Set DRLs with VAG-COM?

iainmd

Member
Thanks for your speedy response Bret. There's a guy on the VW forums saying the diodes would only be required if you planned to install new lights on a new circuit. He says a straight wire bridge would be OK with the existing lights as the TFL circuit is switched to the parking light or dipped beam circuit by circuitry in the switch unit itself.

Would you agree with that or do you think that's wrong?
 

bretti_kivi

Member
TFL is TagFahrLicht - Daytime Running Light and it's a connection on the back of the light switch.

Thanks for your speedy response Bret. There's a guy on the VW forums saying the diodes would only be required if you planned to install new lights on a new circuit. He says a straight wire bridge would be OK with the existing lights as the TFL circuit is switched to the parking light or dipped beam circuit by circuitry in the switch unit itself.

? The diodes are needed if you want rear lights on and / or the internal christmas tree and / or sidelights IF you want to retain parking light capability.

If you like changing headlamp bulbs, then use the headlamps. If you don't, fit TFLs. Personally, I find a set of Nightbreakers each year to be too much. My TFLs are still going strong and they're 6 years old. The 307 used to eat one set of H7s per year.

The TFL pin supplies +12V when the engine is running and stops supplying it when the lights are turned on. I do not believe that bridging TFL and the dipped beams will bring on the rear lights; I know that bridging with the sidelights will NOT bring on the numberplate light.

Bret
 

akerlie

Member
I have now bridged 56-TFL-58L and R.

This is also what the dealer did to get DRL´s on my VW T5 (took it to the dealer 4 years ago and had forgotten about it, could have checked there in the first place :) )

I dont see the need for number plate and interior lights as i just can turn the switch to get these on when driving by night.
 

bob13

Member
So as a coclusion all A2's have that TFL conection at the back of the switch?
If i buy aftermarket DRL and i plug them there will work corectly?(on with the engine ,off as i turn sidelights)

Cheers!
 

mtl

A2OC Donor
I have now bridged 56-TFL-58L and R.
.

Just checking if I understood correctly. I would like to have low beams and rear lights turned on automaticaly when the car is turned on (preferably no interior lights and reg. plate light). So, I just dismount the light switch (is there a short DIY description, so I would not break something) and bridge with a wire 56 to TFL and 58L, 58R to TFL and should get the desired lights automatically go on with car turned on?
The lights go off, when you get the key out?
 

mtl

A2OC Donor
Finally I managed to get some time to bridge the pins and get DRL. But I was quite surprised that on TFL pin there is no cable in.


Does anyone know what type of connector for the wire should I buy to get fit it to the the connector for the light switch? Or how did you solve this?
 

mtl

A2OC Donor
Finally I managed to spare some time to get DRL working and have a problem.
While end side lights work like a charm (58L and 58R) connected to the TFL pin, front dipped beam does not work. I have connected 56 to TFL and it does not work. I have checked and the connection exists (when I turn the keys on, there is positive on the 56 pin), but the lights do not turn on. If I manually switch them on, then they work.

What should I do? There is also 56+ PIN.. Should I connect this? Though, since it is positive, this probably is not a good idea.

Also a picture of connector and all the PIN-s that I played with:
 
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bob13

Member
Just bought some Drl Lamps and i want to fit them to the TFL pin, my question is where is the best place to get the cable from the engine bay throu the panel and inside the cabin to get it conected to the lights switch?
Thanks!
 

DJ 190

Member
Right ... firstly there is no terminal on the connecting plug and which corresponds to the "TFL" (German for daytime running lights) pin on the light switch. You will have to insert a terminal! I suggest that you obtain a wired plug from a breakers and extract a terminal/wire. Next, the only sensible route to get that wire into the engine compartment is to feed it under the dash and across to the passenger foot-well Remove the fuse cover/housing on the drivers side to do this, and all the carpeting on the passenger foot-well Fairly high up and corresponding to the upper level of the rubber sound deadening, you will see a rubber gromet with a cable passing through it. This is a path which will take your wire through to to wheel arch. You will need to access this area by removing the wheel and under-arch cowling. After the wire is fed into this area you will see an obvious route into the engine bay! Protect the wire, full length, with fabric insulating tape (Ala Audi!) This is some PIG of a job, but it is the only way if you want to do the work correctly!
 

bob13

Member
Right ... firstly there is no terminal on the connecting plug and which corresponds to the "TFL" (German for daytime running lights) pin on the light switch. You will have to insert a terminal! I suggest that you obtain a wired plug from a breakers and extract a terminal/wire. Next, the only sensible route to get that wire into the engine compartment is to feed it under the dash and across to the passenger foot-well Remove the fuse cover/housing on the drivers side to do this, and all the carpeting on the passenger foot-well Fairly high up and corresponding to the upper level of the rubber sound deadening, you will see a rubber gromet with a cable passing through it. This is a path which will take your wire through to to wheel arch. You will need to access this area by removing the wheel and under-arch cowling. After the wire is fed into this area you will see an obvious route into the engine bay! Protect the wire, full length, with fabric insulating tape (Ala Audi!) This is some PIG of a job, but it is the only way if you want to do the work correctly!

Ok, cheers for that!

The only thing is that my car is a left hand drive, would it be anything different?
 
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DJ 190

Member
No, everything is just as I have described ..... no difference in routing or method! Using the correct "DFL" pin nmeans that operation is correct and legal .... i.e., the DRL's go off when normal lighting is switched on! You have a lot of work ahead, but just be patient! What are your DRL's and where are you going to locate them? The very best position is INSIDE the headlights ... however, since ~ 2001, the headlights are sealed (although I recon that I might be able to devise a way to split them and reseal!) Earlier headlights were splitable and held together with steel c-clips ...
 

Gonzo

Member
the requirements for DRL spec the height and distance apart. Many use the foglight positions.

- Bret

If I were to go down the DRL route (not for me, not legally required for older cars and I'm technically incompetent!) I'd pop some of these LED bulbs into my foglights and see what they look like. And then wire the foglight to the TFL fandango on the switch (or however its done). Hardly ever use foglights nowadays and they're pretty irrelevant with modern headlights.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/120-SMD-Headlight-Degree-Consumption-Vehicle/dp/B0089TMOGM/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1339844844&sr=8-9

Might be a bit bright but just a thought.:cool:
 
I have done DRL's on mine.

All I did was wire the existing fog lights to the switched plus from the ignition, so they come on when the ignition is on etc etc, removed the fogs and put Ring Arora 5x1watt LED lights into the lower grill.

Then what I did, using a relay connected to the original fog terminals on the light switch and also the headlight feed I wired it up so they go off when the headlights are on and then also when the fog switch is pulled they can come on as fog lights

John
 
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