Rear doors not locking

^ +1 For clearing faults, but I think that CCCU is faulty, VCDS doesn't even show the part no.
There are a few ok priced on ebay if needed.

 
^ +1 For clearing faults, but I think that CCCU is faulty, VCDS doesn't even show the part no.
There are a few ok priced on ebay if needed.

Agree - I know nothing but even I know this sounds pretty terminal:

Address 46: Central Conv. Labels:
VCID: 55A7F793ACCE60896D9-4A3A
Note: Excessive Comm Errors
 
I did some more playing around and managed to get more detailed info from Address 46 - see the screen shot of the top page and the log it produced. I cleared the faults and ran the tests, it came back with the same list plus one, I expect from the crash simulation. If these codes indicate a replacement CCCU, are the CCCUs interchangeable or do they need to be programmed for the specific features of the vehicle? I can see a few for sale on e-bay, with the suffix AF, mine ends in S
 

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A few issues with replacing the CCCU.
Any replacement will need to be coded to the car for at least the immobiliser / remote keys
Doubtful a direct replacement could be sourced.
A single digit CCCU "S" in your case could only be swapped with another single digit CCCU as the double digit ones use a different key frequency, so if you replace it with a double digit say an "AF" then you will also need new remote parts of the keys. All said it is far more likely that a double digit CCCU can be obtained with hopefully the remote part of the key. The top half remains the original regardless and this contains the key blade and the immobiliser chip for your car.
 
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Have you thoroughly checked all the battery connections in the boot, the negative lead, the positive lead and the black box that is bolted onto the positive clamp ( including the connections inside the box)? Also the battery negative lead to the chassis behind the left rear wheel, and the earth lead under the left headlight to the starter / engine block?
 
Great, cccu is alive :)
Before opting for cccu replacement, check door locks for cold solder joints.
I've had same "won't safe" errors for the rear door and couldn't unlock front passenger door with inner unlock button.
Attached photo is one of my car's rear door lock pcb, showing that all of the pin connections were bad.
 

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I did check the wiring where it comes through the B pillar to the rear doors, it is all in a little rubber boot and appears to be intact. I've had the battery out a few times to recharge and battery connections are very firm. I think Audi cheaped out and didn't fit remote central locking to this car, as far as I know the central locking is only key operated, I only got one key with it when I got the car secondhand and that wasn't a remote key. I got a couple of spare keys from a specialist place in the UK that work with the immobiliser.
 
No take the rubber boot off, then split the plug to check the pins and the wires in the area. If you ever have the rear bumper off that is where the aerial is for the remote locking. It is the cable below the right light and boot vent and it disappears behind the crash bar.

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@Kleynie picture. Thanks

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I think I've asked this question before, do all A2s have remote central locking? I bought mine second hand via an agent and was only supplied one bladed key, no remote, so have assumed all along that I have to open/lock with the key in the door.

Answering an earlier question, operating the lock switch on the drivers door has erratic results. It doesn't unlock the front passenger door, from inside you have to pull on the passenger door handle twice to open it.

Operating the key in the drivers door won't unlock the front passenger door if locked, but will lock it if unlocked.

Operating the key in the front passenger door locks and unlocks both front doors and unlocks both rear doors if they're locked, but won't lock them if unlocked.
The rear passenger door sometimes locks and sometimes doesn't, but always unlocks - in the same way as when I operate the key in the drivers door.
The rear drivers' side door opens when either switch or key are operated, but won't lock for either. when you operate either switch or key, the lock clunks like it has operated but fails to actually do anything.

Off topic, but does anyone know if Paul, the guy who does 3D printed parts, is still around, I need one of his bits for the glovebox light
 
I think I've asked this question before, do all A2s have remote central locking?

No they don't. A2s sold from new in the UK all came with it, but A2s sold in the RoI didn't, and the same split applied more generally across Europe.

If you still have the original options sticker in your boot it will tell you what you have, otherwise a friendly Audi dealer can probably help.

See this thread:
 
I can confirm for outside the UK, my car came from factory without remote.

Gazzah, did you check for cold solder joints inside door locks?
 
I thought the Australian cars being RHD cars were UK spec and even Audi UK handled their import to Australia.
 
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