Today I.....

Fitted the two front aero aids. Could not find the place to mount the centre portion.
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This morning I took our Touran 20 miles up the A30 to the VW dealer in Exeter with Chris, my brother-in-law following in Audrey the A2 which is on loan to him and his other half.

I got to drive on the way back and filled up the tank with Shell V-Power diesel (glad to report I discovered how to stow the fuel cap out of the way on the filler flap when doing so as described in this thread and also nailed the constant burp technique by holding the in-neck valve open with the nozzle as described by @Halduck here.).

Chatting with Chris as we cruised along at the national limit, he is still very much impressed with the car having covered a few tankfuls worth of mileage in it now. Special mentions this time around were the heated leather seats (kept on the “1” setting in his case the whole way back), Bose, how dependable it has been and how easy it is park. I also showed him how the cruise control works which is now another bonus for him as he finds the speed creeps up very easily (not surprising - Audrey is a very pokey remapped TDi90 as many of you know).

He also mentioned how he’s impressed with being able to get 400 miles out of a tank (at which point he fills up before the low fuel warning goes off as he hates being startled and panicked by the dreaded and rudely loud siren!!) - however I’m still fairly sure fuel economy could be slightly better: The DIS long-term average is just under 47mpg. I noted that at 70mph in sixth gear / 2000rpm and on the flat, the instant read-out said 50mpg, which is lower than the “130mpg minus speed” rule that standard A2s tend to conform to even with the standard 5 speed gearbox. The aircon was switched off - but then its -2 degrees outside anyway so not sure it matters. Turning the heated seats off didn’t really impact the instant mpg readout either. The car has had its second sets of genuine / OE thermostat and coolant sensors - the latter was checked after installation to ensure both circuits corresponded to actual coolant temp correctly. Tyres are 175/60/15 Goodyear winters inflated to the full load setting. I noted that on a slight slope when I released the handbrake the car started to roll instantly, as it should.

I realise that many of my recent posts and thread revivals have been to do with TDi90 / ATL fuel economy - sorry for bringing the subject up again! But can the low outside temp account fully for this discrepancy?
 
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It will impact fuel economy until engine gets to above 87 deg c
But one up to temp the colder air should have no affect
Paul


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This is about the normal mpg seen for the tdi90
The tdi75 is about 10mpg better on average


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It will impact fuel economy until engine gets to above 87 deg c
But one up to temp the colder air should have no affect
Paul


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Hmm that could account for the long-term DIS average as his journeys have been maximum 8-10 miles at a time on local roads and hence the car won’t warm up properly, however the instant read-out on the A30 was taken on the return journey of a good long run at 70mph in sixth gear at 2000rpm with the coolant and oil at operating temperature - so nice and hot.


I wonder what else I could check. When I get the car back I’ll try running it on the Millers additive over a few tanks to see if that helps things via a clean-up of the injectors.

Any other ideas? I get the TDi90 is supposed to be a little juicier than the 75, however I have seen some members with the 90 version in the past report almost as good consumption figures.
 
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Liqui Molly diesel purge would be my starting point. Best £15 you will ever spend in my mind

Paul


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Last Friday picked up the broken down ATL.
Gearbox was stuck in reverse and I took a gamble to buy it not knowing what's broken.

Screenshot_20210210_130816.jpg


After some inspection it revealed a broken/torn bowden cable.

IMG_20210206_171136.jpg


Unfortunely I cannot find a new cable, although I found there must be a "modified or uprated one.

Screenshot_20210207_095504_com.android.chrome.jpg


So I ordered a used shifter including cables which should arrive this week someday.

Thanx again @[email protected] for the fun and assistance during pick up! ?
 
Fitted the two front aero aids. Could not find the place to mount the centre portion. View attachment 76119

The centre aero piece has to be fitted by drilling three holes into the rear of the subframe as this part is designed to be put in the 3L model which uses a different subframe. These holes are a bit tricky to drill in as there's a lot of stuff in the way. I would recommend short drill bits in a right angle drill for getting these in nice and straight.

