robskiA2tdi
Member
yeah that's the one I've used for T5 beforeAudi Erwin.
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erwin.audi.com
Mac.
yeah that's the one I've used for T5 beforeAudi Erwin.
Buy an hour, under a tenner. You get the correct info by VIN.erWin - Login
erwin.audi.com
Mac.
Great pictures especially the one with the black gasket at the head.Good news, there is always a risk with coiling, the M6 threads coiled well. The M8 threads didn't require a coil, when I ran a tap down to check the thread pitch it didn't cut any aluminium. I concluded any damage was in the top thread or two and the remainder are good. I put a chamfer back in there, job done. Just a historic ding to check out; will it interfere with sealing the tandem pump?
View attachment 118205
No. it is well clear of the sealing ridges on the crush washer. Just need to flatten it with a Swiss file.
View attachment 118206
Interestingly it would have caused the last owner problems, the ding was where the tooth pick is:
View attachment 118207
However he wouldn't have noticed; both seals are shot, the pump would have been leaking diesel and oil.
Still no delivery
Haven’t checked it out yet but need to for what I will be doing next. Referring to black gasket, top right big circular hole, vac pump +ve pressure to crank case. Small central hole, pump lubricating oil feed. Bottom left, two medium holes, diesel feed and return. I think?Great pictures especially the one with the black gasket at the head.
I am curious to know which head ports/holes are for fuel delivery to the injectors from the pump (and what are the other holes for?). Do you know?
Maybe , but strange their consecutive as wellNot touched the A2 today but noticed something interesting. Numbers in the inlet and exhaust ports:
View attachment 118222
Any idea what they may be for? ID numbers for casting cores?
You’re doing a grand job all round Phil I’m impressed at the way you’ve gone about the whole process …keep it up,..Next step is to clean the fasteners and remove the plating:
Simmer in caustic soda:
View attachment 118326
Dirt removed true colour can be seen (only one item in yellow passivate) also it can be seen if an item is too far gone (two items went in the scrap bin):
View attachment 118327
Remove plating by immersing in diluted brick acid:
View attachment 118328
When the fizzing stops the plating has gone:
View attachment 118329
Some look slightly over cooked and have turned black (I put them to one side while I had lunch) zinc may not stick to the black items.
View attachment 118330
There is also a fair amount of flash rusting going on, that is OK the next step is rust conversion.
I’m not sure how it works but tomorrow I will put the fasteners opposite the sacrificial in the tank and switch on 12v. Ferrous oxide is converted to iron powder. It washes off, rust gone.What is the process of rust removal you will use? I mean I see you plan to have an iron (?) anode but how will it work chemically?
Don't these secure the turbo to the manifold?I still haven't got anything into rust conversion. I've been rat hunting, I want to catch it before it starts eating the car.
While sorting components for rust conversion I noticed two that had not flash rusted:
View attachment 118438
This is one for the A2 boffins, where do they go on the engine? They are M8 * 46, 12 point, flanged, do not rust, are not magnetic and are marked A1. I think they are stainless but they are not the type of thing some owners buy of eBay to substitute mild steel bolts. I've had a look on 7Zap and turbo to exhaust manifold is a possibility. Why stainless?
I think perhaps they do but I’ve never come across stainless screws from the factory before.Don't these secure the turbo to the manifold?