Finding and preparing a new to me AMF

[Little Dog]

Great pictures especially the one with the black gasket at the head.
I am curious to know which head ports/holes are for fuel delivery to the injectors from the pump (and what are the other holes for?). Do you know?

Haven’t checked it out yet but need to for what I will be doing next. Referring to black gasket, top right big circular hole, vac pump +ve pressure to crank case. Small central hole, pump lubricating oil feed. Bottom left, two medium holes, diesel feed and return. I think?

My parcel arrived

 

[Little Dog]

Not touched the A2 today but noticed something interesting. Numbers in the inlet and exhaust ports:

Any idea what they may be for? ID numbers for casting cores?

 

[kp 115]

Not touched the A2 today but noticed something interesting. Numbers in the inlet and exhaust ports:

View attachment 118222

Any idea what they may be for? ID numbers for casting cores?

Maybe , but strange their consecutive as well

 

[Little Dog]

Tedious but necessary work. Fasteners. the manual recommends the majority are renewed but consistent with my advice to others 10.9 grade and less screws will be reused. That will be a considerable saving on the cost of this project as I have only had to buy stretch and more specialist 12.9 high stress fasteners. I have bought new:
Head stretch bolts
Cam, rckershaft and injector clamp stretch bolts
Flywheel retaining screws
Crank timing belt sprocket bolt
The remainder will be reused but not in the state they are currently in. Step 1 sort by colour, clear, black and yellow passivate:

 

[Little Dog]

Next step is to clean the fasteners and remove the plating:

Simmer in caustic soda:

Dirt removed true colour can be seen (only one item in yellow passivate) also it can be seen if an item is too far gone (two items went in the scrap bin):

Remove plating by immersing in diluted brick acid:

When the fizzing stops the plating has gone:

Some look slightly over cooked and have turned black (I put them to one side while I had lunch) zinc may not stick to the black items.

There is also a fair amount of flash rusting going on, that is OK the next step is rust conversion.

 

[greywolfhound]

Next step is to clean the fasteners and remove the plating:

Simmer in caustic soda:

View attachment 118326

Dirt removed true colour can be seen (only one item in yellow passivate) also it can be seen if an item is too far gone (two items went in the scrap bin):

View attachment 118327

Remove plating by immersing in diluted brick acid:

View attachment 118328

When the fizzing stops the plating has gone:

View attachment 118329

Some look slightly over cooked and have turned black (I put them to one side while I had lunch) zinc may not stick to the black items.

View attachment 118330

There is also a fair amount of flash rusting going on, that is OK the next step is rust conversion.

You’re doing a grand job all round Phil I’m impressed at the way you’ve gone about the whole process …keep it up,..

 

[Little Dog]

Been preparing my rust conversion tank. Get a good sized clean tank, that is a clean one:

Get a good sized sacrificial anode, they need to be bigger than the combined items being rust converted also if it needs to be wedged in it can't fall over and cause a short circuit:

Put in two scoops of cheap washing powder. the expensive stuff doesn't work for some reason:

Almost fill with water and that is ready to go tomorrow:

 

[Joga]

What is the process of rust removal you will use? I mean I see you plan to have an iron (?) anode but how will it work chemically?

 

[Little Dog]

What is the process of rust removal you will use? I mean I see you plan to have an iron (?) anode but how will it work chemically?

I’m not sure how it works but tomorrow I will put the fasteners opposite the sacrificial in the tank and switch on 12v. Ferrous oxide is converted to iron powder. It washes off, rust gone.
Edit amasing what you find out you don’t know when you are asked a question. I’m still not 100% on this. Rust is ferric oxide Fe2O3, I think it is converted a black powder called ferrous oxide FeO. The bubbles that are produced, that ping rust and paint off the good steel, are the missing O. Any Chemists following able to explain?
Edit2 Didn’t get a chance to move anything on yesterday. A rat has chewed its way into my lockup so I’ve putting bait and traps down. Did find this though https://antique-engines.com/electro...the rust turns,the metal object being cleaned.

 

[Little Dog]

I still haven't got anything into rust conversion. I've been rat hunting, I want to catch it before it starts eating the car.

While sorting components for rust conversion I noticed two that had not flash rusted:

This is one for the A2 boffins, where do they go on the engine? They are M8 * 46, 12 point, flanged, do not rust, are not magnetic and are marked A1. I think they are stainless but they are not the type of thing some owners buy of eBay to substitute mild steel bolts. I've had a look on 7Zap and turbo to exhaust manifold is a possibility. Why stainless?

 

[Howey]

I still haven't got anything into rust conversion. I've been rat hunting, I want to catch it before it starts eating the car.

