dj_efk
A2OC Donor
Amazing!
Today I.....
- Thread starter sco
- Start date
Leopard680
A2OC Donor
Good morning,
I would really appreciate that! The price I mentioned was an estimate that could go up! I was thinking about starting a thread to ask for recommendations! Thank you very much for saving me a packet! ? ? ? ? ? ?
cheechy
A2OC Donor
So car just passed its mot. Minor defects are all on boots...cv nearside and both track rod ends. All were replaced within the last 12 months and the car has only done 6000 miles since its last MOT. Power steering pipe corrosion came up as something to watch, as did the nearside indicator being reported as slightly discoloured despite it being less than 3 years old.
Am I being told something? Is it time to give up??
Am I being told something? Is it time to give up??
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Erlingtheelder
A2OC Donor
Today I added another A2 to the stable. That now makes 3 and remarkably my wife hasn’t filed for divorce!
Many thanks to @Steve CV8 for being a great host and most importantly, for having looked after this car really well for the 120,000 plus miles his family has done in it.
Many thanks to @Steve CV8 for being a great host and most importantly, for having looked after this car really well for the 120,000 plus miles his family has done in it.
oneflewover
Member
Just goes to show that pattern parts are crap. I changed mine 14months ago. Will have to check them.
So today I drove out of the driveway to the sound of sloshing water in the passenger footwell, not a lot and I assumed the door had not been shut properly.. Drove further along the road and heard more water and looked down to see it pouring out of glove box... Got back home took bonnet off and got soaked!! Turns out the intake on the bonnet was full of water which I traced to the rubber grommets that should let it drain being fully clogged up. Check your rubber grommets under the bonnet (2 of them in middle of engine sound proofing)
Alan_uk
A2OC Donor
Good call. When I give the car it's annual deep clean I take the bonnet off to clean underneath (bit of OCD) and usually find those grommets full of crud. Isn't there a 3rd drain from the scuttle (right word?) that should be checked as well - see photo:
I need to check mind as I forgot to check this year and in the past it has been full of crud. I don't think this will cause flooding inside the car but might cause flooding in the engine compartment.
Yes that one was also clogged up forgot to mention that one. We also noticed yesterday that the air vents in the car were only blowing hot, I think it must have been related as after I unclogged the drain holes and poured the content of the very full bonnet over myself the car is back to blowing air as normal today. When it's not raining I'm going to have to check the pollen filter as I suspect the water came through that on its way to the foot well!
Hi Alan,
Yes scuttle is the right word. No big deal but your scuttle drain seems to take an unorthodox route necessitating a cable tie. Mind you lots of google images have the drain in a variety of routes and as long as it works can't see it mattering.
Andy
Phil FSI
Member
Thanks for this tip. Got home from work and checked mine.
One was quite mangled up as if it’s not fitted into its drain grid right, that one was very dirty, other one, nice and flat lips was clean!
Phil
Yep I noticed the plastic that the rubber connected onto had plastic locking nodules in different positions so that makes sense why now given the diagram
gills
A2OC Donor
Thanks for the advice on this, I checked mine and found this mess in one of them:
Fortunately, I didn't yet have a lake!
cheechy
A2OC Donor
Interesting point as always on drainage with the design of the A2. I went into my engine bay yesterday and after very heavy rain i had a pool of water sitting on the gearbox....and I've proven that the drain cup is lined up well and is doing its job (up to a point I guess).
I've seen someone post up a picture of a permanent solution in the form of a funnel placed underneath the scuttle / on to of the gearbox by someone on the forums (sorry cant recall the name).
I've seen someone post up a picture of a permanent solution in the form of a funnel placed underneath the scuttle / on to of the gearbox by someone on the forums (sorry cant recall the name).
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audifan
A2OC Donor
An area that does also cause problems in heavy rain is the sealing rubber channel around the engine bay. At the top if it is not a tight fit to the bonnet rain water will pour over the top of it then onto the engine cover and gearbox. At the sides where the wings are bolted on there is usually a gap, this again in heavy rain can let water into the engine bay.
My pet hate in all the drain issues is all three drains, the scuttle and the 2 from the collector pots from the bonnet are all just dumped onto the under body tray. When you have a diesel ( or diesel tray ) the additional sound deadening foam cubes end up being soaking wet and when you drive off leave a trail of water and any other fluid that has dropped onto the tray on the road.
My pet hate in all the drain issues is all three drains, the scuttle and the 2 from the collector pots from the bonnet are all just dumped onto the under body tray. When you have a diesel ( or diesel tray ) the additional sound deadening foam cubes end up being soaking wet and when you drive off leave a trail of water and any other fluid that has dropped onto the tray on the road.
gills
A2OC Donor
Today I.....suffered a starting failure. I turned the key to start the car and just got a tick, tick, tick. My other half had been the last one to drive the car, as I'd taken the Leaf for its MoT on Friday, so I suspected something had been left on and drained the battery. Found my jump leads in the van, manouvered the Leaf into positioned, hooked them up and tried again. Tick, tick, tick. Well, that ruled out the battery.
By this stage, I was remembering posts I read on here about the starter motor earth cable. I tried connecting a jump lead from the engine to the engine mount, but still no luck. After a quick Google of the forum on my phone, I whipped the N/S headlight out to get to the earth cable mount. The bolt was solid and I managed to snap it trying to undo it, but it did give me access to the end of the earth cable. Putting my jump lead on here and the engine mount, I was suddenly in business when I turned the key. I cable tied the jump lead into place, put everything back, washed my hands and was off to work, only 35 mins late!
Reminder to self - preventitive maintenance is called that for a reason!
Love this forum - I'd have been stuck without the accumulated knowledge on here. Thank you ?
By this stage, I was remembering posts I read on here about the starter motor earth cable. I tried connecting a jump lead from the engine to the engine mount, but still no luck. After a quick Google of the forum on my phone, I whipped the N/S headlight out to get to the earth cable mount. The bolt was solid and I managed to snap it trying to undo it, but it did give me access to the end of the earth cable. Putting my jump lead on here and the engine mount, I was suddenly in business when I turned the key. I cable tied the jump lead into place, put everything back, washed my hands and was off to work, only 35 mins late!
Reminder to self - preventitive maintenance is called that for a reason!
Love this forum - I'd have been stuck without the accumulated knowledge on here. Thank you ?
gills
A2OC Donor
Today I...... fitted a new earth cable to the O/S engine mount, after my starting problems earlier in the week. I'll replace the original one when I have the undertray off for an upcoming oil change.
bretti_kivi
Member
Got some bits sorted....next pair of adapters (and yes, I can do these in a considered (and safe!) manner now, with the router table proving invaluable.
also, this is mostly done (and everything is tested):
150A fuse on the way in should be enough. There's a 900.1d (80A fuse) underneath and two 350.2s (60A fuses) on the top. So around 450W RMS for the sub and 350 for the fronts... might need to play, though, as the GZs are three ohm and the minimum is supposed to be 4 when bridged. May need new drivers for this car. Or I just leave it on one channel.
- Bret
also, this is mostly done (and everything is tested):
150A fuse on the way in should be enough. There's a 900.1d (80A fuse) underneath and two 350.2s (60A fuses) on the top. So around 450W RMS for the sub and 350 for the fronts... might need to play, though, as the GZs are three ohm and the minimum is supposed to be 4 when bridged. May need new drivers for this car. Or I just leave it on one channel.
- Bret