Sarge's A2 Servicing Information

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Removing Interior Heater Fan Motor

Fault: No heater fan motor action, the fan speed indication on the climate control may show increasing bars then drop down to one bar but fan doesn't work. This usually is the fault with the heater fan motor and to replace it is as below.
Disconnect car's battery, (don't forget that your stereo may want the security code if this is done).

Remove Glovebox as in
Post 20 above.This will reveal the motor as shown below.

There are five screws, the top two of these, (but top left one more so), are terrible to get too, but, doable with patience.
Remove the five screws and the fan can be removed. There is also the electrical connector which will need to be disconnected before fan will fully come away.
The most troublesome screw is the top left one, if you look closely, you will see that there is a hole right through the aluminium dash frame (between the plastic dash cover and the frame) that lines up with this screw, use a screwdriver through it to get to the top left screw.
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Note: There is the passenger Airbag located sort of opposite the motor, it shouldn't be in the way at all but do take care.
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Rattle under dashboard area

Just a note: If you are getting a rattle which seems to be coming from the drivers side dashboard, there is another possibility. The dashboard is secured partly with a 2 piece thin metal strip, joint by being spot welded, it is located on the drivers side as seen in the pics. This strip is released only by accessing the bolt on the body, which is located under the wiper motor.

People either don't know about this bolt, or they avoid having to remove it, as it involves a lot more work (wipers, Cowling, wiper motor ...). This means that if the dashboard is removed and/or other work is carried out with ref to movement of the dashboard, this strip can break from the weak welded joint, and the two halves make contact flapping around and can cause the rattling.

The pictures taken during my Shoby Car rebuild, show the (broken) two halves of the strip, the dashboard is pictured upside down :)

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Removal of Rear Brake Drums - safely

Removing of the rear drums is relatively easy, however if you don't know what your doing, then you can quite easily damage the brake cylinders which can start to leak, shoes and other parts inside. I have seen it where the removal of the drums has been forced off with the use of tools like a hammer or a crowbar. Using a hammer on the sides of the drums without control can actually warp the drums.

Secure car so it won't move, Jack vehicle, use additional supports like axle stands and remove the wheel, there will be a small cross head screw (now replaced with a star type of screw from the dealers) in the outside face of the drums - I strongly suggest getting some spare screws 'before' starting work on the brakes. Remove this screw.

Release the handbrake and turn the drum to position one of the 5 holes to between the '2 and 3 O'Clock' position.
You may want to apply the handbrake again at this point to stop the drum rotating. If you shine a torch into the hole, you will see there is a small metal adjuster bar which drops through vertically, insert a flat blade screwdriver into the hole aligned, and just enter under bottom of the the adjuster where the spring is connected too, then lift up the adjuster bar. Once you lift this bar upwards, you will feel and hear the shoes retract inwards, coming away from the inside of the drum. Now with the shoes retracted, the drum will come away quite easily. Please see pictures below.
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Fault - Not starting Engine cranks, occasionally feels like it tries to fire, but doesn't start - (done on AUA 1.4 Petrol Engine)

Also includes Throttle Body Cleaning Procedure

Engine - Petrol 1.4i AUA Engine (could apply to other/all engines)
Other symptoms - From time to time it would take several attempts to start - when warm -especially if stalled!, uneven revs.
Scanned car and no errors logged, saved scan.
Repair/fix - Remove throttle body, clean thoroughly, refit, do electronic Throttle Body Alignment (TBA).
Conclusion -throttle butterfly not opening, therefore no air getting into engine, therefore won't start.

Car ran fine, and parked up all happy night before. Next morning not starting, this was puzzling as there was no DTC's (Diagnostic Trouble Codes) logged in the cars computer-non! Got a little concerned as cranking sounded unusual, for a moment heart skipped a beat thinking Cambelt, checked belt all fine!.
I changed the fuel filter as it needed changing anyway and it would be another item crossed of the virtual check list. Still not starting, checked for spark-fine, and checked fuel pump, all fine, Hmmm a bit of head scratching, and decided to remove the Throttle body, and clean it.

Remove fresh air duct (3x 10mm nuts and 2x screws fitted from under the cowl Panel grille as shown in last post 17)
Remove the big plastic air box by removing the one screw in front, then undo jubilee clip around the throttle body, remove pipe connected at back of air box, lift out the air box. Thoroughly clean the pipe connected at back of air box, this will have a milky sludge build up inside and may be blocked all the way back to the Barometric pressure sensor! clean sensor too if necessary.
The removal of the throttle body can also be done with the air box loosened, moved a little aside, and left in situ, thereby not needing to go through steps in post 17, but you'll not be able to clean up the pipe at back properly.

