Today I.....

[johnyfartbox]

Airlock? I changed the temp sender yesterday, pain to do mate.
Yet to do the thermostat.
When you refilled the coolant, did you crack the car up and let it run with the cap off the expa tank to allow air to bubble up?

 

[audifan]

@Silverpig did you get a good quality OEM thermostat correctly rated and a good OEM temp sensor? Has the thermostat been fitted the correct way round? Did you replace the o ring on the thermostat? I did a post on changing the thermostat on a tdi75 ( others are available )

Fastest way to replace water thermostat without removing alternator

After having problems tightening up the lower bolt after replacing the thermostat I looked around at other peoples suggestions as to how to do it and found this to be the fastest and easiest way to remove and refit the housing. Remove the spring clip that secures the hose to the thermostat...

www.a2oc.net

 

[Silverpig]

Don’t think it’s an airlock but I’m open to suggestions. I did start the engine and left the cap off for a few minutes before refilling, I’ll give it another go later. The lower bolt is the pain, you need an offset spanner or the tiniest socket set in existence. Or very tiny hands and a huge amount of patience. Or take off the drive belt and alternator!!

Airlock? I changed the temp sender yesterday, pain to do mate.
Yet to do the thermostat.
When you refilled the coolant, did you crack the car up and let it run with the cap off the expa tank to allow air to bubble up?

 

[Silverpig]

I used Euro Car Parts, it came with an O ring and I fitted it back into the same position it was when I removed the old one. Difficult to source OEM parts as I have my doubts about German & Swedish. Getting parts from Audi Portsmouth is not as straightforward as it used to be, feels completely ridiculous going in to their massive, expensive showroom to ask for a £10 thermostat!

@Silverpig did you get a good quality OEM thermostat correctly rated and a good OEM temp sensor? Has the thermostat been fitted the correct way round? Did you replace the o ring on the thermostat? I did a post on changing the thermostat on a tdi75 ( others are available )

Fastest way to replace water thermostat without removing alternator

After having problems tightening up the lower bolt after replacing the thermostat I looked around at other peoples suggestions as to how to do it and found this to be the fastest and easiest way to remove and refit the housing. Remove the spring clip that secures the hose to the thermostat...

www.a2oc.net

 

[Howdy Ay 2]

Had the windscreen replaced on my A2 as a result of too many stone chips.

New Bosch wiper blade fitted too.

 

[Rusty911]

I used Euro Car Parts, it came with an O ring and I fitted it back into the same position it was when I removed the old one. Difficult to source OEM parts as I have my doubts about German & Swedish. Getting parts from Audi Portsmouth is not as straightforward as it used to be, feels completely ridiculous going in to their massive, expensive showroom to ask for a £10 thermostat!

I've used Euro's for about ten years but experience has long held that using non-big brand stuff from them is pretty much a waste of time. E.g. a BMW maf sensor at 1/4 price of the original was literally just a resistor in a plastic housing 'oh yes, it's designed just to keep the EML off.' A BMW E46 unbranded thermosat that opened ridiculously early and was worse than the failed one it replaced (it was bad enough that I got them to pay for the labour and anti-freeze to fit a better one). Their Lion batteries are a liability: three might be fine and the last one useless. They sell on the back of a long gaurantee and just rely on statistics to make sure not too many come back (car sold on, car written off, customer blamed for not charging etc). I've just had a Lion AGM battery (which the seller had fitted) ) fail in a big way on my V70: it was six weeks old! Fitted a Varta and, hey presto, all problems solved.

Branded stuff? Yes, then they are excellent. Just make sure whatever you buy is the original equipment manufacturer. Otherwise it's just not worth the time and effort. The idea of fitting new parts is obviously to eliminate the problem, or if not, rule out a component. If there is a niggling doubt that the new part might not be up to scratch you've potentially lost out in every direction.

I feel for you: there's absolutely nothing worse than battling with a job only to find you're either no better off or worse, have gone backwards. Good luck with sorting ?

 

[Rusty911]

This is for yesterday as was too late by time I came in:

Replaced the broken spring on front nearside. Stripped out top mount, cleaned up bearing tracks and bearings. Now runs nicely. Amazed it steered before as bearing cocked over at such an angle by broken spring it was jammed solid. Might say something for A2 steering feel that there was absolutley no suggestion of issues at the steering wheel ?.

