froggy
Member
Excellent thank you - these are the exact clips which I have not found anywhere else ??
TDi 75 AMF coolant leak from hoses tandem vacuum/fuel pump seals?
- Thread starter froggy
- Start date
froggy
Member
Today I’m trying to refit a new coolant sensor, I got the old one out of its electrical housing easy enough by pushing the little tab. The new one just doesn’t want to go in. I can get it in but the tab wont locate and it just slides straight back out again. Can anybody give me any tips?
So you've got the sensor in and fitted the horseshoe clip and it's the electric connector which won't lock.
Check the weather seal inside the connector and ensure it's clean and located in its recess, then lubricate it with a smear of silicon grease or WD40. It should then push on fully so the locking tab locates correctly
Cheers Spike
froggy
Member
Thanks Spike, I’ve used some contact cleaner on the electrical connector and pushed the tab down with a small screwdriver which then clipped over the tab on the sensor. It’s the damn horseshoe connector that just wont go fully home, is it just a case of force?
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Sorry I mis-read your earlier post.
Only thing to check is the old O-ring came out with the sensor and is not stuck in the recess.
It's worth tying a piece of thin string to the clip as the can 'ping' and disappear into the engine bay.
Also try waggling the sensor as you insert the clip which may help align the groove in the sensor with slot in the water manifold
Lubricate the O-ring with coolant
I realise you may have already done most of these things
Cheers Spike
Only thing to check is the old O-ring came out with the sensor and is not stuck in the recess.
It's worth tying a piece of thin string to the clip as the can 'ping' and disappear into the engine bay.
Also try waggling the sensor as you insert the clip which may help align the groove in the sensor with slot in the water manifold
Lubricate the O-ring with coolant
I realise you may have already done most of these things
Cheers Spike
froggy
Member
No need to apologize, I didn’t explain it very well. It’s my first time at this, so all tips gratefully received. I have a new coolant flange and picked up replacement O rings from Audi today, so I’m happy the sensor is now fitted ok . I think the tip on waggling the sensor as the clip is pushed in will help.
Where do you guys get your G12 from - is Audi direct the best option?
Catnip64
A2OC Donor
It looks like the clip is fully home, there's a photo on this thread to show how it fits:
https://www.a2oc.net/community/index.php?threads/radiator-replacement-and-flushing.38118/page-2
https://www.a2oc.net/community/index.php?threads/radiator-replacement-and-flushing.38118/page-2
froggy
Member
Thanks, I think you’re right, I don’t see how it can push on any further. Everything feels tight now. Just got to remember which threaded bolt goes where and put it all back together now!
froggy
Member
Sorry everyone - you will be glad to see the end of this thread! Im completely stuck trying to get the coolant flange back on. Im sure the smaller of the 2 threaded securing rods goes to the front, then a little bracket covers the nut which then hangs down and bolts to the lower bracket. The rod stops just short of the block so the flange cannot be fitted. Can anybody see where i am going wrong? ??
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froggy
Member
Ok managed to find an old picture which shows the little bracket OUTSIDE the coolant flange. So now a new problem - im sure there was a second nut behind the bracket - if I put this on how the heck do i tighten it with the bracket in the way and surely I need more thread to screw into the block?
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froggy
Member
Of course what was I thinking!? The nut is still behind the bracket but in front of the flange! Thank you for this advice, the light is failing and I’m rushing things, so time to stop. Anyway, success!!! Its on finally, a very easy job when you know how and what goes where. I will look up torque specs for these little 10mm nuts and finish off after work tomorrow. Thanks again ??
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Little Dog
A2OC Donor
https://www.a2oc.net/community/index.php?attachments/c7f3fcf9-9051-4516-b66a-c7904adc9d23-png.86583/
I said I'd report on these, I bought a similar set from eBay. The largest and smallest sizes appear very good. The medium sizes are a bit lacking in steel gauge but appear fit for purpose. Concentricity is acceptable and the zinc plating appears good. Wouldn't be my first choice but good to have in just in case you break some and can't wait several days to get the car back on the road.
froggy
Member
Thanks Phil, I managed to get some like for like fuel hose clips from Audi and I’ve just ordered a set of these too in case things go wrong. I can’t find much info about torque Nm for the threaded bolts on the coolant flange. Closest I could find was 8nm for the 1.9 tdi engine. My coolant just arrived so I can now lubricate the flange seal and the coolant sensor rubber and fingers crossed get the tandem pump on before it goes dark. I will torque to spec in the diamond pattern from the workshop manual @audifan was kind enough to provide, then if the clips fit, turn the key and ??. If all goes well the last job (for now) will be a coolant system flush over the weekend.
audifan
A2OC Donor
| Component | Nm | |
| Bolts/nuts | M6 | 9 |
M7 | 15 | |
M8 | 20 | |
M10 | 40 | |
M12 | 65 | |
| Except for the following: | ||
| Battery plus (+) cable to starter | 16 | |
| Earth wire to gearbox | 22 | |
| Bracket for wiring harness to coolant hose/pipe connection | 10 | |
| Drive shaft heat shield to cylinder block | 33 | |
| Air pipe to: | Turbocharger | 8 |
| Sump | 8 | |
| Body | 8 | |
| Engine cover panel to bracket | 5.5 |
froggy
Member
Your guide in #42 is excellent and I will try to follow it to the letter. I managed to torque the top rear bolt on the coolant flange to 8nm but the bottom bolt cannot be torqued, as the coolant flange itself and the metal support plate with the 2 prongs gets in the way. I will try to get a few more turns on the bottom nut with a ring spanner, to get it as close to 9nm as possible and nip the top bolt up to 9nm also. The lower small metal bracket circled in the picture, is a complete pain to get in position, but I finally figured out what goes where and will connect it up tomorrow along with the tandem.
I’m going to flush the radiator and coolant pipes through with a garden hose before attempting to start the engine, (can’t remember which pipe to put the garden hose in for that, but I just need to search the forums) fix the fuel hose, then fill the system with water and as you advised, leave the expansion cap off to burp the air out. Hoping for good weather to get all this done tomorrow. If she starts and doesn’t overheat, I may just be able to save her.
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audifan
A2OC Donor
You should be OK. When I flush I try to break the system down into parts, radiator, cabin heater, Webasto and engine block. You can be successful just removing the thermostat from the front of the block and flushing down that pipe and out the block where the thermostat was and also through the expansion tank. Once you have finished flushing try to get as much water out as possible before you slowly refill with fresh coolant. There are one (two if you have a Webasto ) bleed screws to help remove air but by now they will be fragile and probably blocked up anyway. I have not yet had a problem with the burp method, just let it get up to temperature with the cap off and the occasional blip on the throttle. Take for a run with the cap now fitted keeping an eye on the temp gauge and watching for odd smells or steam. Park up and let it cool down, visually check the level then slowly release the cap. Top up if needed. Check the level for the next 3 or 4 trips to make sure all OK.