Remove electrical connector to the throttle body and remove 4x bolts, lift away throttle body.
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Clean body thoroughly using degreaser and I used a strong old toothbrush to keep scrubbing over the dirt without damaging and scoring it inside. Keep the covered side dry and away from any liquids as it has the motor and other spring loaded mechanism in there, you do not need to open or access that side of it therefore leave it alone.
Clean up the plastic gasket located under the body in situ, this is easily cleaned using a cloth.


After cleaning and drying, Refit throttle body, reconnect wiring connector, refit air box and fresh air duct.
Run VCDS and do an TBA as below:

Note: If you don't do a TBA, you will find that the accelerator pedal won't respond to your commands and have a mind of it's own. Also you may need to do the TBA more than once as sometimes it doesn't seem to work first time.
You may get other errors logged now and these will need to be deleted.

Turn the key on but do not start the car.

  • [Select]
  • [01 - Engine]
  • [Measuring Blocks - 08]
Enter Group 060
  • [Go!]
  • [Switch to basic settings]
Once you do this you will see the top right display say ADP RUN. The TB adaptation is being done as soon as you switch to basic settings. You will see the values change and hear the TB cycle for the first few seconds then it will stop. Leave it in Basic Settings for about 30 seconds.
  • [Switch to Meas. Blocks] button and you're all set.
Be sure not to touch the accelerator and make sure the engine is NOT running when you do this!

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How to remove Bonnet Grill

To remove grill open flap
Remove two screws as marked
On inside of bonnet you will see several clips (marked) just pull them away with your finger lightly all way along the inside top of the grill and it will all slip off!


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Post 26

Audi Open Sky Sunroof Systems - Service Training - Self Study Program 378

Attached is some information (2x pdf files) on several Audi Open Sky Sunroof Systems, including our A2's.


I think it is time we started looking at all options for DIY repairs to the OSS to get them working again!
Anyone have any info let me know and I'll start a separate thread to collect all information.



  • SSP_378.pdf
    1.1 MB · Views: 1,700
  • Reparatur Seilzug A2 open sky repair (1).pdf
    964.6 KB · Views: 939
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'How to' remove/refit the steering wheel

Have stereo security code to hand if needed
Make sure steering wheel is centralised with wheels straight
Put key in ignition and turn to ignition (where dash lights up) do not start, leave key in that position till end of process
Open boot, put something over boot latch in order to avoid locking it shut otherwise it won't open after you carry out next step
Disconnect battery at the 'Negative' (-) terminal and secure cable so it doesn't 'spring' back up to touch the battery connection itself
Leave hatch open

At the back of steering wheel there is two screws for the airbag at either side, loosen these screws, they stay in wheel and do not come out!

Gently lift airbag a little forward to reveal the airbag connector, squeeze sides and lift off, there may also be another connector, this is for the horn, disconnect it and remove airbag and place it securely.


Remove the centre bolt, under it on the 12 o'clock position there will be a mark on the steering wheel, if there isn't a mark directly below on the shaft then mark it there. This is to align the steering wheel back into correct position.


Gently lift steering wheel straight off in order not to twist the slip ring behind it, this is easily done if you don't watch out.
Replace with steering wheel your fitting (again all the time being careful not to turn the slip ring behind it) making sure the marks line up.
Refit bolt and tighten up!
Place airbag into position and reconnect connector/s
Screw airbag in via the two screws - (sometimes you need to gently push airbag whilst tightening screws for them to 'catch' the thread)
Go reconnect the cars battery
Your remote fobs may require re-pairing

Re-pairing remote fobs - put key into ignition, turn to ignition but don't start engine, turn back off and remove key and immediately press unlock on remote and your locks will unlock.

Hope it helps :)
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How to open the CCCU (Comfort Unit)

See pic's attached. you will need to get something thin and flat 'blade like' to slot in between the tabs marked in yellow arrows, do not try to put anything in the four 'X' marked tabs as these will open themselves as you separate the marked ones.

In one of the pictures I have put a red line through it and marked A & B, if you start on say A, do all the tabs then go and do the B, this way it will lift out easier.

This is a picture of the unit 8Z0 959 433 E.


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'How to' remove the rear bumper cover

Remove plastic trim cover along top of the bumper by gently lifting it off. This will reveal a set of 6 screws running along the top, remove them.

There are 2 screws that are hidden behind the wheel arch liners hooking the bumper to the side, to remove screws you will need to remove the liner, however removing some of the liner screws can give you access to these without removing the complete liner. The 2 screws go through the plastic arch support frame around the wheel arch. These a recessed and can be hard to see as no doubt some cars will have dust/dirt around there, use a torch and you'll see what I mean.
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Next remove the 7 screws running along the bottom of the bumper.


Now using a flat plastic device shaped like a flat screw driver, insert between bumper and body line, gently ease top of bumper away from body along the side between the light and wheel arch.