Discovered shock absorber, as suspected, is pretty much relying on residual friction as the damping medium. I don't think there's much left inside. I've thrown it back on for now as the car's untested with all sorts of other 'features' so priority is to get it safe(ish), operational(ish) and serviced.

If I decide I like the car (other than test drive and colection of Lasi, I've never driven an A2), it'll get Bilstein B4's plus bushes and drop links in due course.

On that note, did a hot oil change after gradually adding increasing quanity of oil flush up to about 50% of what instructions said. It always makes me a bit nervous, oil flushing, but given the nasty journeys the car has done with PO (short, slow), I felt there was more risk in not flushing. Even so, adding what appears to be thinners to your oil feels very wrong.

Discovered, much to my surprise, not only is there an undertray present, but all correct fittings are in place: I didn't expect that.

Anyway, dropped that and dropped the oil, changed the filter for a cheap pattern one, chucked in all my dregs of various 5w-40's and 10w-40's I needed to use up, added another oil flush at the front and a Cataclean at the back and got it steaming hot again. Dumped out that oil and filter. Oil very dirty so the flush combined with new oil's detergents obviously does something.

Fitted a genuine filter and filled with my favourite oil: Fuch Titan Race Pro S. A 5W-40 full ester synthetic. Knocks the spots of the usual marketing oils (e.g. Castrol), with notably quieter running and better economy. Had great success with this in my 996 and my chum swears by it in his 355. My little Smarts seem to like it with less chain noise etc. If any oil will help get some more miles out of this engine, it's this. £55 for 5L from Opie which gives idea of spec. Bottom line is this removes any doubts about lubrication quality, so if the engine's still not happy, well it's 'new' (different) engine time.

Discovered the air filter looks new so can put the one I bought somewhere safe.

As for today: well, I'll see how far I get but I'd like to have a look at the screechy starter as first job. Certainly need to replace the leaky fuel filter (genuine one standing by) and possibly flat and polish my key-scratch touch ups.

 

[Jeetesh]

Didn't have the under body attached and it caught under a raised curb in a parking bay. When reversing out of the bay it ripped off. I have already fixed it once with fiberglass etc. and then with zip ties and duct tape the second time. I see from other threds that it is not possible to buy just the bottom black part.

Not so good.

Buying a breaker might then be a good option, I’ve seen some at £100-£500 for a whole car. I like the idea that you’d have a whole car of bits to salvage when needed and would probably be more economical too. If you could find one in the same spec/colour that would probably be perfect subject to your mechanical ability to swap over parts and having space.

 

[Rusty911]

I didn't set out to worry about the squealing starter at this early stage of ownership, but the car was in the air following above oil change and spring replacement. It was always going to drive me completely bonkers. It's one thing driving a £500 banger, it's quite another to actively shout about it. As it's essentially free to DIY an improvement and I woke up ridiculously early this morning, I thought I'd deal with it.

As per all the other threads on here, I dropped the motor out (not very easy as it's a 1.4 petrol). I did drain coolant, I did disconnect gear cables and I did remove the gear quadrant / weight assembly. I suspect the starter motor is original as it was Audi branded. Anyway, if it is, it's done 158k miles with zero apparent wear. A strip, degrease, re-grease and reassembly was all it needed. Still took many hours: no problem in a comfy workshop with no hurry. Would be utterly, utterly miserable by the side of the road in the rain.

Things of note? The black fibreglass starter motor cover is a swine to remove (I removed from the top). The 5mm drill bit in the gearshift didn't set the gearchange as I wanted (I put the gearbox selector in neutral, perhaps it should have been in a gear). In the end I put the gearbox in neutral, allowed the gearlever to spring into it's natural place (half-way between third and forth), snapped the cable clips and all was well. Also, 18mm socket for the starter motor (not all socket sets have the 18). No lube on solenoid cylinder as it forms an air-seal. It's within a magnet anyway, so I assume is pretty much floating when activated.

I have to say, I'd much rather have a re-cleaned original with no apparent wear and obvious high build quality than a Chinese alternative. I honestly can't see those looking so good in eighteen years time.

Anyway ... it all works fine: car's been started several times and not a peep.