I have included a picture of where it is on my car but there's a picture on the German forum that probably makes it a lot clearer https://a2-freun.de/forum/forums/topic/13365-14-tdi-bluemotion-oder-wie-könnte-man-in-richtung-3l-basteln/page/20/

There's also a whole lot of infomation in this thread https://www.a2oc.net/community/index.php?threads/aero-parts-definitive-list.12842/

IMG_20210116_193240_compress12.jpg
 
The centre aero piece has to be fitted by drilling three holes into the rear of the subframe as this part is designed to be put in the 3L model which uses a different subframe. These holes are a bit tricky to drill in as there's a lot of stuff in the way. I would recommend short drill bits in a right angle drill for getting these in nice and straight.

I have included a picture of where it is on my car but there's a picture on the German forum that probably makes it a lot clearer https://a2-freun.de/forum/forums/topic/13365-14-tdi-bluemotion-oder-wie-könnte-man-in-richtung-3l-basteln/page/20/

There's also a whole lot of infomation in this thread https://www.a2oc.net/community/index.php?threads/aero-parts-definitive-list.12842/

View attachment 76129
Brilliant. Many thanks. I think I will forgo drilling the subframe.
 
........ Audrey is a very pokey remapped TDi90 as many of you know....

I realise that many of my recent posts and thread revivals have been to do with TDi90 / ATL fuel economy - sorry for bringing the subject up again!

I was thinking about this post on the way home and it made me think, is the remap not helping your economy? Diesel remaps usually focus on changes to boost pressure and fuelling, so it's possible the fuelling is now more generous than it was originally. I believe the VAG ECUs have 2 maps, which can be manually switched and a remap is usually only applied to one, leaving the other standard. I'm not sure how you'd prove this, but I'm sure others on here will know.
 
I was thinking about this post on the way home and it made me think, is the remap not helping your economy? Diesel remaps usually focus on changes to boost pressure and fuelling, so it's possible the fuelling is now more generous than it was originally. I believe the VAG ECUs have 2 maps, which can be manually switched and a remap is usually only applied to one, leaving the other standard. I'm not sure how you'd prove this, but I'm sure others on here will know.
Thanks @gills - My car was remapped by Vince at Stealth racing on a rolling road I believe, so is a good map tailored for the car.

My understanding is at a constant speed cruise at light throttle, it should if anything be more economical than standard.
 
I was thinking about this post on the way home and it made me think, is the remap not helping your economy? Diesel remaps usually focus on changes to boost pressure and fuelling, so it's possible the fuelling is now more generous than it was originally. I believe the VAG ECUs have 2 maps, which can be manually switched and a remap is usually only applied to one, leaving the other standard. I'm not sure how you'd prove this, but I'm sure others on here will know.
You are correct with the fact that edc15+ ECU holds two sets of maps. This is normally used for manual transmission and auto transmission and set at the factory
The tdi 75 & 90 only ever came with manual transmission and as such both sets of maps where identical in the ECU as it left the factory
Most remaps adjust BOTH sets of maps and indeed when I developed my remap I followed this trend, but then had a light bulb moment and I created a dual remap where by both sets of map files are different. I opted for a mild remap and a full remap but could have done a std map and a full remap
You use vcds to swap between the map files simple recoding the ecu from code blocks 00002 to 00005

I can only speak for my own remap, but driven the same pre and post remap I found around 3 to 4 extra mpg
This is visible on the DIS readings taken on the same piece of motorway on the same wind free day travelling over the same piece of flat tarmac travelling in the same direction on CC set at a given speedo indicated reading. The readings where taken using the std map and remap within 30 mins of each other
This is certainly not ‘lab like conditions’ but as scientific as I could muster and was also bourn out in real word condition by the fact that over a dozen or more tanks of diesel I was consistently seeing an extra 25 to 30 miles on the trip before the low fuel beep beep beep ( why is this so bloody load )
 
