Rear doors not locking

I think it highly unlikely Audi would have done any special coding on the 4 trial units they brought to Australia before deciding not to officially launch the model into this market. Hence also my scepticism that they would have any spares for the model in the country.

I did have the microswitches in the door locks replaced when the problem first manifested, I actually got them from a supplier in Hong Kong selling them as spares for a VW Jetta, yet another model unfamiliar in this market.

Obviously didn't fix the problem. I'm still intrigued that I can get around the problem by manually locking the back door by fiddling with the mechanism, sort of admission by the manufacturer of a known problem.
 
I think I would invest some time checking all the electrics associated with the rear doors, looking for a bad connection, corroded pins or bad earth. What happens when you press the lock switch on the drivers door? If that works you could open the drivers door on the key and press the internal button to lock / unlock the other 3 doors and use the key in the drivers door to just lock that.
 
Gazzah, do you know where the CCCU lives? Are you able to tell me its precise part number? It'll be 8Z0 959 433 followed by a letter or two. I also suspect you'll have a UK-spec CCCU of one form or another.

Cheers,

Tom
 
Gazzah, do you know where the CCCU lives? Are you able to tell me its precise part number? It'll be 8Z0 959 433 followed by a letter or two. I also suspect you'll have a UK-spec CCCU of one form or another.

Cheers,

Tom
Hi Tom, sorry, it's only taken a couple of years to get around to it. The CCCU number is 8ZO 959 433 S. Both rear door locks open when I unlock the car, but neither will lock when I try to lock it. I've just gotten used to fiddling the key in the little hole and locking them manually
 
Worth checking the wiring plugs as they pass through the B pillar and it the rear doors. Check for corrosion, damaged wires and damaged pins. Does the internal switch on the drivers door lock and unlock all doors?
 
Worth checking the wiring plugs as they pass through the B pillar and it the rear doors. Check for corrosion, damaged wires and damaged pins. Does the internal switch on the drivers door lock and unlock all doors?
I'll have to try various combinations tomorrow - all I can say for sure is that the drivers' door switch doesn't seem to open the front passenger door - I know this for sure as I often pick our son up from work and when I'm waiting in the carpark and he tries to open the front door, it's locked and the switch doesn't unlock it - you can hear the lock cycle but it stays locked, I have to reach across and operate the inside door handle twice to unlock from the inside
 
It is vitally important that you answer Tom @timmus question as quickly as possible so he could look into the POSSIBLILTY of him either trying to flash an S version firmware or working out how to modify an alternative firmware that can be flashed onto a replacement CCCU. Does your Australian car have the immobiliser feature fitted or not? If the car is unlocked then all the doors should open from the inside handle or the outside handle. Do you have anti hijack enabled, where the car automatically locks the doors at about 10mph?
So no remote locking and manual rear windows? Can you give the whole spec just incase something else is relevant to the firmware?
 
It is vitally important that you answer Tom @timmus question as quickly as possible so he could look into the POSSIBLILTY of him either trying to flash an S version firmware or working out how to modify an alternative firmware that can be flashed onto a replacement CCCU. Does your Australian car have the immobiliser feature fitted or not? If the car is unlocked then all the doors should open from the inside handle or the outside handle. Do you have anti hijack enabled, where the car automatically locks the doors at about 10mph?
So no remote locking and manual rear windows? Can you give the whole spec just incase something else is relevant to the firmware?
That's correct, there's no remote locking, and there are manual rear windows. There is an immobiliser - you can see the little red light on the drivers door when it locks. I often have trouble with the petrol flap release and the tailgate release, frequently (though not always, it is quite intermittent) having to operate them manually. The locks frequently cycle when driving along - it sounds like they try to latch but don't - perhaps that is the anti-hijack feature? The rear doors unlock when unlocking the front door, but fail to lock when locking the front door
 
Hi folks,

I'm more than happy to help. I suspect I can solve a few of these problems by post. However, my schedule currently looks like this...

I'm based in Leighton Buzzard, a few hundred miles from home, until Friday 9th July, with 2 or 3 A2s arriving on the driveway every day. As such, I won't be able to shift my attention until I'm back home. Many thanks for your patience.

Cheers,
Tom
 
Hi folks,

I'm more than happy to help. I suspect I can solve a few of these problems by post. However, my schedule currently looks like this...

I'm based in Leighton Buzzard, a few hundred miles from home, until Friday 9th July, with 2 or 3 A2s arriving on the driveway every day. As such, I won't be able to shift my attention until I'm back home. Many thanks for your patience.

Cheers,
Tom
Hi Tom, no worries, there are those who say the state initials for Western Australia stand for "wait awhile", when you're at the farthest end of a loooong logistics chain, you learn to bide your time until help is available. My little car isn't my daily commute, so usually just sits quietly in the carport. Let me know when you're ready & we'll continue.
 
Do you have any specialist independent garages near to you that could run a VCDS scan on your car? Failing VCDS if they have professional equipment then that scan may diagnose the CCCU as faulty or other components. Rare and odd but still able to be diagnosed with suitable equipment.
 
Do you have any specialist independent garages near to you that could run a VCDS scan on your car? Failing VCDS if they have professional equipment then that scan may diagnose the CCCU as faulty or other components. Rare and odd but still able to be diagnosed with suitable equipment.
I actually bought a cable & software a couple of years back, but have never gotten around to using it to see if I can get some diagnostics, every time I start mucking around with the Audi, the "trouble & strife" finds better things for me to do. If I do get the chance, what would I be looking for?
 
Run a full scan. This will check through the systems that record faults. Anything found will hopefully narrow down the fault. Post the scan results here.
 
At the rear of the panel under the steering wheel towards the right end. There is a recess with a purple socket in it this is the OBDII socket. It is shaped so the cable only fits one way round. Kneel down outside the car and look above the pedals and use a torch you will find quickly.
 
Here's a picture showing my Ross-Tech cable cplugged in:

Ross Tech lead, plugged in.jpg
 
Thanks for that, I managed to plug in for a short time this morning before she came looking for me. I could see it trying and retrying a number of registers but didn't seem to read anything on the scan, does the ignition need to be on or something?
 
Afternoon,

You do need to the ignition to be switched on for VCDS to communicate.

Kind regards,

Tom
 
Finally got to do a scan, hopefully I asked for the right things, attached is the log it generated, hope it makes more sense to someone that knows what they're looking for
 

Attachments

  • Log-1DUJ025-WAUZZZ8ZZ2N001840-106080km-65915mi.txt
    3.3 KB · Views: 113
Can you clear the faults listed then rescan the car. That will clear out any old codes and leave just the current ones.
 
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