Ran the car back outside, jacked it up on all corners, wheels off and jet-washed all wheel-arches, the underside, under the engine and box, front inner wing area and backs of the wheels after suitable wheel cleaner treatment. Has got rid of that whole 'fresh from the farmer's field' vibe. In fact, it's testament to the build quality of these things just how well the whole car has come up so far.

Not done the fuel filter yet: might do that tonight, then it's on to the outer cosmetics and general fru-fru'ing.

 

[Silverpig]

Wow, engine out job, how long did that take?!

I didn't set out to worry about the squealing starter at this early stage of ownership, but the car was in the air following above oil change and spring replacement. It was always going to drive me completely bonkers. It's one thing driving a £500 banger, it's quite another to actively shout about it. As it's essentially free to DIY an improvement and I woke up ridiculously early this morning, I thought I'd deal with it.

As per all the other threads on here, I dropped the motor out (not very easy as it's a 1.4 petrol). I did drain coolant, I did disconnect gear cables and I did remove the gear quadrant / weight assembly. I suspect the starter motor is original as it was Audi branded. Anyway, if it is, it's done 158k miles with zero apparent wear. A strip, degrease, re-grease and reassembly was all it needed. Still took many hours: no problem in a comfy workshop with no hurry. Would be utterly, utterly miserable by the side of the road in the rain.

Things of note? The black fibreglass starter motor cover is a swine to remove (I removed from the top). The 5mm drill bit in the gearshift didn't set the gearchange as I wanted (I put the gearbox selector in neutral, perhaps it should have been in a gear). In the end I put the gearbox in neutral, allowed the gearlever to spring into it's natural place (half-way between third and forth), snapped the cable clips and all was well. Also, 18mm socket for the starter motor (not all socket sets have the 18). No lube on solenoid cylinder as it forms an air-seal. It's within a magnet anyway, so I assume is pretty much floating when activated.

I have to say, I'd much rather have a re-cleaned original with no apparent wear and obvious high build quality than a Chinese alternative. I honestly can't see those looking so good in eighteen years time.

Anyway ... it all works fine: car's been started several times and not a peep.

Ran the car back outside, jacked it up on all corners, wheels off and jet-washed all wheel-arches, the underside, under the engine and box, front inner wing area and backs of the wheels after suitable wheel cleaner treatment. Has got rid of that whole 'fresh from the farmer's field' vibe. In fact, it's testament to the build quality of these things just how well the whole car has come up so far.

Not done the fuel filter yet: might do that tonight, then it's on to the outer cosmetics and general fru-fru'ing.

 

[Rusty911]

Wow, engine out job, how long did that take?!

Ahh, I probably should have been clearer: starter motor, not 'the' motor. Although funnily enough, I think that could well be on the cards. Let's just say there's no mistaking my car for an EV

 

[Catnip64]

The 5mm drill bit in the gearshift didn't set the gearchange as I wanted (I put the gearbox selector in neutral, perhaps it should have been in a gear). In the end I put the gearbox in neutral, allowed the gearlever to spring into it's natural place (half-way between third and forth), snapped the cable clips and all was well.

The gearchange adjustment is detailed in this video:

 

[Rusty911]

The gearchange adjustment is detailed in this video:

Thank you!

Right, I seemed to have made an error in my assumption that the gearbox merely needs to be in neutral at the tower, rather than locked off. As I say, by putting both tower and gearlever in their respective neutrals I'm back to a nice change anyway.

I did Google DieselFreak on this, but watched the pin video rather than this which which is why I was half-cocked so to speak.

What an elegant system though

 

[Rusty911]

Fuel filter now fitted: no more stench of raw fuel.

Zymol polished and I've done my best with the wheels for now.

Glass, new carpet mats and those climate stickers, plus put the under-tray back are on tomorrow morning's list and then it's time to give it a try. I do have a trailer on standby ...

 

[Vorsprung durch Technik]

Fitted a genuine filter and filled with my favourite oil: Fuch Titan Race Pro S. A 5W-40 full ester synthetic. Knocks the spots of the usual marketing oils (e.g. Castrol), with notably quieter running and better economy.

Totally agree, i've been using it in 5w - 40 form for 5 years or so now and noticed exactly the same as you, smoother engine better mpgs etc and certainly better than the maketed oils! It's one of those best kept secrets that doesn't need any marketing.

