' back in position, there is a yellow line marking on the both sides of the connector which shows it is locked in position.

Multi-pin connector to the cylinder head is tightened to 10Nm

Injector wiring harness part number: 045-971-600
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Removing Glovebox

To remove the glovebox as below:

There are five screws that hold the glovebox in place. Open the glovebox to access three of them are along the front edge with one of them hidden under a coin holder (which can be prised out from underneath). The remaining two are underneath, one being on the right side of the pollen filter cover, and the other being hidden under the left hand side kick panel trim (A Pillar trim).

Remove left hand kick panel side trim (A pillar), this is clipped in place and needs a tug to lift it out (remove any floor mats in the way) then the screw under it will be revealed.


Remove screw all other remaining screws.

Tip: Note that when lifting off glovebox unit, be careful not to break the wiring for the glovebox light connector.
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