Experienced my A2 driver side rear door not latching this morning for the first time ever. It's been a recurring issue on my A6 C5 driver door in frosty weather - just have to warm up the latch area for a few minutes and it will eventually shut again. Took 15 minutes today. Set off for work, ride feeling noticeably harder than yesterday - it was after a couple of minutes I noticed the air temperature - see attached image (and yes, I've just noticed the date is wrong too!). This is 5 miles from Dundee, at sea level, not up in the Highlands. We had freezing fog that was lifting in clear sunny weather, and all around the trees were covered in ice crystals - but it explained why the ride was rock hard, the slush was frozen and the door latch jammed open. I didn't notice the cold while I was heating the latch - I think that the air must have been very dry as it can be utterly Baltic around here well above zero when the air is damp. Webasto running non-stop at the moment - what a brilliant piece of kit. Running since December on a set of ex-Polo steel rims with 185/65/15 Continental TS850s that I got off Facebook for 60 quid a year ago (7mm tread! - maybe the best 60 quid I've spent!) - with these and my winter remap (*) Cosmo has been unstoppable over the past few days - very easy to drive without using the brake pedal at all, no untoward wheelspin and a nice drive all round.
View attachment 76180
(*) just noticed @depronman's post above - I overwrote my winter map onto the standard map half of the dual map (standard / enhanced) that Paul set up for me 18 months ago. So I have a low tune, and the AMF high tune in about 30 seconds-worth of ODB-reader plugging-in, instructing the ECU to swap over to the other code set and unplugging again (+ignition off and on again) - I normally swap these over with the wheel change, although did run the low map for longer a year back to see if I could confirm an overall improvement in fuel efficiency (it does appear to do so by 3-4mpg but I had a handful of multi-month repair jobs last year so didn't run the car long-term through a range of conditions).

IMG_0752.JPG
 
Experienced my A2 driver side rear door not latching this morning for the first time ever. It's been a recurring issue on my A6 C5 driver door in frosty weather - just have to warm up the latch area for a few minutes and it will eventually shut again. Took 15 minutes today. Set off for work, ride feeling noticeably harder than yesterday - it was after a couple of minutes I noticed the air temperature - see attached image (and yes, I've just noticed the date is wrong too!). This is 5 miles from Dundee, at sea level, not up in the Highlands. We had freezing fog that was lifting in clear sunny weather, and all around the trees were covered in ice crystals - but it explained why the ride was rock hard, the slush was frozen and the door latch jammed open. I didn't notice the cold while I was heating the latch - I think that the air must have been very dry as it can be utterly Baltic around here well above zero when the air is damp. Webasto running non-stop at the moment - what a brilliant piece of kit. Running since December on a set of ex-Polo steel rims with 185/65/15 Continental TS850s that I got off Facebook for 60 quid a year ago (7mm tread! - maybe the best 60 quid I've spent!) - with these and my winter remap (*) Cosmo has been unstoppable over the past few days - very easy to drive without using the brake pedal at all, no untoward wheelspin and a nice drive all round.
View attachment 76180
(*) just noticed @depronman's post above - I overwrote my winter map onto the standard map half of the dual map (standard / enhanced) that Paul set up for me 18 months ago. So I have a low tune, and the AMF high tune in about 30 seconds-worth of ODB-reader plugging-in, instructing the ECU to swap over to the other code set and unplugging again (+ignition off and on again) - I normally swap these over with the wheel change, although did run the low map for longer a year back to see if I could confirm an overall improvement in fuel efficiency (it does appear to do so by 3-4mpg but I had a handful of multi-month repair jobs last year so didn't run the car long-term through a range of conditions).

View attachment 76181

Hell that’s cold. I had -3 the other day and thought that was bitter cold
Your and hardy bunch up north
Another vote for the webasto. Likely uses more fuel in this temps than the engine is using but at -14 who cares if you are in a nice warm cabin

Paul


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The electric heater is not bad but I for one would go for a webasto given a choice, especially given the engine benefits as well as the cabin temp
 
I've been using my first '02 TDI with Webasto throughout this cold snap - getting the pre-heater fixed during its first winter with me was one of the best things I've done to it. What a blessing it is to get assistance from inside the car while clearing off the frost and snow from the outside, and to get into a nicely warming cabin - heated seats don't exactly detract from the experience either. Then it's up to temp within a few miles even in -2 to -5°C that we've had down here all week, and the gearchange even gets to its full Summer smoothness eventually as the engine heat finds its way into the 'box. The only downside (if it can even be called that) is 52-53MPG on my 20-mile runs, where it would return up to 10MPG more in warm weather. A price worth paying in my view ?
 
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