 

[Vorsprung durch Technik]

Fuel filter now fitted: no more stench of raw fuel.

Zymol polished and I've done my best with the wheels for now.

Glass, new carpet mats and those climate stickers, plus put the under-tray back are on tomorrow morning's list and then it's time to give it a try. I do have a trailer on standby ...

What Zymol polish are you using?

I bought a bottle of it years ago to compare to my usual Auto Glym polishes and liked it especially the smell. Are you one of those who have it on your Gold Card? I know some of their stuff is very pricey.

 

[Rusty911]

What Zymol polish are you using?

I bought a bottle of it years ago to compare to my usual Auto Glym polishes and liked it especially the smell. Are you one of those who have it on your Gold Card? I know some of their stuff is very pricey.

I think it's a tub of Carbon (it's blue, I know that!). I should remember as I've not long bought a new one. About £55 but I get years and years from one tub on lots of cars. It's brilliant stuff and has a reasonable canuba content of around 35% I think. A lot of 'canuba' waxes are so low in content the description is downright misleading. Their better waxes are nearer 65%.

I believe they claim all of the ingredients are natural and if inclined, safe to eat. Why that's relevant to car paint I don't know. I'm pretty sure ICI / DuPont etc don't distil their paint products from antelope tears and lion pee, so not sure why they would benefit from edible polish. Edible or not though, it's blinking good and lasts for ages out in the weather.

 

[Rusty911]

Totally agree, i've been using it in 5w - 40 form for 5 years or so now and noticed exactly the same as you, smoother engine better mpgs etc and certainly better than the maketed oils! It's one of those best kept secrets that doesn't need any marketing.

A timely reply: just got in from a brief test drive and as a starter, the engine is definitely happier. It's still a little bit diesel'y, but pretty acceptable. It's miles quieter than it was which does suggest despite the ML229 / VW 502.xxx spec on the Halfords oil the PO was using, all oils aren't created equal.

Anyway: got the undertray on, sort of improved the wheels a bit, Dremel'ed the front slam panel to allow the bonnet release mechanism a modicum of sideways adjustment and got the maintenance hatch fitting snugly whilst opening without using the whole release handle's travel.

This evening took it for it's first test drive after this first batch of work.

Can certainly see the appeal, it's really endearing. I think the 1.4 gets down the road quite well. It'll only be me and the dog, so it'll never have to work hard. There's no doubt it feels its miles though, so if stays it'll need many shocks, bushes and links. There are some thoroughly downmarket dash (?) noises, more from the back and I think, some from underneath. Even so, I like it.

The big question going forward is whether I stick with this one with its big list of required improvememts, or look for a tighter and generally heathier one. Cut losses, or better the devil you know? Hmm. I'll run this for a week or two and then make a judgement. So far though, it looks well on the drive, is a fun drive and in many respects is a big improvement on the car that arrived. Glad I bought it anyway

 

[depronman]

Today I refurbished 18off check straps, a goods day work,
Started with a metre length of brass bar and converted that into rollers, a CNC lathe makes this soooooooo much easier, every roller within 0.0005" of each other on diameter and within 0.001" on length
Found that cutting with a very slow (drip drip drip) of coolant kept all the brass chips togther and didn't s**t up the lathe any where near as much as cutting dry.
Next off to the parts washer, which was making little impact until a heated up the cleaning fluid, an old kettle to heat up a couple of kettle fulls of fluid makes all the difference, a scrub with an old tooth brush and they come up like new.
Then stripped them all down, replaced the rollers and rivets with stainless steel bolts and nylocs nuts, lubricated everything and re assembled.

Anyone in need of check straps I have plenty of stock

Oh and for good measure I refurbished one hook style and one aero style wiper arm, they are drying in the garage now after 3 coats of 2K satin black, so I am back upto two stock of each wiper arm at the moment

I'm good to you good folks

Cheers,
Paul

 

[mcauleyj]

... hoovered, scrubbed and wet vac cleaned the soul black carpets from A2Steve in preparation for fitting. Still drying but the came up well. Just need the fasteners for the front mats....
BTW the dirty water is only from 1 mat, the drivers but they each had similar amounts of grime, I suppose about 16 or 17 years of build up!