Pull bumper cover away.
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'How to' remove rear bumper cross member (or metal bar) and the support brackets

First remove rear bumper cover as in Post 29 above.

This will expose the cross member.

To remove the bar there is only 2 long bolts, one on each side going through the top, remove them both, Lift away antenna cable strapped to the bar, Pull bar away, (as you pull away the bar there will be a metal washer that will fall out from between the bar and the support bracket).

Once bar is removed you will be left with the two support brackets on either side. They have 3 bolts that fit them to the body, remove them, note, these brackets are heavy so be aware in case you get them landing on your fingers!
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Door trim Aluminium cover removal

First remove door interior trim as in my post 13

The following 'how too' process was done on front passenger door.

This reveals a aluminium plate on the door, this will need to be removed to gain access for door window frame/window mechanism, door lock, door handle.

Disconnect the motor and remove the three screws for the motor and lift off.

On this plate there are 15x torx T30 screws marked in yellow and 4x cross screws marked in red.

Remove these screws and then push the cable glove (interior door handle cable glove) through the hole.

Grip the blue motor mounts from the tab ends close to the plate, and lightly push them through.

Now peel back the plate, please note there will be a foam strip running horizontally that will tear away that also holds the plate to the inside of the door.

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Door window frame removal (with glass)

First remove Door trim as in my Post 13, then follow post 31.

Process shown on Passenger front door.

To remove the door window frame there are 4 bolts, two of the are hidden under the door seal.

Remove these bolts and remove the seal from around the frame then lift it out.

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Door lock mechanism removal (including the microswitch)

Carry out procedures in posts 13, 31, 32 first then

Remove the two marked screws that hold the mechanism, and lift out.

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'How to' Remove door handle and rear mount

Follow my posts 13, 31, 32 and 33

Remove cover cap on the door, turn screw till it starts to resist, it will not fully come out so stop at the point where is starts to resist, stop there and don't over do it, pull door handle out a bit (as if your opening the door)and pull lock barrel out (covered by a key lock blanking cover on other doors except drivers door)

Once this is removed, the door handle will come out by lightly pushing it towards the lock barrel that you just removed and pulling it gently out.

You will see a small screw, remove this and slide the whole mount behind the door and it will all come away.

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TDI Owners – Warning/Advice - Oil Pump Chain and Tensioner

Hi all, I thought that I must inform all TDi owners of a potential issue.
This year I have seen two TDI’s, one with 110k on clocks and other with 128k that have had a failure of the tensioner or the chain. This is not the tensioner that comes to your mind, but a chain tensioner that is located inside the bottom of the engine under the sump. This connects the sprockets for the balance shaft, oil pump and idler sprocket. There is also the possibility that the chain has stretched or the teeth on the sprockets have become worn or broken, but whatever the situation the end result is the same.

Failure of this tensioner causes the breaking of the chain, and usually the chain loops backup on itself and ‘locks’ engine down. The mechanics then think that the engine has ‘seized’, as you’re unable to turn the engine over anymore, (with starter or with a socket on the crankshaft bolt or any other way). However, this is not the case and it means that you will need to have the chain and tensioner changed (I would recommend full kit of the chain, tensioner and all sprockets). The trouble with carrying out this process after the failure of these parts is that when the engine won’t turn you can’t get access to two of the bolts for the removal of the sump, therefore have to pay more on labour to have driveshaft’s disconnected and gearbox (together with other things) disconnected and pushed back or removed to gain access to these bolts.

What I suggest is any TDi over 100k miles has this tensioner and chain changed at next service But I'd recommend to change all the parts including all the sprockets, thereby avoiding failure of these parts.

I suppose the lifetime of this tension/chain is down to the oil changes and quality of oils used, as well as how it's been driven along it's life. I am just advising and not scaremongering anyone, it's up to you all to take care of this as I see this problem happening more in the near future.

If you're 'lucky' so to speak, then you'll hear clattering noises which will signal the chain is loose and failure would be pending.

Also if you're due a cambelt change, I'd suggest to get it done at same time as it'll be cheaper that way.