While sorting components for rust conversion I noticed two that had not flash rusted:

View attachment 118438

This is one for the A2 boffins, where do they go on the engine? They are M8 * 46, 12 point, flanged, do not rust, are not magnetic and are marked A1. I think they are stainless but they are not the type of thing some owners buy of eBay to substitute mild steel bolts. I've had a look on 7Zap and turbo to exhaust manifold is a possibility. Why stainless?

Don't these secure the turbo to the manifold?

 

[Little Dog]

Don't these secure the turbo to the manifold?

I think perhaps they do but I’ve never come across stainless screws from the factory before.

 

[Howey]

Turbo securing bolts tend to be "special" on many different manufacturers as a general rule, not sure what most are made of but usually non ferrous

 

[Little Dog]

Time to get the rust conversion going, I've gone for black first because I have a major problem at the moment with flash rusting. Could be the recent rain and soggy ground increasing humidity? Several components will be painted, I can do that quicker than plating, also this is about the limit for one load:

I included this item with crusted rust to illustrate the effectiveness of this method:

They need hanging so they don't fall to the bottom of the tank and also so they are clear of the bottom of the tank. Components close to the bottom of the tank are quickly ruined.

Hang them in the tank, at this point I always check the polarity. Get it wrong and the components disintegrate and the brake disc comes out rust free:

Switch on, it will take 12 to 24 hours to remove the rust.

The process is complete when there is two tone brown and white foam on the surface.

 

[Little Dog]

The conversion process stubbornly refused to get started. The soap I put in had probably settled out since I set up the tank. Switch off, one more scoop of soap and stir. Switch on again and instant bubbles:

A final check before calling it a day and the two tone foam is almost there. The rust will be gone and the components ready to work on tomorrow:

 

[Little Dog]

This is how, what is now known as muddy water, looks this morning. The brown foam has thickened up and the white has thickened up with brown flecks on it brown. I'm confident the rust has gone.

I have read that it is not possible to over rust convert using this technique. However if you don't keep the scrifficial clean the tank will dissolve your components. I have some domestic chores to do then it is time to get filthy .

 

[Little Dog]

This is what comes out, the black stuff is ferrous oxide not rust:

It scrapes off with your fingers and in some cases just rinses off under the tap

Paint also scrapes off with your fingers

Before I go any further I need to manage your expectations. This process converts ferric oxide (rust) to ferrous oxide that can be washed off. It does not replace good steel that has been lost to rust. There will be pitting where the rust ate the steel. The components could be cleaned with wire wool but I use:

The soap keeps my hands clean which otherwise would end up black.

One component, previously with crusted rust, now rust free:

One component with slight rusting and a tough paint now rust free and majority of paint removed:

I think that's it for this week. Little Dog has thrown a sicky and is refusing to go to the shops. Bad A2 , I'll have to sort him out.

 

[birtyA2]

This is what comes out, the black stuff is ferrous oxide not rust:

View attachment 118535

It scrapes off with your fingers and in some cases just rinses off under the tap

View attachment 118537

Paint also scrapes off with your fingers

View attachment 118538

Before I go any further I need to manage your expectations. This process converts ferric oxide (rust) to ferrous oxide that can be washed off. It does not replace good steel that has been lost to rust. There will be pitting where the rust ate the steel. The components could be cleaned with wire wool but I use:

View attachment 118536

The soap keeps my hands clean which otherwise would end up black.

One component, previously with crusted rust, now rust free:

View attachment 118539

View attachment 118540

One component with slight rusting and a tough paint now rust free and majority of paint removed:

View attachment 118541

I think that's it for this week. Little Dog has thrown a sicky and is refusing to go to the shops. Bad A2 , I'll have to sort him out.

Hi Phil

Keen to give this a go, I had some success cleaning up some trim screws last summer. At the scale you are doing this what sort of current draw do you see on your charger. I have a rear axle to clean up and I remember in your excellent refurbishment guide you used this technique in part

Best wishes

Justin

 

[Little Dog]

Hi Phil

Keen to give this a go, I had some success cleaning up some trim screws last summer. At the scale you are doing this what sort of current draw do you see on your charger. I have a rear axle to clean up and I remember in your excellent refurbishment guide you used this technique in part

Best wishes

Justin

Hi Justin

The charger has never registered any current. The way I check for current is to look in the tank. Before the foam forms the fluid can be seen moving and bubbles form on the components.

I think I issued this warning, make sure your sacrificial or components cannot fall over or slip and make contact. Happend to me once and I set fire to the tank, the current was massive.

Phil

 

[birtyA2]

Hi Justin

The charger has never registered any current. The way I check for current is to look in the tank. Before the foam forms the fluid can be seen moving and bubbles form on the components.

I think I issued this warning, make sure your sacrificial or components cannot fall over or slip and make contact. Happend to me once and I set fire to the tank, the current was massive.

Phil

Thanks Phil