EDIT: Parts as far as I can see:

Chain £50.11 inc Vat
Tensioner £47.14 inc Vat

Sprockets should you need:
Sprocket one £21.14
Sprocket two £18.80
Sprocket three £37.90

Total £175.09 for all parts above
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Removing cup holder and hazard switch


Removing cup holder and hazard switch
Remove centre vent as above post number 36
Press retainer tabs outwards and take cup holder out

Hazard warning switch removal
Unscrew bolt (5)
Detach holder
Take out hazard warning switch
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Some codes for sensors, switches, relays and and what they mean

E45 - CCS switch
E227 - Button for cruise control system
F - Brake light switch
F36 - Clutch pedal switch
F47 - Brake pedal switch
G6 - Fuel pump
G28 - Engine speed sender
G39 - Lambda probe upstream of catalytic converter
G40 - Hall sender
G42 - Intake air temperature sender
G61 - Knock sensor I
G62 - Coolant temperature sender
G71 - Intake manifold pressure sender
G79 - Accelerator pedal position sender
G130 - Lambda probe downstream of catalytic converter
G185 - Accelerator pedal position sender 2
G186 - Throttle valve drive (electric throttle operation)
G187 - Angle sender 1 for throttle valve drive (electric throttle operation)
G188 - Angle sender 2 for throttle valve drive (electric throttle operation)
G212 - EGR potentiometer
J17 - Fuel pump relay
J218 - Combi-processor in dash panel insert
J338 - Throttle valve control part
J537 - Control unit for 4LV
M9/10 - Bulb for left/right brake light
N30 … 33 Injectors, cylinders 1 … 4
N79 - Heating resistor (crankcase breather)
N80 - Solenoid valve for ACF system
N121 - Frequency valve for exhaust gas recirculation
N152 - Ignition transformer
P - Spark plug connector
Q - Spark plugs
Z19 - Heater for lambda probe
Z29 - Heater for lambda probe 1, downstream of catalytic converter

FSi Coolant sensor change

To remove this you will need to:

Remove bonnet drain cup and move out of way. The Dual (4 pin) sensor is located behind the EGR pipe, therefore you will need to remove the two bolts for the EGR pipe and gently pull it up to give you the clearance to get to the sensor. As the bottom bolt is hard to get too, I disconnected the big rubber hose adjacent to the sensor thereby draining the coolant (a good time to flush the cooling system out). Now, there is an important caveat here, any tool you use to undo the bottom bolt you will need to be really be careful to keep the bolt straight all the while it is being unscrewed till it comes out, (I'd suggest to use fingers as soon as it loose enough to allow this), the reason is otherwise that the bolt will strip the thread from the aluminium head and this is VERY easily done! (obviously same applies when putting this bolt back in and I suggest tightening it up as much as you can with your fingers before using any tools which should lessen the risk of cross threading/stripping of the thread. There is simply no room due to the connection to the big rubber hose next to the sensor which keep your tool at an angle on bottom bolt hence warning!
Once you gained access unclip wiring and pull out plastic 'C' clip holding the sensor in place, also note the O ring which can get left inside the pipe but easily retrieved with finger.

Replace sensor with new O ring, clip it into position, refit the EGR pipe, then, reconnect sensor plug otherwise you won't be able to get to the bottom bolt if the wiring connector is on!

Also if you note the Oil pressure sensor on the front of the engine has a small weak singe wire, as you'll be brushing pash this several times I'd suggest unplugging it and moving the wiring aside.
Tip* pack area underneath the sensor with say a cloth to collect any possible dropped bolts, O rings or tool bits otherwise you'll have a bigger job!

This sensor is Green is colour and the part number for this 4 pin sensor is 059 919 501A. Audi have decided to rip us off and sell it for £44!!, my local car spares shop sell one for £16 and good old eBay are £7, take your pick!

Another sensor is located in the bottom hose connection at the radiator, this is Grey in colour and the part number for this is O6A 919 501A, again watchout for the O ring. This is also £44 from Audi (thank you Audi), £12 from local car spares shop and £5 from old eBay.

4 pin sensor



Radiator bottom hose sensor
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FSI (engine code BAD)- Removing and installing map-controlled engine cooling thermostat -F265-

I had the issue of overheating and steam being forced out of the vent in the expansion tank (globe).
I decided to change the above also known as the electronic thermostat.


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To do this you have to be prepared to do a gear linkage alignment as well because you'll need to remove one cables from within the gear cable ends.

So, remove bonnet, Drain coolant, remove bonnet water cup (10mm bolt), remove the expansion tank (single 10mm bolt) noting the electrical connector behind it. Move the top hose aside.
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Remove the engine wiring harness support bracket by sliding it out to the right hand side.

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Gear linkages
Release cable end-piece for gear selector cable as follows:
Press locking mechanism on cable to front as far as goes, turn locking sleeve as far till it stops, pull selector cable out of end-piece. Please take your time doing this as there will be a chance of one or more of the three thin plastic legs breaking off if forced.

Back to the Thermostat, remove the electrical connector, detach hose, remove three bolts, lift out.

Note: Recommend fitting a new O ring.

Refit new unit, and follow reverse of above. To finish run a Gear linkage alignment procedure also known as Adjusting Selector Mechanism.

Warning: Do note detach the cable end pieces from the selector shaft lever or the gear selector relay lever, these pieces must always be renewed if they have been detached.

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